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| Hi, this is one of our (almost) daily tastings. Santé! |
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July 28, 2026 |
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Hello! Today,
Whiskyfun turns 24
But don't worry, we haven’t planned to publish a retrospective on the past twenty-four years, or even on the year just gone, except perhaps to say how immensely we enjoyed the three or four festivals where we were invited to speak. They call that masterclasses; we simply call them freewheeling guided tastings. |
Over the past twelve months, Paris, London, Hamburg and Hong Kong have all become pearls on our necklace, while the wonderful people we had the pleasure of meeting there have been the diamonds between those pearls. Thank you all once again – it was absolutely brilliant. And there’s more to come after the summer break, including the regular Whisky Live Paris and the Whisky Show London, the new Whisky Live Hamburg already returning for its second edition, and, in all likelihood, the Hong Kong Whisky Festival again next year. |
| Looking a little further ahead, next year will mark Whiskyfun’s 25th anniversary, and this time we’ll try to do something rather special. We’ll even probably, if all goes well, unveil a $2 Billion AI-powered Embedded Self-Comparative Online Tasting System (E.S.C.O.T.S.) right here on this little website. No, only joking… but stay tuned all the same! |
| In the meantime, instead of our customary Clynelish and Brora, we’ve decided to celebrate our 24th anniversary by tasting a distillery that also ranks among our all-time favourites… |
From 2009 back to 1964, a verticale of eight splendid Longmorns |
With a little wave to the ‘Longmorn brothers’, Govert and Hans! Now tasting these Longmorns in the middle of summer was a bold move, we can all agree on that. Mind you, Longmorn dances the tango with heavy, warming sherry to absolute perfection. Sadly, there are rather few official bottlings these days that truly catch our attention, but indeed it has long been rather the independents who have kept us thoroughly entertained with Longmorn. And not only Gordon & MacPhail either, even if they remain the undisputed über-specialists. |

Amlou |

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Longmorn 16 yo 2009/2025 (52.5%, The Duchess, PX hogshead, cask #34) 
Colour: full gold. Nose: we are firmly in old-school Pedro territory here, with damp earth and mushrooms layered over bitter oranges and, above all, dark raisins, rather in the style of black muscat, perhaps even prunes. A slight touch of gunpowder too. With water: indeed, a few spent matches, then hay and almond milk. Mouth (neat): rich, creamy and earthy, packed with pipe tobacco and triple sec, plus plenty of freshly ground pepper. With water: the raisins return, rich and highly aromatic, almost nudging the whole towards Moscatel, although the balance remains elegant throughout. Finish: fairly long, moving more towards fruitcake, clootie dumpling and all the usual companions. The matches and gunpowder have quietly disappeared. Comments: rich and thoroughly good, a solid foundation for a modest (?!) verticale.
SGP:641 - 85 points. |

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Longmorn 16 yo 2009/2025 (60.8%, Watashi Whisky, Seven Catly Sins – Lust, 1st fill bourbon barrel, cask #336, 120 bottles)
Colour: full gold. Nose: we are back to the classic fruitiness of the great fruity Speysiders, Longmorn of course, Balvenie, Aberlour… In short, it is packed with beautifully ripe apples and pears, with floral touches recalling lavender honey and honeysuckle. The oranges are not far behind either. With water: melon sorbet. Surely you have nothing against melon sorbet? Mouth (neat): lust indeed, creamy and gloriously citrus-led, rather like a blend of bergamot, orange and citron liqueurs. Topped up with Krug or Salon, this would make one hell of a spritz! With water: very little changes, apart from the arrival of classic lemon and a few touches of fresh mint. Finish: long, fresh and chalky. We really do keep thinking of Champagne… Comments: and there we are, already climbing very high. Longmorn is a superb distillate, we shall keep insisting upon that, while the cask employed here is high quality and impeccably well behaved. More often than not, we are in the presence of a little beauty. We should have a few more examples today…
SGP:651 - 89 points. |

