Whiskies of the world


February 24, 2025

A bit of fun around the world,
hoping for peace

Because there’s so much fun in the world right now, isn’t there? It reminds us of the Coluche-Pratchett theorem, sadly more and more accurate these days “To calculate the IQ of a crowd, take the IQ of the dumbest person and divide it by the number of its members.” Thankfully, this doesn’t apply to whisky lovers, whisky retailers, sommeliers, whisky traders and brokers, nor, of course, the distillers who, in the end, diligently and professionally craft the means for us to forget. Come on, let’s keep our fingers crossed and stick together, starting with France, as usual...

The official version, apparently disputed by a number
of New York bartenders, claims that Donald T. has
always been teetotal. It’s surprising, in this context,
that Elon M.’s AI ‘Grok’ would produce this kind of
image without batting an eyelid, is it not. (Grok).

Moon Harbour ‘Dock 1’ (45.8%, OB, France, +/-2024)

First matured in ex-Sauternes casks, followed by 6 months in casks from Château La Louvière, a well-regarded, slightly budget Pessac-Léognan producer of both reds and whites. It’s not specified, but one imagines these were red wine barriques. Practically everyone uses ex-wine casks nowadays, it’s mad (I know, I keep saying that). Colour: apricot. Nose: pleasant, marked by the wine, with an abundance of fruits and fruity brioches, fruitcakes, fruit jams and fruit sweets, then soft acacia honey and some candied fruitcake. Mouth: the wood from the casks shows more here, with green pepper, a touch of chilli, and quite a bit of kirsch. Some bell pepper too, likely from the cabernet. Finish: of medium length, more herbaceous, with notes of amaro. Comments: wine-sky, but good wine-sky. No surprise really, the distillery is in Bordeaux.
SGP:651 - 83 points.

Off we go, to Mexico... Wondering if the distillery is to the east, on the Gulf of Mexico.

Prohibited Ley Seca 3 yo (40%, OB, Mexico, +/-2024)

Prohibited Ley Seca 3 yo (40%, OB, Mexico, +/-2024)
Presented a bit like all those new rum brands that reference past centuries but didn’t even exist ten years ago. This is 100% malted barley whisky. I’m not sure if, given the name, this youngster has any link to ‘El Ron Prohibido’, a very, very poor rum, also from Mexico. In any case, it appears to be produced by the tequila makers Corralejo, based in Guanajuato, far from the Gulf of Mexico. ‘Ley Seca’ means ‘dry law’, so, prohibition. Colour: gold. Nose: like Abasolo, a Mexican corn whisky we really liked, this Ley Seca exudes aromas of fresh lime and fennel, both bright and lovely, along with some Wulong tea and delicate earthy touches that work rather well. If you push it a bit, you might even find faint hints of agave. Mouth: a bit sweet and liqueur-like but, in this case, the 40% ABV is a blessing. Nougat and citron, but also a fair bit of plain sugar. Lacking in texture though, which is a shame. Finish: short and sweet. Screams for lots of crushed ice. Coffee liqueur. Comments: it’s a pity, the nose was lovely, but the palate tires quickly. Definitely needs ice to cut through the sweetness.
SGP:740 - 65 points.

Bivrost ‘Yggdrasil 2024’ (46%, OB, Norway, sherry and STR, 9,009 bottles, 2024)

Some ‘Arctic Single Malt Whisky’, made by the Aurora Spirit Distillery in Lyngseidet, operating since 2016. Said to be the northernmost whisky distillery in the world, located on the 69th parallel, well above the Arctic Circle. From what I gather, the barley used is local (!), yielding four times less than the usual barley employed in Scotland, according to Dave Broom in Whisky Mag. Myken, which we’ve tried several times and really liked, isn’t all that far away, at least from here. Colour: light gold. Nose: country bread, lemon, weissbeer, poppy seeds and juniper, green apple and smoked fish, with the impact from the wine casks being fairly restrained—thankfully—though a few notes of raisins do emerge. Mouth: an amusing start with ginger beer and a slightly dusty note (spelt?), before heading into a mix of pumpernickel, juniper and speculoos, all moistened with lapsang souchong. Finish: medium length, rather earthy and quite peppery. Comments: a quirky whisky, probably quite young. I find it good and encouraging. Makes you wonder if the warehouse is heated.
SGP:452 - 78 points.

