Caol Ila in Utter Chaos, Part 2/4


January 15, 2026

Caol Ila in Utter Chaos, Part 2/4

Without further ado, let’s pick up where we left off yesterday …

(Caol Ila
/Diageo)

Caol Ila 8 yo (48%, Wilson & Morgan, Quercus Alba, 2024)

An amusing mention of Quercus alba, white oak, in other words, American oak, which must represent around 90% of the wood used for whisky maturation in Scotland, whether ex-bourbon or ex-sherry. Colour: white wine. Nose: immediate wafts of iodine tincture, then more classic Caol Ila notes, sea water and kelp, with a rather elegant and restrained smoke. A couple of oysters and an old tin of white paint forgotten in a Scottish warehouse. Mouth: chiselled, smoky, lemony and saline, ultra-classic. Excellent. Finish: the usual and rather irresistible combo of ashes, lemon juice and brine. Comments: this young bairn gets the job done to perfection. In fact, the peat is fairly punchy for a Caol Ila.
SGP:557 - 87 points.

Caol Ila 17 yo 2007/2024 (49%, Cut Your Wolf Loose, refill bourbon hogshead, 285 bottles)

Everything feels nicely aligned here. Colour: pale gold. Nose: a little lighter and less peaty than the 8-year-old, starting off on petrichor and damp hay smoke, then warm bread dough. In the background, an empty seafood platter, post-meal. Mouth: this shifts into more classic territory, smokier, drier, more ‘fino’, with plenty of ashes, green walnut, and the expected oysters. There’s also a touch of chlorophyll. Finish: fairly long, quite singular, with something akin to smoky chlorophyll syrup, should such a thing exist. A whisper of Maggi and mint lingers in the aftertaste. Comments: more singular than the young Wilson & Morgan, and just as much to my liking.
SGP:456 - 87 points.

Caol Ila 8 yo 2016/2025 (44.3%, Jean Boyer, Gifted Stills of Scotland, barrel, 653 bottles)

A house we’ve always held in high regard, they were instrumental in introducing malt to France under the Auxil label. Colour: white wine. Nose: the fruitiest so far, with immediate but subtle notes of pineapple and mango that marry well with CI’s trademark coastal freshness. Then grapefruit, ashes and oysters take over, followed by seaweed. Mouth: saltier, more 'sea water', lively yet disarmingly charming, lemony, with notes of kippers but dominated by ash. Delightful. Finish: a light duet of liquorice wood and gentian, not unusual for this profile. Good length and excellent freshness. Comments: yet again, a slightly different profile, but overall quality remains consistent, meaning excellent.
SGP:566 - 87 points.

Right then, something even younger, though in our modest experience, peat easily adds the equivalent of five extra years in terms of perceived maturity. So 10 = 15, if you like.

Caol Ila 2017/2024 (46%, Signatory Vintage for Intercaves, 2nd fill Barbaresco finish, cask #67583)

When it comes to red wine finishes, we tend to think second fill is better than first fill. And perhaps third fill better still, but let’s not stir up too much trouble… Colour: pale gold, with the faintest salmon hue, nearly invisible. Nose: the wine influence is certainly there but remains discreet, some lingonberries perhaps. Otherwise, a young and flawless Caol Ila in classic form. But it’s the palate that really matters in this kind of setup… Mouth: similar impression, a slightly grippy vinosity appears, yet the balance of ashes and seawater isn’t disturbed. Let’s just say we’ve moved from grapefruit to pink grapefruit. Perhaps… Finish: good length, more saline, but without slipping into any sweet-salty territory. Comments: I still prefer the naked versions, but I must admit this little one was put together with care, and it’s very good indeed.
SGP:566 - 84 points.

Caol Ila 12 yo 2010/2023 (56.4%, Whisky Age, refill barrel, cask #319311, 209 bottles)

True artists behind these labels, cooler than Mr Grok, really. Here it’s MasonYin, worth a search. Colour: white wine. Nose: perhaps it’s the higher strength, but this one feels much oilier and fatter than the others, pistachio oil, olive oil, before moving on to roots, carrots, seaweed, and even winkles. With water: penetrating now, penetrating oil, motor oil, then chalk and virgin wool. Mouth (neat): some rather unusual petroly notes for CI, paraffin, damp cardboard… I reckon water will sort that out. With water: still a bit of that cardboardy and even faintly cologne-y edge, otherwise we’re back on ashes and seawater. Finish: long, briny, almost slightly vinegary. And yes, still a touch of wet cardboard. Comments: a rather unusual cask, this isn’t your textbook ultra-clean Caol Ila. But it’s still very good.
SGP:565 - 84 points.

