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| Hi, this is one of our (almost) daily tastings. Santé! |
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April 22, 2026 |
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The Time Warp Sessions,
today Mortlach 2006 vs 1969
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Regarding these two vintages, we’ll avoid mentioning rock and roll artists, that would be wiser. Except, of course, for those who were active in both years. Right then: Jeff Beck (RIP), Robert Plant, The Rolling Stones, Engelbert Humperdinck (spot the odd one out) … There’s still a gap of 37 years between them… |
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Mortlach 18 yo 2006/2025 (56%, The First Editions, for HNWS Taiwan, refill hogshead, cask #HL21494, 126 bottes) 
Let us go in search of sulphur ‘from the distillate’… Colour: pale gold. Nose: and here it is straight away, that famous paraffin and lanolin side, quickly joined by fresh apple and fresh plaster. It is really not common to come across Mortlachs this close to nature, in any case to their natural style… With water: a mix of chalk, clay, apple juice and lemon zest. It is very taut, we do like this. Mouth (neat): this really is a great distillate. Hold tight, we find some slightly odd things here, such as black garlic, cider apples, baker’s yeast, green pepper, very bitter orange, olive brine… In short, it has plenty to say. With water: it carries on along the saline side, one would think of a seaside distillery. But an old Scotsman once told me that in any case, all of Scotland is by the sea. Hmm… Finish: long, sharp, lemony, saline, with ashes. Comments: quite frankly, blind I would n.e.v.e.r. have said Mortlach. Benromach, perhaps? Who did the stencilling, an intern student?
SGP:362 - 87 points. |
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Mortlach 22 yo 1969/1991 (50.5%, Cadenhead, Black Dumpy) 
from the end of the black dumpies, before moving to the Authentic Collection in the classic green bottles, now actively sought after, or so I was told in a bar in a moment of distraction, by the US Army to use as fuel. I do not know whether that is true… Colour: full gold. Nose: there is quite clearly a kerosene side, and I am not joking. Basalt rocks, paraffin, wild mint, wild garlic, smoked meats… This is very unusual in these times of PX, Mizunara, red Bordeaux, virgin oak and suchlike, but it is rather magnificent, if a little disconcerting. With water: it becomes more civilised, with overripe apples, banana cake, blueberry muffins… Mouth (neat): a smoky Mortlach, waxy, but also with strawberry liqueur, dried meat, pink pepper… It has been a long time since anyone has produced such a profile. With water: are we quite sure Mortlach is not by the sea? This salted stewed strawberry side is most unusual, and in truth magnificent. Soya sauce, dried jujubes. Finish: long, with stewed strawberries that do not take any nonsense. Comments: strawberries! I am sure that a large part of these unusual aromas comes from bottle ageing that must have proceeded perfectly. We shall not discuss here the role of glass and caps, we shall do that another time.
SGP:562 - 90 points. |
(Thanks to the Absolutely Nuts!) |
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