Just a few more rums


September 6, 2026

A word of caution
Let me please remind you that my humble assessments of any spirits are done from the point of view of a malt whisky enthusiast who, what's more, is aboslutely not an expert in rum, brandy, tequila, vodka, gin or any other spirits. Thank you – and peace!

Just a few more rums

We continue our exploration of sugarcane spirit, its various derivatives, and the occasional unmentionable organic substance, which, by some pure miracle, we usually manage to dodge. Sugars, syrups, fruits, infusions and other acts of botanical (in the most favourable cases) vandalism here… Anyway, let’s begin with our traditional aperitif and try to raise the bar straight away…

Jamaica & Guyana 1995/2025 (45.5%, The Whisky Jury, The Many Faces of Rum, blended rum, cask #1, 216 bottles)

The distinguished bottlers tell us that this baby was ‘blended many years ago’, which does not rule out some blending at birth, am I wrong? Or immediate post-import blending? In any case, we are firmly in an English style… Colour: gold. Nose: that combination of olives, liquorice and anti-rust paint that is so typical of Royal Navy rums. Black olive biscuits, coffee caramel, the engine of an old motor car, lemon, ultra-ripe bananas… In short, there is some very lovely complexity here and we cannot help thinking of certain versions of Black Tot. Mouth: very fine woodiness, with balsa and cedar, then salted liquorice and grapefruit, the whole being gentler and more civilised than on the nose. A little charcoal, pencil lead… Finish: fairly long, with more brine and even seawater. Comments: excellent, even more so as an apéritif. A votre santé.
SGP:462 - 87 points.

Mainland Rum 8 yo 2017 (61.1%, Superlative Spirits, USA, California, Hawaiian molasses, ex-bourbon cask, 240 bottles, +/-2026)

There had been a 10-year-old for K&L that had been excellent (WF 87). Colour: light gold. Nose: wood glue, marzipan and whiffs of brand-new Tupperware, could you make it any more American? Then thuja wood and cedar, a new humidor etc. With water: it retreats a little towards white turrón, fudge, peanut butter… Mouth (neat): much gentler on the palate, with oranges and roasted nuts, but also cedar wood once again. With water: a little ginger and some salty touches. Finish: same. A little rubber. Comments: perhaps less distinctive (and mad) than the K&L, but this remains very much to my taste.
SGP:441 - 81 points.

Ten Cane 12 yo 2012/2025 (59%, Holmes Cay Rum, Trinidad, The Whisky Exchange exclusive, cask #128)

I must confess I hadn’t heard of Holmes Cay, but they seem to have been around for several years, which proves once again just what an expert on rum I am. Apparently this is from an ex-cognac cask, while I should remind you that Ten Cane was an LVMH distillery that was active for only a few years in the early 2000s. Colour: deep gold. Nose: very lovely precision, simple and effective, with triple sec, very ripe mango and a few touches of peaches in syrup, perhaps coming from the cognac? No high esters so far. With water: a little wet cardboard, carbon, fir smoke… Mouth (neat): rather more salmiak than on the nose. We also find the trio of lemon, mango and pink peppercorn. Very light varnish. With water: it remains salty and lemony, but also rather fat on the palate. Finish: long, rather on lapsang souchong tea with a little lemon inside. But who would do that? Comments: very, very, very presentable, this little Ten Cane.
SGP:442 - 85 points.

Since we’re in Trinidad & Tobago…

T.D.L. 22 yo 2003/2025 (57.8%, Lucky Choice for The Good Spirits & Picnic Bar, Trinidad, barrel)

With TDL, the question is always the same: few esters? A moderate amount of esters? Loads of esters? Quite a Jamaican question, when all is said and done. Colour: golden amber. Nose: that monstrous and oh-so-typical assortment of ripe bananas, mango liqueur, passion fruit and fir honeydew. This is going to be quick. With water: a little rubber, tar, lanolin… Mouth (neat): sublime salty exotic fruits and a lime that gradually takes over, together with fresh mint. Rest assured, we’re not heading towards some beach mojito. With water: goodness, this is good! What’s more, some superb bitters come rushing in and rebalance the whole thing. Finish: long, clean, on ultra-premium-quality liquorice allsorts, with salty touches. Tar in the aftertaste. Comments: the only flaw is that there are precisely zero surprises.
SGP:652 - 90 points.

The Scarlet Ibis 18 yo (55%, The Whisky Exchange, Trinidad, ex-bourbon barrels, 2026)

We’re duly warned that this is a ‘Single Modernist Rum’. Mind you, Modernism in art gave us Art Nouveau, did it not, so perhaps ‘Modernist’ is already splendidly old-fashioned. Colour: deep gold. Nose: TDL through and through, ripe bananas, mangoes, honey, melon, pineapple, liquorice allsorts… With water: there seem to be a few more esters than in the 2003 and, to be fair, a little touch of Ten Cane as well. Mouth (neat): kiwi, melon, banana, light camphor, mint, heather honey, slightly salty liquorice… There really is nothing to throw away here. With water: much the same, while the mint grows more prominent, with even a slight touch of aniseed or pastis. Finish: fairly long, fresh, and even more liquorice-driven. Lime in the signature. Comments: I’ve just seen the price of this bottle and almost sent them a fax to tell them they’d forgotten a zero.
SGP:662 - 89 points.

French West Indies 2019/2026 (58%, Kirsch Import, Journal des Kirsch, Martinique, agricole, bourbon cask, N°14, 140 bottles)

Almost everyone says this is La Favorite, but should we really believe everyone? Especially since others say it’s Neisson… Colour: amber. Nose: it’s really interesting to taste this Martinique after the Trinidads, something we wouldn’t normally have done, as it really brings out the spicy, toasted side, cinnamon rolls, eucalyptus, wet earth, even potting soil, balsamic notes, toasted walnuts… With water: ras el hanout from an old tin box. Mouth (neat): really excellent, camphor, liquorice, even more eucalyptus, throat lozenges, honey… It almost makes you want to pretend you’ve got a sore throat just so you can have some more. Or buy six bottles, if there are any left. With water: perfect, now with a surprising rye-like side that doesn’t feel out of place at all. Finish: not that long, but complex, with magnificent spices. Violet liquorice. Comments: this is certainly a slightly different agricole, and I love it. As for the prices, I almost sent Kirsch a fax too, about those missing zeroes. There really are some terrific bargains to be had.
SGP:561 - 90 points.

We’re off to Jamaica. You know the rule, no WF session without a Jamaican!

Jamaïque ‘STR BDX TDJ’ (55%, Landier & Vingtier, Jamaica, 2026)

If you know what ‘STR BDX TDJ’ means, please send me a telegram or a telex. Right, STR Bordeaux cask it must be, but TDJ? Trelawny Distillery Jamaica, perhaps? We shall await the telex. Colour: rich gold. Nose: esters turned up to eleven, formic acid, olive oil, diesel fuel, acetone, this positively reeks of Trelawny Distillery Jamaica. Right, Hampden or Long Pond. The very ripe apples now coming to the fore aren’t giving away any further secrets. With water: those caramelised Brussels sprouts (indeed) aren’t telling us any more either. Mouth (neat): absolutely perfect, anchovies, olives, pepper, cider vinegar, salmiak, capers… With water: tapenade loosened with seawater and lemon. Finish: same. Comments: it’s very young, but it’s already excellent. I should add that I found strictly nothing Bordeaux-like in here, and I’m certainly not complaining, quite the opposite. While just like everyone, I adore Bordeaux.
SGP:463 - 87 points.

Check the index of all rums we've tasted