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| Hi, this is one of our (almost) daily tastings. Santé! |
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June 1, 2026 |
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The Time Warp Sessions,
Ardbeg under different names, and 30 years apart |
We had the utterly disproportionate ambition, as we’d done a few times in the past, of holding “remote Feis Ile” sessions on WF, but alas, the constraints of everyday life got the better of us this year. Still, that doesn’t stop us from enjoying another little Ardbeg duo. Say, 2003 versus 1973. Thirty years apart is quite something… |
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In front of the old RAF military target (or was it the Royal Navy?) that we discovered in the middle of Islay about twenty years ago. I don’t know whether it’s still there, but in some respects it’s a little reminiscent of certain Ardbegs. Even of the brand's rather military colours! |
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Kildalton 22 yo 2003/2025 (53.3%, The Whisky Blues and PK Spirits, 2nd fill bourbon barrel, 249 bottles) 
Everyone knows Kildalton is Ardbeg, is it not. Colour: gold. Nose: all the glory of a second fill cask, allowing this baby to remain both mature and extremely close to the DNA of the distillate and distillery, namely an unstoppable combination of antiseptic and tar to start with, followed by wet chalk and beach sand. Not especially maritime despite that, at least for now. The very medicinal side would almost make you dab it onto any tiny wound that might occur. While opening an Islay oyster, for example. With water: a few small yellow citrus fruits emerge, alongside a few shellfish. Periwinkles, for example. Mouth (neat): more Ardbeggian than Ardbeg itself, powerful, oily, hugely tarry, with touches of acetone before salt gradually takes control. With water: magnificent tarry and rubbery bitterness, with a salty smoke that once again recalls peat-smoked kippers. There’s also a very amusing little ‘margarita’ side, the salt doing all the work there. Finish: long, remaining both fresh and full-bodied at the same time. And always that salted tar quality in the aftertaste. Comments: a pure Ardbeg for Ardbeggites, of which we are naturally part. All this with a thought for Stuart Thomson.
SGP:457 - 90 points. |
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Ardbeg 1973/1992 (56.1%, Scotch Malt Whisky Society, #33.14)
We had already tasted a 1973 at the end of April, a superb Duthie’s that reached WF 94. In any case, 1973 is one of Ardbeg’s great vintages, from that magical 1972-1973-1974-1975-1976-1977 series. Colour: gold. Nose: this is something else again, hugely marked by camphor, tar and new tyres, but also kumquats and bergamot, then seaweed of every imaginable kind, alongside those famous Wellington boots in at least size EU 45 and plenty of Barbour grease. Not forgetting eucalyptus. Magnificent. With water: green pepper, tiger balm, oysters and tar. Mouth (neat): much more lemony and medicinal than the 2003, therefore sharper, although admittedly it is three years younger. A little feeling of Provençal herbs on the barbecue, especially rosemary, drenched in lemon juice. With water: rather like chewing on bandages at first, then smoked lemon tart. Finish: long, even more lemony still, yet never losing the corpulence of these vintages. Comments: perhaps a little less spectacular than the RW Duthie for Samaroli from late April, but still at an extremely high level.
SGP:566 – 93 points. |
While we’re at it, a little bonus… |
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An Islay Kildalton Distillery 22 yo 2003/2026 (53.4%, Abyss & HNWS, Synergy Collection, bourbon barrel, cask #118, 251 bottles)
A joint bottling for Hong Kong and Taiwan, now that is rather pleasing, isn’t it. In any case, we are expecting something in the same vein as the Whisky Blues. Colour: gold. Nose: naturally, it’s close, just a little fatter, a little fruitier, yet every bit as medicinal. Everything else is there too, chalk, antiseptic, seawater, tar, riesling, champagne, lime and clay… With water: it becomes more fermentary and almost faintly gamey, while also showing plenty of paraffin and linseed oil. Rollmops as well. Mouth (neat): what class. Very fat indeed, almost thick and oily, although all of that is perfectly balanced by salted citrus fruits, Italian-style of course. With water: still enormously thick, almost liqueur-like despite the absence of sugars, with more and more pepper and even chilli emerging. Finish: very long and properly peppery by now. No idea where that comes from, but we absolutely adore this almost Sichuan-like side. The aftertaste becomes much more medicinal once again. Comments: a very different Ardbeg in the end, but difference is the spice of life, isn’t it.
SGP:467 - 90 points. |
Let’s not stop there, let’s have a younger one as well. But I promise, this will be the last for today. We’re staying in Asia, and also a little in the south of France… |
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Ardbeg 15 yo 2009/2025 (54.5%, Lucky Choice & Mateo Art, first fill Rivesaltes barrique, cask #90341, 90 bottles) 
An absolutely brilliant label, although the combination of Ardbeg and Rivesaltes does sound rather more frightening, so let’s see… Colour: full gold. Nose: very much in a PX or even moscatel style, fruity, with dried apricots, quince and pear liqueur, tonnes of sultanas and, for now, rather little Ardbegness, although water may well change that… With water: not quite as much as expected… There is, however, an amusing lobster à l’armorican side, or even bisque (do you remember the Soup Nazi from Seinfeld?) Mouth (neat): it works very well on the palate, although the very sweet wine does seem to push the Ardbeg slightly in the direction of some Ledaig. Truly. Dried fruits and quite a lot of pepper. With water: genuinely better now, with a lovely sweet, salty and sour profile. Finish: long, on salted dried fruits splashed with a little balsamic vinegar. Comments: the sweet wine has clearly softened the distillate, and although we were a little worried at first, everything ended very nicely for this charming little winesky.
SGP:655 - 85 points. |
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