Ki.One ‘Batch 2’ (40%, OB, South Korea, bourbon, +/-2024)

The previous Ki.One we tasted (WF 83) was bottled at 46%, but this one has lost quite a few degrees. It comes from first fill bourbon and virgin American oak, which we always find a bit tricky at lower strengths, so let’s see. Colour: light gold. Nose: oh no, this is nicely honeyed, with mashed banana, eucalyptus, orange liqueur, mint and, most importantly, not too much vanilla. A light touch of ginger liqueur too, echoing that Norwegian we just tasted. Mouth: very unusual, absolutely packed with tinned peaches and apricot liqueur, to the point where there’s almost nothing else. Then again, we do like tinned peaches and apricot liqueur. A very fun whisky with that aged liqueur vibe from the wood. Finish: the vanilla finally bursts through! Loads of it, along with nougat and apricot jam. Comments: spectacular liqu… I mean whisky. I really like this, and what’s more, the wine casks were left well alone this time.
SGP:730 - 83 points.

Braunstein 2010/2023 ‘The Dentist’s Choice’ (50.1%, OB, Denmark, oloroso sherry, cask #170829.317)

I do wonder why so many dentists from the Nordic countries love whisky... Perhaps they give their patients half a litre before getting to work? Thanks, Jesper! Colour: dark red amber. Nose: full-on Rivesaltes, Banyuls, PX, old mosto… It’s all rather over the top, but in the end, it comes together beautifully, almost like a Jackson Pollock. Black earth, old walnuts, dried figs, gingerbread and pipe tobacco in the background. Danish tobacco, of course (Davidoff’s Danish mixture—if I recall correctly). With water: more potting soil and even a bit of garden peat (no smoke), followed by a return of the oloroso, which feels quite ‘cream’ here. Mouth (neat): imagine dipping a slice of pumpernickel into dark honey. Then you sprinkle it with pepper and nutmeg, followed by raisins and little bits of dried apricot. With water: add some grated orange zest, a splash of cumin liqueur, and a few slivers of cured ham. Finish: long, spicier, with more and more candied ginger and clove. Or what we call ‘gingerettes’, a dreadful name but it’s the ginger version of orangettes. A peppery and bitter aftertaste. Comments: I believe the finish is its weaker spot, but everything else is simply superb.
SGP:661 - 87 points.

Smögen 10 yo (57.1%, Decadent Drams, Sweden, 166 bottles, 2024)

Bravo! First matured for 8 years in ex-Madeira hogsheads, then 2 years in a refill hogshead, presumably to coax out more subtle tertiary aromas. Just a guess. It’s the Cognac method—starting with fresh or active casks, then moving to refill—the opposite of what whisky folks usually do, seeking extra flavouring at the end rather than the start of maturation. Yes, I’m repeating myself again, but here we’re feeling fairly confident... Colour: gold. Nose: it’s always the precision that impresses us most with Smögen. You could sum it up in two lines (who said that would be better, eh?) Lemon, lime, sea water, heavily ashy peat, then sauna oils (though we’re not in Finland) and a stunning camphor note over smoked biltong. With water: just one whole, a unified entity, pure Dasein. Mouth (neat): unbelievable sensation of smoky, spicy citrus liqueurs. That’s it. With water: holy moly, the same but with seawater (drawn offshore—just kidding). Finish: long, this time with touches of old walnuts and mustard layered over everything else. Comments: I spent a good fifteen minutes hunting for the Madeira, only to find it right at the end. Honestly, that’s borderline provocative.
SGP:556 - 90 points.

One last one, with someone who could have been very useful right now.

Bimber ‘Winston the Statesman’ (57.9%, OB, England, Shoulders of Giants, Spanish oloroso, cask #473, 302 bottles, 2024)

With Sir Winston, it couldn’t possibly be ex-bourbon, could it? Maybe a champagne cask? Didn’t he say, "In victory I deserve it; in defeat, I need it," echoing Napoleon, according to the scholars? Colour: deep gold. Nose: it kicks off boldly with chocolate, prunes, toffee, then a rather rustic armagnac, like a classic Ténarèze. A powdery side too, with hints of musk (apologies) and even a touch of Chanel N°5. With water: it gets even better, bursting with all sorts of raisins and dried figs. Mouth (neat): very powerful, very spicy, loaded with bay leaves and more toffee, followed by dried currants and toasted pecans. The whole thing leans more and more towards deep roasting. With water: once again, water works wonders here. A raisin curry. Finish: long, following the same flavour profile. Comments: a Churchill that loves water—who would’ve thought? Must’ve been a very ‘wet’ sherry cask.
SGP:651 - 88 points.

Whisky, peace, love and understanding!

Check the index of all whiskies of the world we've tasted so far

The Port Charlotte Case, Part 4

We're still very far from the end...

