Two robust, well-aged Allt-A-Bhainne to ease the pressure


January 2, 2025

WF’s Little Duos, two robust, well-aged Allt-A-Bhainne to ease the pressure

We always love these little names, which we enjoy tasting as often as possible. The name of this fairly modern distillery (1975) continues to appear in all sorts of different spellings (Allt-A-Bhainne, Allt-á-Bhainne, Allt A Bhainne, Allt A'Bhainne, and so on).

(Geograph.co.uk)

And let’s note that even the owners themselves, Chivas Bros./Pernod-Ricard, sometimes write it as Allt’A Bhainne (in their Distillery Reserve Collection), sometimes as Allt-A-Bhainne (the recent OB ‘The Sweetly Peated Single Malt’ packaged like a... bourbon), or even as Allt a’ Bhainne (in the Lost in Time series for TWE). In short, there are almost as many spellings as there are expressions on the market. But let’s not dwell on that—it’s the whisky that matters...

Allt-a-Bhainne 26 yo 1997/2024 (52.1%, The Whisky Blues for MUJO Liquor Store 1st Anniversary, Taiwan, ex-Williamson refill barrel, 236 bottles)

The highly surreal label is amusing and attractive. Let’s see whether the cask’s previous occupant makes its presence felt or not… Colour: pale gold. Nose: this is typical ‘filler’ of high quality in my view, brimming with green apples and pears, plums, damp chalk, paraffin, and sourdough. Perfect in something like Chivas 25 years old (just as an example) and equally perfect as it stands, au naturel. Expected citrus notes emerge later. With water: not particularly peaty, only faintly medicinal, though at this level that’s hardly the exclusive domain of Laphroaig. Bandages join the chalk. Mouth (neat): very beautiful, somewhat in the vein of old Strathisla 100 proof (pale vattings). Very taut, peppery, almost a touch aggressive yet in an elegant way. Bushels of cider apples and a wee glass of fruity eau-de-vie (tutti frutti, right). With water: the pepper grows even stronger. Lemon zest, then outright hints of chilli and salt. Finish: long, a bit ‘Orkney’ if you know what I mean. Lemon pepper and a touch of paraffin dominate this slightly austere aftertaste. Comments: the former occupant of the cask plays a bit of hide-and-seek with the attentive taster. Just as amusing as the label. Excellent malt.
SGP:462 - 87 points.

Allt a Bhainne 31 yo 1992/2024 (48%, The Whisky Cask Company, PX Sherry, 250 bottles)

Allt-A-Bhainne, much like its companion Braeval, seems very comfortable with sherry, based on our modest experiences. Colour: bronzeish gold. Nose: old walnuts and an antique wine cellar, a few mushrooms, then it takes an amusing U-turn towards all kinds of citrus, particularly pink grapefruit, with hints of coconut that feel rather ‘white oak’. The whole ensemble is somewhat reminiscent of the finest white wines from the Basque Country, notably the Irouléguy, a marvellous little appellation that’s relatively unknown (though some would say that’s for the best – the selfish ones!). Mouth: we find that same peppery and slightly combative edge as in the previous dram, only with a well-integrated layer of sherry. I really enjoy both styles. A few notes of bitter walnut liqueur, somewhat in the style of Italian nocino but less sweet. Finish: long, with everything melding beautifully into these delightful bitters. Coriander seeds and Seville oranges linger in the aftertaste. Comments: a pleasantly bitter PX, which we’re very fond of as well.
SGP:461 - 87 points.

Check the index of all Allt-A-Bhainne we've tasted so far