Just a few cognacs and armagnacs


June 7, 2026

A word of caution
Let me please remind you that my humble assessments of any spirits are done from the point of view of a malt whisky enthusiast who, what's more, is aboslutely not an expert in rum, brandy, tequila, vodka, gin or any other spirits. Thank you – and peace!

Just a few cognacs and armagnacs

This photo was reportedly taken during a recent official luncheon
convened to make a definitive decision on the correct way to spell
“Bas-Armagnac”. The meeting was deemed 'inconclusive'. (WF)

A short, fairly quick and somewhat disorganised session, but we shall nevertheless begin it with our traditional old-fashioned aperitif.

Castillon ‘V.S.O.P.’ (40%, OB, cognac, Fine Champagne, +/-1975)Castillon ‘V.S.O.P.’ (40%, OB, cognac, Fine Champagne, +/-1975)

Castillon ‘V.S.O.P.’ (40%, OB, cognac, Fine Champagne, +/-1975)

We had tasted an older Castillon a few weeks ago and it had not been bad at all (WF 80) despite the ravages of time. This very one is among the very last bottlings from the house before it disappeared. Colour: deep amber. Nose: very much centred on sultanas at first, then gingerbread and dried figs. Quite pleasant, but really driven almost entirely by dried fruits, as was the case with many middle-of-the-road cognacs of the era. We would not quite call this a malternative, at least not at this stage. Mouth: the sultanas return, but there is far more authority here, with toasted bread, a faintly sherried brandy character, pipe tobacco, toasted sesame seeds and a few notes of prunes. In any case, it is distinctly better on the palate and, in that sense, rather malternative indeed. Finish: fairly long, not overly marked by caramel, but Corinth raisins have well and truly taken control. It remains thoroughly good, with a touch of liquorice in the aftertaste. Comments: the palate is really rather charming, while the nose feels somewhat less essential.
SGP:551 - 79 points.

An organic cognac, presented in an amusing pl

A de Fussigny ‘2050’ (40%, OB, 2024)

An organic cognac, presented in an amusing plastic bottle wrapped in woven rush, or something along those lines. The name ‘2050’ would seem to suggest a desire to help preserve the future, which can hardly be criticised of course. Besides, nobody would imagine it to be a 2050 vintage, which makes a pleasant change from all those pseudo-old vintages displayed more or less subtly on certain bottles across all categories. Right then, let’s taste it… Colour: pale gold. Nose: we find the house style once again, beautifully balanced between herbal and leafy notes on one side, and fruits and flowers on the other. Truth be told, this is rather lovely, especially on honeysuckle and apple skins, with a touch of aniseed and liquorice. Mouth: excellent, fresh, and once again impeccably balanced, with liquorice, walnuts, hazelnuts, green melon, a hint of candied sugar, menthol tobacco and just-ripe apricots. I like this a great deal, it has a faintly Highland-ish side for a Cognac, if you see what I mean. Finish: fairly long, a little more herbal, and very coherent throughout. Comments: the bottle may be a little odd, but the cognac inside is excellent. Above all, and I do insist, it is remarkably well balanced.
SGP:551 - 86 points.

Domaine d’Embidoure ‘XO’ (42%, OB, armagnac, +/-2025)

Here we are in the Gers, with a house that also produces Vins de Pays des Côtes de Gascogne. In theory, what we have in our glass is a Haut-Armagnac. Colour: full gold. Nose: more austere than the Fussigny, drier, and far less expressive, with a rather herbal eau-de-vie side that is not especially inviting. It is true that we are accustomed to tasting mostly cognacs and armagnacs from houses already selected and, in a way, already endorsed by enthusiasts, but when you venture in at random, which is exactly what happened here (I simply thought the bottle looked attractive), it becomes quite another matter. That said, the notes of small, almost wild apples are rather charming. Mouth: better than the nose had suggested, but still decidedly rustic, with a rather awkward split between green fruits and syrupy sweetness. Finish: much the same. Comments: this rather puts things back into perspective. From now on, I shall probably continue trusting my friends when it comes to cognac and armagnac. In the world of spirits, chance too often gets things wrong.
SGP:551 - 60 points.

Château Hontambère 2014/2026 (54.5%, OB, for Le Blog à Roger, Ténarèze, folle blanche, cask #H1, 100 bottles)

Le Blog à Roger is an excellent Belgian blog that shares with us a sometimes delightfully excessive passion for great spirits. They are celebrating their ninth anniversary with this handsome Ténarèze, and we have been looking forward to tasting it. Colour: full gold. Nose: not vastly different from the previous one, except that everything is ten times better. The profile, the power, the precision, the sense of place... And the folle blanche of course. Little herbs, wild carrots, fennel seeds, apples and plums, acacia blossom, elderflower (in moderation, naturally) ... With water: some lovely fermentary touches emerge, and we are always fond of those in our spirits. There is almost a brown ale character, if you can imagine such a thing, which is really taking matters rather far. Guaranteed success at any feria, one would think. Mouth (neat): fruitier on the palate, yet unmistakably Ténarèze, with brown tobacco, caramelised fruits and even chocolate praline. Now that is sinful... With water: everything falls neatly into place, it almost gains in power with dilution, while also becoming more rustic, displaying that unmistakable countryside character. Finish: it moves towards small fruits gathered in an abandoned orchard, especially apples, with even a faint saline edge. The aftertaste is more on preserved fruits and jams. Comments: a top young armagnac, one for your most precious hip flask.
SGP:562 - 88 points.

