WF’s Little Duos, today the return of Benromach


January 30, 2025

WF’s Little Duos, today the return of Benromach

There’s an intriguing one about high-enzyme malt and last year’s 20 yo by 'Paris'. I suppose the two are going to be very far apart from each other, let’s see…

Benrompach Distillery (Visit Forres)

Benromach 2012/2024 ‘Contrast: High Enzyme’ (46%, OB, first fill bourbon barrel)

A playful series by Benromach, featuring some relatively classic elements (more peat) and some more unusual ones, such as a comparison of kiln-dried and air-dried oak, or this high-enzyme malt, which is usually used to produce grain whisky. This is what is called high-DP malt with a lot of nitrogen (DP = diastatic power), and it’s used to convert the mash into fermentable sugars. Typically, about 10% is added to grains like maize or wheat. It’s worth noting that in Scotland, the use of additional enzymes in other forms is not allowed, though it’s permitted elsewhere. Let’s taste this high-DP malt, which should be sweeter and maybe even a little sugary… Colour: white wine. Nose: indeed, it’s very sweet, evoking bottled apple juice, an enormous pile of marshmallows, and touches of very vanilla-forward oak. It feels quite far removed from those slightly ‘dirty’, robust, and smoky Benromachs we love so much. Mouth: yes, it’s sweet, with plenty of apple again, marzipan, grapefruit, and above all a rather noisy oakiness. A standard Benromach would normally handle such situations brilliantly, but this baby Benromach (if I may) struggles a bit with the wood. It almost reminds one of a young Auchentoshan. Finish: medium length, with a hint of orange and perhaps papaya, then more apple juice and a lingering sensation of wood, almost like sawdust. Comments: not bad at all, really, but perhaps best suited for our friends who already have all the ‘normal’ Benromach expressions on their shelves. And remember, it’s only experimental.
SGP:630 - 82 points.

Benromach 20 yo 2003/2024 (56.7%, LMDW, Artist #14, first fill bourbon barrel, cask #666, 172 bottles)

There were five releases in this dazzling series, of different ages. We had already tasted four of them, all of extremely high quality, but for some unknown reason, this one slipped through my fingers. Let’s rectify that… And do note the rather devilish cask number. Colour: straw. Nose: it immediately reminds me of a malt produced slightly further north along the coast, starting with B. Stunning ashes, coal smoke (they also used to produce coal in the town of Brora), citrus fruits, seawater, shellfish, menthol… To be honest, it’s quite sublime. With water: even more beautiful and even more B. from the north. What kind of sorcery is this? That smoked ham in the background is fantastic, as are those farmyardy and almost stable-like smells. Mouth (neat): fat, oily, very peaty, with splendid bitterness (bitter orange) and a truly beautiful astringency dominated by the zests of all kinds of citrus fruits. A wonderful saline edge too. What’s sure is that it’s not messing about… With water: candied citron and pepper. Finish: very long, very smoky. Ashes and green pepper linger in the aftertaste. Comments: from an especially peated batch, it seems—and as always, those magnificent labels. We love it, though we expected nothing less.
SGP:466 - 91 points.

Check the index of all Benromach we've tasted so far