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| Hi, this is one of our (almost) daily tastings. Santé! |
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July 20, 2026 |
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WF's Little Duos,
today Burnside
versus Sideburn |
There seem to be quite a few old teaspooned Balvenies around at the moment, and it's probably best not to let ourselves fall too far behind, especially as we've already tasted some truly magnificent Balvenies from these vintages. Most were absolutely packed with oranges, quinces and mirabelles, unless they were dominated by sherry or some rather odd casks, though that sort of thing wasn't really done back then anyway. Naturally, one can't rule out a more recent re-racking, but in these very cases, we're inclined to trust these indies… It's worth noting that we tasted another 35-year-old 1989 from Archive last month, and that it was excellent (WF 90). |
A Balvenie enthusiast, circa 1970. |
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Teaspooned Side-Burn 35 yo 1989/2025 (51.1%, Thompson Bros., for Dornoch Castle, refill wood, cask #Bal.001, 333 bottles) 
Colour: chardonnay. Nose: forget it, this baby is exactly what we were expecting (forgive this outburst of immodesty), packed with oranges, quinces and mirabelles, plus an extra helping of pink grapefruit, light vanilla and the traditional slightly damp chalk. Truth be told, it almost brings to mind a modern Champagne from one of those young, rather cutting-edge growers. With water: the fruit recedes a little, making way for citrus peels and touches of lanolin. We are perfectly happy with that. Mouth (neat): magnificent citrus fruits, blood oranges, pink grapefruits, then chalk and a well-mannered green pepper. Splendid tension, an almost vertical profile, which is perhaps not quite as Balvenie as one might have expected. With water: this time the water does not diminish the fruit, quite the opposite, it amplifies it, and here we are with quince and mirabelle jam, lifted by orange zests and a few little roots. Finish: long, with the profile holding steady throughout, only the signature shifting a little more towards grapefruit. Perhaps also a small cherry, and almost certainly a touch of bergamot. Comments: we are hardly going to pretend this came as a surprise.
SGP:651 - 90 points. |
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Burnside 35 yo 1989/2025 (51.6%, Oxhead Whisky & Lucky Choice, Dram-addicts, hogshead, cask #577, 136 bottles)
Colour: pale gold. Nose: this too was entirely to be expected, we are very close indeed, this baby simply showing a little more richness and oiliness, with touches of pollen and beeswax, followed by slightly more herbal notes. With water: much the same impressions. Mouth (neat): we are even closer to the previous one here, only this time a shade more lemony and nervier, if this were Champagne it would almost be a brut nature (zero dosage). With water: little lemon sweets and a faint impression of a luxury Scottish mojito. It is remarkably lively for its age, despite touches of resin, propolis and even a little fatty soap appearing along the way. Everything is absolutely fine, indeed that is perfect in this context. Finish: long, razor-sharp, lively and refreshing, almost dangerously so when the weather is very hot. But we are hardly going to rinse our throats with 35-year-old Balvenie, are we! Comments: in any case, yet another example of the beauty that comes from combining a great distillate, proper age and almost-inactive casks. A winning combination, provided the bottlers know how and have the means to be patient.
SGP:651 - 90 points. |
In short, they're virtually identical twins today, but then again, that's exactly what we were expecting. |
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