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| Hi, this is one of our (almost) daily tastings. Santé! |
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June 10, 2026 |
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The Time Warp Sessions,
today Glenlochy 29 vs 43 yo
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Glenlochy is another of those distilleries whose closure, nearly forty-five years later, is increasingly bitterly lamented by whisky enthusiasts, given the quality of the last remaining bottlings that can still be found and enjoyed here and there. Let us remember that the distillery was part of the wave of closures in 1983 and was subsequently largely demolished during the 1990s. Yet, alongside Ben Nevis, it was one of the stars of Fort William. Only fruitier… |
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Glenlochy 29 yo 1970/2000 (57.2%, Signatory Vintage ‘Silent Stills’, cask #3359, 248 bottles) 
Ah, what an admirable series this was from Signatory and, unlike the little fragments of old wood slipped into certain Blackadder bottles, this one came with a charming miniature bung decorated in the distillery’s colours (and a miniature bottle too). Colour: chardonnay. Nose: Angus had already detected a certain Clynelishness in this one, and I quite agree, although I might even add a touch of Bennevissness, with leather, tobacco, black pepper, peaches in syrup, melted candle wax, a few dandelions... It all evokes the countryside in the most elegant fashion, rather in the style of Country Life. Right. With water: fresh mint now emerges, alongside hints of liquorice wood and wafts of paraffin. Mouth (neat): powerful, and above all remarkably fruity on the palate. Imagine a vast bowl of fruit salad in syrup, liberally sprinkled with freshly ground black pepper and served alongside a few lit church candles. Or something along those lines. With water: as so often, the citrus fruits step forward, particularly lemons and grapefruits, generously dusted with black pepper. As is often the case, pepper works wonders with fruit, as strawberry lovers have long known. Finish: long, becoming increasingly Bennevissian with time, recalling the 1996s, albeit in a less exotic register. Comments: a magnificent bottle, deeply old-school yet simultaneously possessed of a certain modernity. In other words, not remotely ‘retro’. P=2 neatly captures that old-school/BN character.
SGP:562 - 91 points. |
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Glenlochy 43 yo 1979 (53.6%, Gordon & MacPhail, Connoisseurs Choice Heritage Collection, refill American hogshead, 2023-2026)
This one belongs to that splendid series of old-style CC replicas, several of which have already delighted us over recent weeks. Think Dallas Dhu and Talisker! Colour: full gold. Nose: this is markedly different, with a stronger emphasis on varnishes, wood glue and fine furniture polish, indeed beeswax and propolis are never far away. The fruits, more along the lines of apricots, apples and little green fruits, are less exuberant than in the 1970, yet after a few minutes eucalyptus joins the dance, bringing a different kind of balance, every bit as flawless. With water: there we are, the peaches come charging in at full speed! Mouth (neat): a striking combination of peppers and mentholated, camphory notes at first, followed by magnificent orange zests. The wax returns as well, confirming that Glenlochy really was something of a cousin to Clynelish in certain respects. More Old Clynelish/Brora than modern Clynelish, perhaps, only without the peat. With water: the peaches make a notable comeback, accompanied by mandarins and citron. A subtle mineral and fermentary side also emerges, rather reminiscent of a great white wine very much in tune with contemporary tastes. Which is quite ironic for a distillery that has been closed for so long, would you not agree? Finish: long, almost oily, certainly very textured and, once again, waxy and mineral, recalling graphite oil. Something akin to a fine penetrating lubricant. The citron returns in the closing moments. Comments: if it is meant to loosen things up, it certainly does the job! A wonderful bottle, very much in the same vein as G&M’s relatively recent ‘Recollection’ version. One almost gets the impression that the Signatory gave it a helpful leg-up, so to speak.
SGP:561 - 92 points. |
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