Port Charlotte 21 yo 2003/2024 (53.4%, The Finest Malts, City Landmarks, bourbon barrel, cask #664)

Colour: straw. Nose: utterly perfect, the quintessential 2003 profile, identical to the sublime Acla Selection bottling we sampled just two days ago. Upon verification, the cask number is indeed the same, confirming it as the very same immaculate Port Charlotte. Magnificent purity... simply flawless. Mouth: same comments apply—it’s a Port Charlotte of remarkable precision. And, of course, it is perfect. Finish: likewise. Comments: one might be tempted to compare labels, but let’s refrain this time. A grand and impeccable PC, every bit as phenomenal as expected, that’s all.
SGP:566 - 91 points.

Port Charlotte 14 yo 2001/2016 (46%, The Cooper’s Choice, bourbon cask, cask #1016, 350 bottles)

The proprietors of The Cooper’s Choice, The Vintage Malt Whisky Co, have already given us many superb peated Islay whiskies, including some remarkable PE and CI… and even some L*******n. Colour: pale white wine. Nose: this time, we begin with carbolineum and a medley of assorted shellfish, before moving on to almond milk, shoe polish, and a touch of mezcal. Impeccable. Mouth: intensely saline and heavily peated on the palate, almost like taking a cigar from the wrong end. But fear not—the lemons and apples arrive swiftly to set things right. The lower strength, compared to a CS, never feels like an issue. Finish: long, still packed with ash. Think Lapsang Souchong forgotten in the teapot, followed by limoncello and a salty tang in the aftertaste. Comments: very impressive. They truly nailed their peated whisky on the first attempt at Bruichladdich.
SGP:457 - 88 points.

Let’s remember that even the very first Bruichladdichs were (rather lightly) peated in 2001, before they decided to go for unpeated.

Port Charlotte 20 yo 2001/2021 (54.9%, Maltbarn, bourbon cask, 135 bottles)

Colour: white wine. Nose: metallic notes this time, more on aluminium utensils before the arrival of metal polish, naturally, along with lemon and grapefruit. Plenty of chalk and damp clay. With water: more floral now, with jasmine and chalk. Mouth (neat): beautifully precise, ashy, peppery, salty, and lemony. Hints of bacon and smoked fish, then surprisingly, some candied sugar notes. With water: edging towards the style of Islay’s east coast, with crab, oysters, and simply fresh-pressed apple juice. Finish: long, fresh, and elegant, highlighting the familiar elements of the finest mid-aged peated malts. Comments: very refined, this PC feels a touch rounder—possibly due to a rather active cask after all.
SGP:656 - 89 points.

Port Charlotte 19 yo 2004/2024 (59.1%, Rest & Be Thankful, LMDW Foundation, Rare Collection, oloroso sherry hogshead, cask #R082580014)

We’re expecting a little monster here… Colour: dark amber. Nose: following in the footsteps of the young 2003 Blackadder, meaning a peat-and-sherry combo that works as seamlessly as Jagger & Richards in the Exile era. I know, and Mick Taylor. And the controversies involving Jagger. Oh forget, only pre-boomer stuff. Smoked Mars bar, toffees, maple syrup, hot chocolate, used engine oil, cigars, and a touch of miso. No clashes, it’s unstoppable. With water: more fresh leather, a hint of stable, aged meats, and wildly raw chocolate. Mouth (neat): a whisper of leather and tobacco, then orange liqueurs and chocolates filled with mint cream. Mint cream chocolates, absolutely lethal. Then more and more black pepper. With water: the tobacco and pepper return, alongside a touch of chicken broth. Finish: long, meaty, chocolatey, almost stubborn. Quite bittersweet overall. Comments: a monster squared (peat monster meets sherry monster).
SGP:576 - 90 points.

Port Charlotte 16 yo 2006/2023 ‘Rock’ndaal’ (50%, OB, Feis Ile 2023, Refill Wine and Sherry butt, 2500 bottles)

Colour: gold. Nose: not vinous at all—on the contrary, fresh fir wood, smoked oils (sesame), a touch of Chardonnay, and hints of mead. All beautifully balanced. With water: fresh bread dough and orange cake, hurray! Mouth (neat): glory to refill casks! There are indeed touches of strawberry yogurt and blood orange, but the commanding forces remain lemony, peaty, peppery, and saline throughout. With water: very good, well-balanced, almost easy. The next best thing after a refill bourbon. Finish: not eternal, but fresh and typical. Raspberry chocolate ganache in the aftertaste. Comments: we were a little wary upon seeing the word ‘wine,’ but then we saw ‘refill.’ A lovely composition that has preserved the distillate.
SGP:656 - 87 points.

We estimate that there are still about 25 PCs to follow up on. Is that alright with you?

Check the index of all Port Charlotte we've tasted so far