Caol Ila 1984/2000 (59.8%, Gordon & MacPhail, CASK, cask #6098-6101)

The 1984s haven’t always been magical under the Connoisseurs Choice label, but this one might be a different beast. Colour: chardonnay. Nose: immaculate, candle wax, ashes, sea water and shellfish. What’s lacking here, compared to younger vintages, is citrus. On the other hand, there’s plenty of mercurochrome so far. With water: as is often the case with G&M at cask strength, the whisky turns quite cloudy once diluted. The nose becomes gorgeous, fresh paint, mostly. Mouth (neat): this time it’s apples and lemons, plus peppered olives. Rather fatty, and absolutely splendid. With water: fantastic, and still very powerful at around 45% vol., our favourite reduction level. Cough syrup, but the kind that would cure much more than a cold. Finish: very long, with a pinch of chilli pepper added to that syrupy mix. Slight camphor in the aftertaste. Comments: loads going on here, this is simply excellent.
SGP:567 - 90 points.

Since we’re in 1984…

Caol Ila 1984/1996 (50%, Moon Import, Dovr-Toutes-Mares)

We have always wondered what on earth that series’ name was supposed to mean. Now that we’ve got ChatGPT, we dared to ask, and it turns out even it hasn’t got a clue. For once, no made-up answers. Likely something to do with ancient geography, going by the labels, but certainly not Latin. Colour: white wine. Nose: here comes the beeswax and paraffin, overripe apples, whelks and clams, with very soft, almost vanishing peat. With water: old wax polish and the interior of a vintage car, not necessarily Italian, with freshly polished leather seats. Mouth (neat): indeed, it’s rounder, more honeyed and waxier than the G&M, though still with plenty of grip. Moules mariniere and cédrat liqueur. With water: you’d never guess it was just twelve years old, ashes, brine, olives and maritime smoke return. The wax has almost faded. Almost. Finish: fairly long, on the classic trio of oysters, ashes and lemon. The beeswax comes back in the aftertaste. Comments: excellent stuff, I’m quite sure the 29 years in bottle have done it a world of good.
SGP:556 - 90 points.

Let’s get back to the young ones…

Caol Ila 17 yo 2008/2025 (57.5%, Fadandel, ex-bourbon quarter cask, cask #314559)

The size of a quarter cask can vary depending on whether it's a quarter of a barrel, a butt, or something else entirely. Laphroaig’s quarter casks, for instance, hold around 130 litres, not exactly a quarter of an ASB. So yes, it’s a bit messy… Colour: full gold. Nose: gentle wafts of menthol, clearly a more active cask, but balance hasn’t been compromised in the slightest. Some rubber and seaweed. With water: phew, we were worried, but while the wood is very present, the distillate holds its ground. At first, it feels like someone smoking a Kool menthol cigarette. Not in Europe though, apparently that’s been banned since 2020, so I’ve just learnt. Mouth (neat): creamy, courtesy of the cask. Beyond that, ashes, pepper, curry, oyster, lemon… With water: this is where it becomes more classic, even if the wood remains prominent. Brine, pepper, turmeric, ashes and so on. Finish: very long and even spicier. Comments: perhaps not the ideal dram to follow those sublime 1984s from G&M and Moon, but didn’t we agree to taste things at random?
SGP:567 - 85 points.

Port Askaig 16 yo 2008/2025 (54.2%, Elixir Distillers for LMDW Itinéraires)

Yesterday’s bottling for Germany leaned into new or activated oak, this one may prove quite different. Colour: gold. Nose: ultra-precise, almost skeletal but in the best possible way, so p.r.e.c.i.s.e. Like dousing a fire in a limestone hearth with seawater. With water: more classically coastal now, new wool jumper and wafts of boot polish. Mouth (neat): much more texture here, and while the oak clearly had its say, the lemon crème with green pepper and paprika feels rather refined. With water: it finds balance, though the wood remains active, lemon tart, heavily steeped green tea, ginger, cigar ashes. Finish: long, always dancing between active wood and saline, ashy freshness. A whisper of coconut on the aftertaste, even a touch of Thai broth. Comments: excellent, very modern, focused, and full of intent.
SGP:666 - 86 points.

I think we’re at nine, we did say ten at a time, so just one more for today. Maybe another old one?

Caol Ila 24 yo 1974/1998 (53.3%, Scotch Malt Whisky Society, #53.32, 325 bottles)

One of the early fillings from the newly rebuilt Caol Ila distillery, which had just emerged from a complete reconstruction. Strangely, many 1974s popped up among the independents, but then again the distillery’s production capacity had just been significantly increased. Colour: pale gold. Nose: oh yes, manzanilla, lemon juice, green walnut, smoked salmon, vin jaune, a touch of curry, a smidgen of mustard, it’s all eminently coherent. With water: just add two or three drops of mercurochrome. Mouth (neat): perfect, creamy, packed with citrus and ashes. The precision is so sharp it’s almost embarrassing. With water: it shifts gears entirely, luminous salinity, eucalyptus, and a medley of ashes in all styles. Pine, charcoal, tobacco, beech, hay… Finish: long, salty and bitter in the most beautiful way. Bark, roots… Only the aftertaste feels slightly raspy and a touch coarse. Comments: as the saying goes, here’s a whisky that had plenty to say, and said it with firm conviction.
SGP:566 - 91 points.

We’ll try to taste some Caol Ila from the old distillery starting tomorrow. For now, good night.

(Thank you again, KC and Tom)

Check the index of all Caol Ila we've tasted