A quartet of magnificent Pulteneys


January 20, 2026

A quartet of magnificent Pulteneys (three recent and one old)

According to our modest experience and, ultimately, our conclusion, Pulteney—despite being one of the ‘kings of reflux’—turns out to offer a rather delicate malt despite its coastal character, which can make it somewhat fragile when exposed to casks that are too active or heavily wine-influenced (or flavoured with something else). But when that’s not the case, it can in some respects resemble its southern neighbour—you know, the distillery that starts with a C and ends with a Y. At times, it even becomes sumptuous, whether in very young expressions or extremely old ones, like the official 38-year-old released for China last year. So then, let’s see what we have today...

(Old Pulteney)

Pulteney 17 yo 2008/2025 (49.8%, Dràm Mor, 1st fill Maker’s Mark finish, cask #Z082, 295 bottles)

Could a finishing in a first fill bourbon barrel help a Scotch whisky dodge (a small) part of those American import tariffs? You’ll probably tell me I’m dreaming, or even raving mad… Colour: apricot, which is rather unusual. Nose: the nose is just as unusual, with a surprisingly vinous character for an ex-bourbon cask. Something of a blend of Sauternes, late-harvest gewurztraminer, honey and apricot liqueur indeed. Definitely apricots... Still, the whole is elegant, very ripe, with even hints of mashed banana and touches of mango peeking through later on. So many riddles! Mouth: swift about-turn back to bourbon territory, and all things coastal and saline, plus lightly salted orange drizzled with a drop of olive oil. The whole remains rather surprising. Finish: rather long, gradually shifting from salted fruits to peppermint tea, then to bitter orange. Comments: what an unusual Pulteney! I’m very fond of it, but blind, it would surely lead you astray.
SGP:551 - 87 points.

Pulteney 23 yo 2002/2025 (57.2%, Decadent Drams, refill barrel, 176 bottles)

Lovely label, looks a bit like… hang on, Greenland? Is that meant to be some sort of statement? Colour: gold. Nose: a nose that confirms the 2008 was indeed ‘different’, here we’re back on a clean, almost surgical line, with vanilla pod and whiffs of sea air, flint, and crushed oyster shells. Hard to imagine anything more ‘terroir’, if you see what I mean. With water: castor oil and metal polish begin to show. Mouth (neat): even cleaner, a mix of bread dough, lemon juice, sea water and green pepper. This could easily replace Tabasco on a platter of forty-eight oysters. Or six. With water: I don’t think there’s much to add, perhaps just a drop of pepper liqueur and maybe a faint touch of peat smoke. Finish: long, more bitter, perhaps simpler. Comments: a true Pulteney au naturel. Adorable and a little more full-bodied than expected after all.
SGP:452 - 89 points.

Pulteney 25 yo 2000/2025 (53.9%, Casky’s Finest Selection and The Antelope, refill barrel, cask #100239)

Careful now, we know these small batches from 2000 can be stratospheric... Colour: gold. Nose: mango, sea water, chalk, fresh paint and clams. That’s it, comrade. With water: add a few touches of shiitake. Mouth (neat): everything is spot on here, the edge, the salinity, the earthiness, the citrus, the medicinal aspects (eucalyptus, camphor), and of course the shellfish, oysters leading the charge. I don’t think one can do much better in Wick. With water: pepper joins in, the rest stands firm. Finish: long, beautifully bitter. Comments: I offer my formal apologies to all concerned parties for the brevity of this tasting note. Pulteney in hi-def.
SGP:452 - 92 points.

Let’s finish with a former glory…

Old Pulteney 1970/1988 (56%, Sestante, 75cl)

I don’t believe the distillation regime at Pulteney has changed all that much since 1970. In any case, last time I was in Wick, the whole charming little town looked as if it had been frozen in 1970, and if memory serves, they were playing Slade on the jukebox. Or was it Nazareth? Anyway, these 1970s are almost certainly G&M stock. Colour: straw. Nose: blimey, it chats with the 2000 like two old army mates, their profiles remarkably close, though this 1970 seems a little fatter and more oily (mineral oil). Perhaps a purifier on/off affair, like at Ardbeg. Touches of mutton suet and linseed oil. With water: limestone, chalk, marl and rain-soaked clay. Mouth (neat): magnificent in its fat, salty, very mineral side, with a bit more citrus this time, one can’t help but think of our friends the limoncellos. With water: a few ultra-ripe bergamots and plums add a touch of sweetness to this marvellous ensemble. Finish: long, on precisely the same notes, the whole simply lingers on… There is just, as is often the case, a little more pepper on the aftertaste, along with a faint fizzy note (ginger tonic). Comments: it would be rather vulgar to try to rank this against the 2000.
SGP:551 - 92 points.

Check the index of all Old Pulteney we've tasted