Speaking of hip flasks…

Vallein-Tercinier 2020/2025 (64.3%, Piacere Rinato, Fins Bois)

A new independent bottler from the Netherlands who had the good sense to select a very young Fins Bois from a very good house. This ought to clear the airways rather efficiently (ha)... Colour: full gold. Nose: naturally, at such a lofty strength the alcohol rather barricades the nostrils, but peaches and lush herbal notes are already apparent. For the rest, we shall place our trust in water... With water: waxes and furniture polish, rather in the style of a young bourbon from a major house, although peach skins quickly reclaim centre stage. Mouth (neat): a magnificent muscat-like character! This feels rather brilliant indeed, although it remains undeniably fiery. There is only one cure... With water: ah, mint, eucalyptus, pine resin, citron and what could almost be called a Gascon limoncello. Finish: long and sublimely citrus-driven. Comments: it is rather frightening that such a young Fins Bois can be this good. It almost amounts to a Copernican revolution in the world of brandies... I shall say no more, except that I very nearly pushed it to WF 90.
SGP:661 - 89 points.

Since we're already venturing into frighteningly high ABVs...

Michelet 2018/2025 ‘Lot nr. 18’ (64.9%, Piacere Rinato, Grande Champagne)

Here we are in Segonzac, with a house I had never tasted before. I knew Michelet the famous historian, but not the cognac makers bearing the same name (very clever, S.) I should add that the utter simplicity of the label bodes extremely well. At the very least, we can be certain they did not use any AI. Colour: gold. Nose: if you enjoy parsley, wild garlic and little tart apples, this is very much for you. And for me. With water: the water softens those notes somewhat, replacing them with more classical aromas of stewed fruits, compotes and sultanas. Mouth (neat): they are already becoming rather troublesome at Piacere Rinato, given how good everything seems to be. Which, of course, makes them dangerous. With water: the exact opposite of the nose, as dilution reveals little herbs, liquorice, poppy seeds and fennel. Finish: long, with more lemony notes. The classic touches of glue reappear in the aftertaste. Magnificent tension throughout. Comments: the prices are outrageous. In the best possible sense. To whom it may concern...
SGP:651 - 88 points.

It's always a bit of a mess in France, so is it Bas-Armagnac? Bas Armagnac? bas armagnac? Bas armagnac? Bas-armagnac? I get the impression that nobody really knows, or at least that the matter has always been debated over a few drinks, after an enormous duck confit au foie gras and mountains of pommes sarladaises, without ever reaching any definitive conclusion... No wonder!

Baron de Sigognac 1973 (46.2%, Old Master Spirits, bas armagnac, +/-2026)

Here we are again in Australia, back in the days of the formidable, and thoroughly mad, Mackenzie Theory (Google is supposed to be your friend). Colour: amber. Nose: abundant stewed fruits, mingling with meadow honey, all sprinkled with coriander and fresh mint. The whole is compact, coherent and perfectly integrated, which is pretty much the exact opposite of Mackenzie Theory. Right. Mouth: much firmer and tauter on the palate, earthier and spicier too, although that is more than normal at this age. Cedarwood, calvados, tobacco, touches of varnish and plenty of prunes. Finish: it drifts slightly towards old fortified wines, rancio notes and even very old PX. Very dark chocolate and oak in the aftertaste, although a touch of orange liqueur keeps everything nicely lifted. Comments: this is an old armagnac, and it shows. Certain organoleptic dimensions become almost philosophical at this stage, but that is precisely what an old spirit is about, a complete experience rather than a simple tasting. Indeed.
SGP:551 - 88 points.

Right, one last one, then next Sunday it's back to rum, if all goes well...

Guillaume Duluc ‘Napoléon’ (70%, Authentic Spirits, Grande Champagne, +/-2026)

Pure ugni blanc. At 70% vol., we say our prayers and rather hope that both the Duluc house and Authentic Spirits have taken out every conceivable insurance policy, including public liability, water damage, hospitalisation, repatriation, explosions, fire, business interruption and the rest. All in order? Right then, let us proceed, as Napoléon himslef used to say, 'First engage in battle, then see what happens.'... Colour: amber. Nose: this is really on the edge, you almost feel as though you have just gone a round with Tyson, such is the extent to which your nose has already been anaesthetised. With (a lot of) water: twigs, green melon, grape stalks and a faint touch of rubber... The rascal is not giving in without a fight. Mouth (neat): we are really only capable of saying that it is very good, which is almost a reflex under such circumstances. It does bring to mind certain young Willetts, though. With water: there we are, it has finally opened up, sweeter now, yet still kind of taut and untamed. This remains more ultra-trail than an afternoon of bridge or Scrabble. Finish: long, with a texture that is not quite as thick as expected, alongside some residual sweetness. Pears appear right at the end. Comments: this was not a tasting, it was genuinely a contest of wills. I rather think they should include a small booklet explaining the best way to reduce it, so that it may be enjoyed under optimal conditions. It seems difficult to leave the drinker entirely to his own devices in such extremely demanding circumstances. Just saying...
SGP:541 - 87 points.