WF’s Little Duos, today old Benriach plus apéro


November 13, 2025

WF’s Little Duos, today old Benriach plus apéro

Benriach hasn’t quite been in the spotlight as much lately, but we haven’t forgotten this truly fine distillery. In fact, we’re about to sample a 1976 and a 1966, but first, perhaps an apéritif or two… (AI)

Benriach-Glenlivet 12 yo 2012/2025 (46%, Cadenhead, Original Collection, hogshead)

Finished for two years in Amontillado hogshead, so bespoke seasoned casks since I believe no one’s ever seen hogsheads of amontillado in a proper ‘maturing’, as opposed to ‘seasoning’, bodega. Colour: pale gold. Nose: not bad at all, on honey cream and walnut ice cream, two rather rare specialities that can be superb when well made. Whiffs of cigar boxes, a fair amount of lovage and Maggi. In short, the amontillado does the job. Mouth: very similar to the nose, dominated by walnut and earth, grey pepper, nutmeg, then a touch of chestnut honey that nicely coats the whole. Finish: long, even very long, leaning even more towards walnuts. In the Périgord region of France they make quite a few walnut liqueurs in this style. Comments: I really find this very good, even if it's almost more of an Andalusian product than a Scottish one.
SGP:561 - 85 points.

We did mention a second apéritif, didn’t we?

Benriach 18 yo 2007/2025 (49.8%, Fadandel, refill hogshead, cask #700193, 109 bottles)

This baby is expected to be closer to fresh fruits… Colour: white wine. Nose: yes, it’s perfectly simple and simply perfect, on peanut oil, fresh hay and freshly sliced apple, with a few touches of honey and custard to smooth out the edges. Mouth: watch out, it’s more powerful than it appears, on old plum brandies of various kinds, with a few more drops of honey but above all an honest old chardonnay from southern Burgundy. Simple, precise, very good. Finish: it becomes much less simple in the finish, with barley, numerous herbal infusions, and broad notes of both forest and meadow. There are even some coastal and medicinal touches, though we’ve no idea where those come from. Comments: I enjoy these kinds of whiskies quite a lot, rare as they may be, where the final score just keeps climbing steadily. In this case, 84, 85, 86, 87…
SGP:561 - 88 points.

Let’s move on to the main event (already started above, it’s true) …

Benriach 36 yo 1976/2013 (42.6%, OB, refill hogshead, cask #3042, 173 bottles)

We’ve already tasted quite a few sister casks, all of which were magical or downright supernatural. Colour: gold. Nose: right then, this is more mango than mangoes, more guava than guavas, more banana than bananas, more passion fruit than passion fruits and more … well, you get the idea. An explosion of tropical fruits that would make even the oldest Bushmills or Cooleys turn green with envy, especially as there are also, deep down, hints of Swiss or Savoyard cheese fondue made with neat kirsch (no wine), absolute champions of aromatic expressiveness. Mouth: it’s superb, though a little less defined on the palate, but that’s just nitpicking. Still this avalanche of exotic fruits, still those hints of well-matured Fribourg or Comté (24 months at least), along with some herbal teas of less precise origin. As we said, we’re nitpicking. Finish: very lovely, veering towards liqueurs and eaux-de-vie distilled from the aforementioned fruits. And let it be said, I’ve tried it, distilling those things isn’t easy if you don’t want to end up with… aftershave. Comments: a proper fruit bomb, as we used to say back in the day.
SGP:751 - 91 points.

Right, let’s jump back ten years…

Benriach 42 yo 1966/2008 (43.9%, Signatory Vintage, Cask Strength Collection, hogshead, cask #1019, 175 bottles)

Only Signatory would release such things without fanfare, let alone bagpipes. We didn’t see it coming, but it’s true this was already 16 years ago. No, wait, 17. Colour: gold. Nose: far more restrained than the exuberant 1976, which perhaps saw some new deep-charred wood by the way, so the tropical fruits are indeed present but in a quieter register. Pink bananas, pineapple, mangoes, papayas, then white chocolate with bits of cornflakes and strawberry… I think that’s a deadly sin Lindt themselves offer. There are also a few tiny flowers and herbal teas, also missing in the 1976—assuming they were ever there. Mouth: the beauty of a great Hermitage blanc, something like a Jaboulet Sterimberg from a not-too-warm vintage. I still have a few bottles from 1980 (or is it 1981?) in my cellar, not a great year but the wine is now crystalline and of absolute splendour. Same with this Benriach, almost shy but sublimely elegant. Finish: same story, not very long, slightly fragile, but these salty touches and even those little flat oysters from Finistère are sublime. Comments: a grand whisky that just asks for a little of your attention, it would be a shame to miss it by being distracted. Turn off the telly and the stereo!
SGP:562 - 92 points.

(Merci again, KC)

Check the index of all Benriach we've tasted