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| Hi, this is one of our (almost) daily tastings. Santé! |
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July 9, 2026 |
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WF's Little Duos:
today indie Knockdhu |
No An Cnoc this time around; instead, we’ll be trying some independently bottled Knockdhu. There aren’t many of those about, so let’s make the most of it and see whether there’s any peat involved. Of course they’ve made peated whisky, who hasn’t… |

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Knockdhu 13 yo 2012/2025 (57%, Infrequent Flyers, Alistair Walker, ruby Port hogshead finish, cask #800068, 324 bottles) 
Certainly, this is only a ruby Port finish, but I am sure everything will turn out perfectly well, as this is a very good house. Colour: apricot. Nose: well, it does smell of wine, after all. Very ripe redcurrants, clafoutis, blackcurrants, hare’s belly... well, now we are getting carried away. With water: olive cake and dried tomatoes. Highly improbable, admittedly, but rather charming. Mouth (neat): this is quite amusing indeed, with cherries, pepper and sage, alongside a very pronounced vermouthy side, rather reminiscent of Barbadillo’s Ataman. Not a bad reference, you might say. With water: it remains somewhat trans-categorical and, above all, strongly marked by grape skins, stems and goji berries. Finish: much the same. I am beginning to struggle a little. Comments: I have never been entirely convinced by the marriage of ruby Port and malt, it is a bit like Ritchie Blackmore playing Chopin. This one, however, is rather more to my liking than many others...
SGP:561 - 79 points. |

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Knockdhu 20 yo 2006/2026 (53.6%, Decadent Drams, refill hogshead, 114 bottles) 
With a label rather in the style of the Factory, circa 1967. But good heavens, was 2006 really twenty years ago already? Colour: white wine. Nose: it sends the ruby bottling ad patres without much difficulty, although it is not entirely free of flaws. That said, it is clearly medicinal at this stage and therefore probably one of the peated versions, they did produce them at various peat levels. Quite attractive, all told. With water: rosemary, hay smoke and a touch of modelling clay. Mouth (neat): fairly oily, peppery and citric, with wax and zesty notes, although there is a very slightly excessive bitterness in the background to my taste. Chewed pine needles without much forethought. With water: better now, thanks to the arrival of lemon and lemongrass. This stuff ought to keep mosquitoes away if applied to the skin rather than drunk. Perhaps even the midges! Finish: fairly long, on pine resin and slightly bitter vegetables. Or perhaps Underberg, the favourite drink of our friend Lars in Hong Kong. Comments: I much prefer it to the previous one, although I find it a little imprecise and somewhat untidy. Then again, to conquer without peril is to triumph without glory (hey!).
SGP:463 - 82 points. |
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