A wee trio of Ardbeg


October 6, 2026

A wee trio of Ardbeg

Because it was high time we tasted the new official 15-year-old, to which we’ll add two independents, one very recent, the other rather very old. Does that sound like a nice little line-up?

(Early 1990s range including the former 15 yo - WF Archive)

Ardbeg 15 yo ‘Trudernish’ (48.8%, OB, 2026)

Here is ‘A Smoky Dram of Creamy Harmony’ matured in bourbon, new charred oak and oloroso sherry casks. Trudernish is a small hamlet in the south of Islay, and a ‘story’ that’s rather less far-fetched than some others, it has to be said. We quite like all this… Colour: white wine. Nose: this is typical Ardbeg, fresh, precise, and very much in the vein of the Ten that we like so much at WF. Slightly resinous and tarry peat, but never excessively so, with light touches of capers and olives, a few oysters that happened to be passing by, and, indeed, a sense of harmony, or even fullness, without being too ‘creamy’. Good news, if you ask me. Mouth: this time there are a few touches of bergamot and even pineapple, typical of deep-charred wood, but once again the balance has been preserved and all the maritime character remains. Including the oysters, seaweed and lemons. Finish: medium in length but crystal-clear in profile, and above all refreshing. A lovely duo of salted mint and salted aniseed in the aftertaste. Comments: the oloroso is anecdotal. Somewhere along the way, we’re reminded of the old ten and the very rare old fifteen from more than thirty years ago. Careful, this goes down all too easily, so it’s a little dangerous.
SGP:566 - 88 points.

Speaking of oloroso…

Ardbeg 17 yo 2008/2026 (57.2%, Murray McDavid, Mission Gold, oloroso sherry butt, 149 bottles)

MMcD have had some cracking Ardbegs in the past, so we’re all ears. So to speak… Colour: gold. Nose: the oloroso isn’t dominating, that’s the first bit of good news. There are certainly walnuts and tobacco, even little touches of black truffle, but in the end, and upon reflection, it moves increasingly towards smoked and grilled bacon, as well as artichoke and aubergine. It’s rather intriguing and feels a little like a seaside barbecue, but it’s truly charming. With water: a few cheesy touches (Stilton) and some kelp. Mouth (neat): massive. Orange zest, black pepper, juniper, brine, winkles and walnut wine. More or less… With water: everything falls back into line a little, and we almost regret that. Oysters, light Ardbeggian tar, lemons, gentian… Finish: long, on a duet of smoked lemon and seawater. Lime in the aftertaste, now that’s perfect. Comments: in the old days, what we looked for from the independents were variations, versions that strayed quite markedly from the official bottlings. We’re certainly getting that here, much to our delight. It could hardly be more different from the ‘Trudernish’, and yet for us the level is similar. A very fine bottle indeed.
SGP:567 - 88 points.

We did say an old one, didn’t we?

Ardbeg 1974/1988 (55.1%, Scotch Malt Whisky Society, #33.8)

These babies are getting increasingly rare, and these tasting notes, consequently, increasingly useless. But that doesn’t bother us, should it? Of course, 1974 means ‘Provenance’, and ‘Provenance’ means one of the true Hyperardbegs. I know what I mean… Colour: pale gold. Nose: star early 1970s ‘beg, little cask influence, fully distillate-driven, 100% crystal-clear line, peat and tar, then wax and lemons, plus two or three shellfish. Let’s say cockles, clams and razor clams (what utter nonsense, S.!) With water: but who on earth first had the mad idea of taking lemons, smoking them, then putting them in brine? Mouth (neat): this is so good, fresh, precise, taut, citrusy, tarry, saline, with this incredible smoky & salty daiquiri side. It’s the combination of thickness and freshness that is the most impressive of all. With water: I give up, this is just too good. Finish: I said I give up, OK? Comments: half a day in the fridge (I know, I know) then with some absolutely top-notch caviar. With blinis, naturally. And friends.
SGP:467 - 94 points.

(Thank you, Angus!)

Check the index of all Ardbeg we've tasted