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| Hi, this is one of our (almost) daily tastings. Santé! |
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June 30, 2026 |
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The Time Warp Sessions,
today two Gordon & MacPhail Strathislas, distilled twenty years apart |
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Without doubt the best-known distillery in terms of its aesthetics
and tourist appeal. (Chivas Brothers) |
There really isn’t much Strathisla around at the moment. The days when Gordon & MacPhail were churning out their famous white-label bottlings at a steady pace seem a long way off, but they still have some casks. Magnificent whiskies in general, those white ones, even at 70° proof. As for the official bottlings, they remain fairly anecdotal, and it’s been a long time since the 12-year-old last found its way into our tulip glasses. We’ll remedy that, I promise, but for now we’ll be tasting a 1977 and a 1997… |
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Strathisla 40 yo 1977/2017 'Book of Kells' (46.6%, Gordon & MacPhail for Japan Import System, cask #389, refill hogshead, 163 bottles) 
Angus has already tasted this baby for these pages but let us not be left behind! Colour: white wine. An astonishing colour for such an age. Nose: barley, apples, pears, acacia honey, fading flowers and a few touches of slightly underripe bananas. It is all very natural, almost youthful, with highly amusing notes of café latte arriving a little later. You remember, a latte is coffee plus £5. Mouth: much more herbal, sharper and spicier, almost aggressive yet entirely without malice. Yes, well... Fruit peelings, grape stems, green pepper, candied lemon peel and liquorice wood. Finish: fairly long, still rather herbal, before that café latte note returns as a signature. Unsweetened. Comments: one gets the impression that it has dried out a little over the years, but let us not be mistaken, this remains a wonderful old Speysider. With, of course, the most beautiful label in the world.
SGP:461 - 89 points. |
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Strathisla 27 yo 1997/2024 (55.7%, Gordon & MacPhail, Connoisseurs Choice, for HNWS 19th Anniversary, Taiwan, refill American hogshead, cask #47798, 224 bottles) 
Colour: full gold. Nose: we find much the same profile again, though with a little more oomph, while the whole remains ultra-classic, on ripe apples, yellow and green plums, a few touches of buttercream, hints of flowers (dandelions and broom), green melon and a handsome dose of green tea. With water: touches of mint, absinthe and pastis. All rather artisanal, naturally... Mouth (neat): the melon strikes immediately, which is fortunate as we do rather like melon. The whole, however, remains relatively robust and rustic, which surprises us a little. With water: it finally opens up, revealing more small yellow fruits and assorted berries, although the overall impression remains somewhat austere. Finish: fairly long, still packed with yellow, green and white fruits, alongside green tea and green pepper. In short, almost everything is green. Comments: this is probably not the easiest Strathisla and, truth be told, one perhaps needs to intellectualise it a little. The barley is certainly there, though it remains somewhat discreet. Excellent nonetheless, needless to say.
SGP:461 - 87 points. |
Well, by this point one might be wondering whether a touch more quality sherry maturation wouldn't have gone amiss. |
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