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Longmorn 15 yo 2008/2024 (56.4%, Archives, for Taiwan, 2nd fill hogshead, cask #1178, 249 bottles) 
This series is called ‘Birds from the Orient’. That suits us perfectly but let us see whether the song lives up to the plumage… Colour: full gold. Nose: we are very much in line with the previous one, only with a few more exotic touches, bananas and mangoes, plus perhaps a little manuka honey. This nose is simply perfect. With water: we tasted some 1989 Balvenies just before, I have no idea whether we shall publish them before or after these Longmorns, but in any case, this Longmorn and those Balvenies are even closer than Jagger and Richards. Right. Mouth (neat): very little separates it from the previous one, lively, classy, highly elegant, lemony and refreshing. Lovely tea and green pepper emerge after a few moments. With water: this is what we call as good as good bread. Beautiful fruitiness, invigorating and precise. Finish: we are entering a tunnel now, it often happens when whiskies are so close to one another, but do not worry, we shall remedy that forthwith. Comments: delicious, although hardly surprising from our friends at Archives.
SGP:651 - 89 points. |
Let us wind the clock back a little further through the vintages… |

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Longmorn 30 yo 1985 (52.3%, Scotch Malt Whisky Society, #7.142, refill bourbon hogshead, ‘Dynamic & Delightful’, 90 bottles, +/-2016) 
Colour: deep gold. Nose: a sublime marriage of citrus fruits and mints, which we shall not even bother to describe in detail since there were only 90 bottles (too easy, S.) Wonderful little citrus fruits, ham, borage, pansies… This is simply beautiful… and dynamic indeed. With water: little touches of damp earth and potting soil, humus and mosses, all wrapped in the most beautiful freshness. A walk through the forest. Mouth (neat): wonderfully sharp, very refill in style, with magnificent lemons of several kinds, angelica, perhaps just showing the faintest hint of tiring compared with that utterly sublime nose, though we remain at a very high level indeed. With water: I am talking nonsense, it is still absolutely beautiful. Finish: medium in length but with remarkable liveliness for a 30-year-old. Little lemons, lemon balm, lemon blossom honey and liquorice wood. Comments: these natural Longmorns really are utterly splendid…
SGP:651 - 90 points. |

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Longmorn 1976/2010 (53.8%, Duncan Piper, Millenium Malts, bourbon, cask #5890, 185 bottles)
A Millennium whisky bottled in 2010, which rather suggests an admirably elastic view of the passage of time. That suits us perfectly. I must confess we have had rather little experience with Duncan Piper, although we did have some acquaintance with Duncan the Piper, who used to play with great flair. But once again, I digress… Colour: gold. Nose: this baby is not especially extravagant or demonstrative, a classically fruity Longmorn with ripe apples, a little honey, yoghurt and touches of mead. For now… With water: it remains within this rather rural universe. Mouth: very good, fairly rustic, with a few touches of pepper and even a little cardboard, though never to the point of becoming distracting. Apple peelings, cider… With water: we find ourselves drifting a little closer to the official bottlings, the 15, the 16… The first 16, frankly, was almost an industrial accident considering Longmorn's potential, once again demonstrated here today. Finish: medium in length, becoming more honeyed but also rather more herbal. Comments: be careful with water, it collapses rather quickly, as so many of these malts do.
SGP:551 - 84 points. |

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Longmorn 1974/1996 (58.3%, IC Millar Esq & G Pollard Esq) 
A private Longmorn for two gentlemen from Northampton, we are most intrigued… Colour: full gold. Nose: oh, this is beautiful, with orange blossom, oriental pastries, honey, but also argan oil, fresh mint and fresh morels. This slightly unusual combination is simply dazzling, partly because it is so unusual. With water: do you know Moroccan amlou? Freshly ground almonds, Atlas honey and argan oil, all pounded together with a pestle. An absolute killer, no two ways about it. In any case, we find that very same amlou in this Longmorn, at least on the nose. Mouth (neat): one can only bow to Messrs Millar and Pollard, they had excellent taste. Superb pink grapefruits, mints, eucalyptus, seaweed, lime and even a few touches of high-ester Jamaican rum. With water: you will never guess, the amlou is back. Finish: the citrus fruits return to take command of the proceedings, all with great elegance. Comments: tremendous class. Only, once again, and Longmorn is rather sensitive in this respect, do keep a close eye on how much water you add.
SGP:661 - 91 points. |
And now, maltoporn alert… |

