We're setting off around the world again


September 12, 2025

We're setting off around the world again

Well, Europe actually. As we were saying, the whole world is making whisky now, and inevitably there's a scissor effect taking place, with demand not necessarily where it was expected, and small lochs being filled here and there. All the more reason to separate the wheat from the chaff. We're setting off from France again, of course...

Breton chouchen, or chouchenn (La Bigoudène)

Armorik ‘Small Batch Chouchenn’ (46%, OB, France, +/-2025)

What an improbable idea! This Breton malt was matured in Breton oak casks (why not) and in casks that had previously held chouchenn, a Breton-style mead with a rather dodgy reputation. I’ve heard it takes three men to drink the stuff: one to do the drinking and two to hold him up—though that old chestnut’s done the rounds with many a dodgy beverage, even some Alsatian varietals… Colour: gold. Nose: one does indeed get an impression of hive, beeswax, pollen, and old firwood, though there’s also a fermentary, yeasty side from the mead, reminiscent of bruised apples left a bit too long… Mouth: truth be told, this isn’t far from malts matured in calvados, though the chouchenn’s influence is kept in check. It’s certainly sweeter than your average Armorik, often excellent as those are. You do find honey, yes. Finish: fairly long, again somewhat sweet, with a noticeable oaky presence. Comments: this is genuinely good fun and rather amusing, but it does feel a little… touristy. We prefer the classic Armoriks!
SGP:641 - 80 points.

Let’s stay in Brittany…

Eddu 21 yo 2003/2025 ‘Graal #2’ (46%, OB, cognac cask, cask #08001, 365 bottles)

They say this may well be the oldest French whisky in existence. The first batch, back in 2022, had been magnificent (WF 88). Let me remind you this is a whisky made from buckwheat. Colour: full gold. Nose: wonderfully soft and pâtissier, with orange blossom, oriental pastries, honey, Corsican citron liqueur, and a definite old triple-sec character, though it never turns heady or overblown. It’s the citrus fruits that lead the dance here. Mouth: really very good, starting rather on herbal spices, with clove, and hints of peppermint, then once again the citrus takes over, this time alongside little hazelnut biscuits. Orange zest, orange blossom honey, white nougat, fresh marzipan… All of this is gentle and really rather perfect. Finish: of good length and always on this soft, honeyed, citrusy sweetness, leaning towards a lovely old cognac from Grande or Petite Champagne, with wee notes of vineyard peaches and rolled liquorice. Comments: gentle yet beautifully composed, extremely seductive. What a fine buckwheat! That said, the individual quirks seem to have mellowed somewhat with age…
SGP:631 - 88 points.

The Nine Springs 3 yo ‘Triple Cask Batch 10’ (46%, OB, Germany, +/-2023)

Produced in Thuringia and matured in American Virgin Oak, ex-Bourbon and ex-Bordeaux casks. At three years of age, that might sound a bit much, no? Unless the casks weren’t used sequentially, but in parallel… That said, previous Nine Springs we’ve tried were really quite good… Colour: pale gold. Nose: not so sure here, this is rather earthy and fermentary, with some apricots coming to the rescue, though there’s also a whiff of old barrel mustiness. Mouth: more agreeable, with touches of raspberry liqueur, mild beer, milk chocolate, spiced cake, and cinnamon… Finish: long and spicy, with some small rubbery notes towards the end. Comments: a touch wobbly in terms of profile and perhaps not entirely coherent, yet it remains of a real good standard.
SGP:651 - 79 points.

Peak Side 7 yo (60%, OB, Switzerland, sherry cask, cask #1, 160 bottles, 2024)

Made by the See-Distillerie in Beckenried, in the canton of Nidwalden, on the shores of Lake Lucerne. A stunning place, that. Colour: deep amber. Nose: a few pencil shaving notes to start, then juicy damson tart and very moist pumpernickel, the whole thing being rather, rather lovely. With water: hey hey! Mouth (neat): powerful of course, but also showing a fresh black bread side we’re totally smitten with. The pumpernickel’s back. Light touches of molasses. With water: clove, nutmeg, star anise, prunes and… pumpernickel. Lots of those dark, faintly fruity breads one finds in Bavaria or Austria, and no doubt also in Nidwalden. Finish: long, again leaning on prunes and that famous bread we shall now stop naming, lest we overdo it. Then more towards candied fruit, with figs and a few currants. A little cumin, liquorice and candied orange right at the end. Comments: a lovely surprise, and to think this was cask number 1. A proper breakfast malt.
SGP:661 - 87 points.

Millstone 2018/2025 ‘Unpeated No.3’ (54.1%, OB for Kirsch Import, Netherlands, Dutch Windmills Collection, 1st fill oloroso sherry butt, cask #18B251, 614 bottles)

We do tend to like what Millstone/Zuidam are doing, let’s just say that straight away. Colour: amber. Nose: naturally, this is lovely, softer than expected, gentler, absolutely rammed with fruitcake, all led by top-grade sultanas of the kind you’d find in the finest Levantine grocers. With water: much the same. Mouth (neat): tarry touches atop a concentrate of those same sultanas we mentioned above. Is this a spirit made of sultanas? We adore sultanas—true Proustian madeleines, our grandmothers used to keep them in little tin boxes as if they were coins of gold. With water: same again, with more honey and orange liqueur. This stuff is sinful. Finish: not tremendously long, but carrying those same superb, timeless (whatever that means) and philosophical (wait, what?) flavours. Comments: a bit Glen Sultana, if you like, but we’re total fans.
SGP:641 - 89 points.

Millstone 2018/2025 ‘Heavily Peated No.5’ (54.1%, OB for Kirsch Import, Netherlands, Dutch Tulip Collection, 1st fill PX sherry butt, cask #17B089, 628 bottles)

This one might require some proper bracing… Colour: full gold. Nose: pencil shavings juice, brand new trainers, fir tar, very ripe plums and Corinth raisins. It’s maddening how pretty it is. With water: not much change, to be honest. We’re not going to mention sultanas again, are we. Mouth (neat): my word this is good. Someone’s dared to smoke orange liqueur with honey and spike it with cumin and juniper, then toss in some milk chocolate. This should be banned—or at least heavily regulated by the European Commission. Heaven forbid… With water: not really an improvement, I’d say water’s a bit superfluous, except it does let a hint of lemon liqueur peek through. Finish: long and rather perfect, even turning slightly salty in the end. Comments: I wouldn’t call this a peat monster, but I do call it excellent.
SGP:654 - 90 points.

Let’s finish a little further north…

Smögen 10 yo 2014/2025 (59.1%, WDC, Sweden, 1st Fill Four Roses barrel, cask #13, 198 bottles)

WDC stands for Wu Dram Clan, a trio of deeply terrifying and barely tolerable individuals—but with an undeniable knack for picking cracking casks of whisky and other spirits. Colour: straw. Nose: peated malt porridge, the kind you might be served for breakfast on Islay. Smells incredibly of sea air—a classic descriptor, yes, but here it REALLY does smell like proper sea air. With water: add some olive oil to the mix. Mouth (neat): straight to the olives. Then mussels, oysters, whelks and razor clams. With water: these people are truly infuriating. But my, this is good. Finish: taster on strike, apologies. After all, we’re French. Comments: might have to file a complaint, this simply shouldn’t be allowed to taste this good.
SGP:466 - 92 points.

Joking aside, Smögen, with very few exceptions, is now even more clearly among Europe’s top ten in my book. While indeed, we’re counting all the British Isles as part of Europe, at least geographically.

Check the index of all world whiskies we've tasted