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| Hi, this is one of our (almost) daily tastings. Santé! |
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October 31, 2025 |
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WF's Little Duos,
today indie Deanston |
There’s always something going on over at Deanston, one of the distilleries that, in recent years, has benefitted most from the overblown trend of premiumisation and from the disappearance of certain brands from independent bottlers, brands which, perhaps, fancied themselves a bit too 'important' at some point. That’s just my personal take, of course, but I believe consumer goodwill is going to become increasingly important, and that modest, friendly brands will end up having the edge over distant and pretentious ones. But that’s just my two pence... |
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Deanston 11 yo 2014/2025 (49.7%, Lady of the Glen, Samhain Series, 1st fill PX quarter cask, cask #300223, 158 bottles) 
A new series of bottlings revolving around tales, in this instance ‘The UFOs of the Falkirk Triangle’. We'll delve into that one later, but first things first, the whisky... Colour: amber. Nose: just a wee bit hot and spirity at first nosing, but massive waves of milk chocolate with raisins and praline fudge soon come rushing in to settle matters agreeably. Increasing amounts of salted butter caramel follow, alongside peanut butter and even millionaire's shortbread. Then roasted peanuts. And caramel-coated hazelnuts. You see where this is going, it's all charmingly nostalgic and sweet-shop-esque... Mouth: rather thick, with the PX and the cask both leading the charge, and I was about to say ‘naturally’, though this time it’s more molasses honey and corn syrup wrapping themselves round your palate, with just flickers of tobacco leaf and a dusting of nutmeg lingering behind. Crème catalane delivers the final persuasive touch – indeed, it’s truly good. And yes, nostalgic again. Finish: long, on vanilla chestnut purée, liquorice, and a wee hint of turmeric and black pepper in the aftertaste. Comments: a tad thick, rich, edging towards the sweet side, yet never quite cloying. Not exactly my preferred style, but I won’t deny it’s ex-cel-lent.
SGP:651 - 85 points. |
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Deanston 27 yo 1997/2025 (50.4%, Decadent Drinks, Decadent Drams, refill hogshead, 251 bottles) 
Deanstons of this rather respectable age aren’t exactly thick on the ground. We’re quite fond of the label too, rumour has it it was designed on a Commodore 64 (just like Whiskyfun, come to think of it). Colour: white wine. Nose: it does feel a bit like a crafty elf had secretly blended Clynelish with Pulteney while everyone else was fast asleep. It’s true we’re more used to Deanstons that carry a heavier cask imprint, but this wee thing is very clean and waxy, on garden white and yellow fruits and fresh white bread with fennel seeds. With water: the fruits begin to overripen and even edge towards a touch of fermentation. And we’re all for it. Mouth (neat): this is really excellent, oily yet tense, with some beautifully subtle bitterness, waxiness once again, the skins of those same fruits (especially apples), and a few drops of eau-de-vie from tiny wild berries – service tree, rowan, holly and the like. A touch of salinity also emerges. With water: water makes it even oilier and fattier, also just a tad mechanical (engine grease comes to mind). The bitterness remains, with some curious meaty touches now creeping in. Finish: medium length, more bitter again, on roasted aubergines and baked artichokes. With a splash of olive oil. Comments: this time, and even if one tries not to let it count for too much, this is entirely my favourite style, I’m afraid.
SGP:462 - 90 points. |
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