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| Hi, this is one of our (almost) daily tastings. Santé! |
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September 29, 2026 |
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WF's Little Duos,
today, Fettercairn |
Long somewhat relegated to the ranks of those strange, bitter, sometimes a tad feinty malts, and perhaps a little overshadowed by its prestigious cousin Dalmore (and Jura!), Old Fettercairn has, over the past decade, found its rightful place among the more characterful whiskies, and become much more appreciated by enthusiasts. At least by the one currently hammering away at his keyboard with both appetite and curiosity… |
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Fettercairn 18 yo ‘Batch 2024’ (46.8%, OB, annual release, Scottish oak finish) 
In 2024, Fettercairn celebrated its 200th anniversary! This baby was finished in ‘responsibly-sourced, native Scottish Oak’. I promise we’ll taste it just as responsibly, even if we are two years late. Who said as usual? Colour: full gold. Nose: very light touches of green walnut and mild mustard to begin with, which strikes me as traditionally Fettercairn, then an avalanche of ripe apples and a few very subtle touches of grilled bacon and currants. This is really very charming and, above all, distinctive. Mouth: excellent, peppery, salty, bitter, but candied too, packed with peppered walnuts, fir needles and, once again, currants, with a little chocolate and coffee. The coffee must come from the Scottish oak, right? Finish: long and still bitter, like the best amaros. Amari? Bitter coffee in the aftertaste. Comments: properly dry, with something of an amontillado feel, only without the amontillado. Well, you see what I mean…
SGP:461 - 87 points. |
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Fettercairn 17 yo 2007/2025 ‘The Gauger’s Reserve’ (57.8%, OB, bourbon barrel, cask #4369) 
Colour: pale white wine. Nose: we’re very close to chalk, grist, bushels of barley that’s not quite ripe yet, a few crushed mustard seeds and liquorice wood. You simply couldn’t get any closer to the raw materials, believe me. With water: plaster and cement, both still damp. Mouth (neat): splendid bitter, green, mustardy vivacity, with lime zest and tiny wild apples. I just love that little sensation of plaster and grass juice. With water: barely any sweeter, with just a little softness brought by apples and their old pal, green pear. Finish: long, once again with splendid bitters. Comments: they could have sent you an empty bottle, a kilogram of barley, some brewer’s yeast and a few fresh oak shavings and it would have been much the same. Except you’d still have quite a lot of work to do. I love it.
SGP:361 - 88 points. |
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