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Longmorn 56 yo 1968/2025 (54.3%, Gordon & MacPhail, Connoisseurs Choice Heritage Collection, first fill sherry butt, cask #5833, 200 bottles) 
And here comes the black label again, familiar from the old (and their new and last) Taliskers, but also from the mysterious Avonsides, for example… What was Avonside? They could tell us after so many years… Shall we have a proper chat about those Avonsides one day, G&M? Colour: American coffee. Nose: naturally, this is packed with speculoos, Corinth raisins, toffee, prunes, old Ténarèze, crushed pepper and bitter chocolate. Let us not forget the pipe tobacco either, something from Dunhill in London, let us say, purely at random. Then there is the beeswax polish. It is, I was just about to add, utterly magnificent. True, G&M no longer commission new fillings, but I do believe they ought to preserve a few seminal marques, especially those in which they were instrumental, Longmorn being a perfect example. Ah well, not my business anyway… With water: oh, that Pata Negra ham! Mouth (neat): extraordinary, massive yet curiously airy, deeply chocolaty and marked by tobacco, salmiak, peppers, black nougat and, above all, the ultimate weapon: black olives. With water: bitter oranges begin to weave their way in, alongside very old sherry, very old Madeira, antique herbal liqueurs, soy sauce, something glutamatey and even the own walnut wine of the Empress of Austria (I am joking… slightly). Finish: long, even saline. A little juniper appears. Comments: I say that by around 2060, whisky enthusiasts will be wondering why G&M stopped commissioning new fillings from these emblematic distilleries (we are not talking about Allt-A-Bhainne or Glen Spey, are we, even though we have the greatest respect for Allt-A-Bhainne and Glen Spey, which I believe we demonstrate every two or three month). Because the G&M versions are, or rather were, and our descendants will have it all properly documented, systematically better. On top of everything else as far as those few distilleries are concerned (L., G.G., GL…)!
SGP:662 - 94 points. |
What did you expect, we are not quite finished yet! … |

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Longmorn 30 yo 1964/1995 (53.2%, Signatory Vintage, oak cask, cask #51, 208 bottles) 
We are delighted to learn from the label, just as we used to with Cadenhead, that this Scottish single malt was matured in an ‘oak cask’. How we miss those blessed days when nobody gave a hoot about these blasted casks or what had previously been in them! Remember, in Scotch whisky you cannot add anything to the spirit itself, yet you can add almost whatever you like to the casks before filling afterwards. It is rather like not salting your steak, while having liberally salted the frying pan previously. Well, you see what I mean. In any case, I know I keep banging on about it. Colour: a magnificent pale gold, worthy of adorning a Van Cleef jewel or one of Patek Philippe’s wonderfully complicated watches. Oh well… Nose: oh, this is simplicity itself, utterly precise, waxy, without the slightest flourish, and driven by pollen and beeswax. Sweet woodruff. Its simplicity is almost disconcerting. With water: we head straight into a barley field after a heavy shower. Mouth (neat): buds in abundance, little citrus fruits, gentian liqueur, mint and aniseed. With water: little berries, little citrus fruits, little wild herbs, wormwood, genepy, little roots… Finish: long, but above all astonishingly refined, rather like an elegant lady quietly taking her leave before the end of a party, bidding everyone a discreet good evening before departing. A graceful retreat, certainly, but never slipping away unnoticed. Comments: superb, especially after the utterly devastating G&M.
SGP: - 92 points. |
(Merci to Aaron, Angus, KC, Rafael, Simon & Phil) |
It’s now my pleasure to hand over to my fellow taster and good friend Angus, who has two Caperdonichs and two Bowmores in store for us that are anything but ordinary... |
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Angus's Corner
From our correspondent and
skilled taster Angus MacRaild in Scotland
Caperdonich & Bowmore
24 years old? Happy birthday Whiskyfun, if you were a whisky we'd be having you re-gauged to determine if you'll make 25yo and thus achieve a new pricing bracket. |
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As for me, I remain humbly delighted to still be able to contribute to this wee blog. Whisky may well be work for me, but Whiskyfun is 100% a hobby and one I adore. As we head into Whiskyfun's 25th year, Serge remains undeniably in the driver's seat of the Whiskyfun motorcycle - I am but a rogue Scottish midge, hitchhiking on his beret ribbons as they flutter in the Alsace sunshine! So I say: congratulations Serge! Please keep it going, and let's lay down some casks for a special Whiskyfun 50th anniversary 25yo bottling this year ;) |
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Caperdonich 32 yo 1970/2002 (53.6%, Scotch Malt Whisky Society 38.11) 
Colour: deep gold. Nose: we have struck beehive! This magnificent combination of exotic woods full of resins, many honeys (both runny and more crystallised in presentation) and a wealth of yellow, green and a few dried exotic fruits as well. Taken together it's really in the same vein as those classic 1972 Caperdonichs; a profile that, I would add, remains slightly yet definitely distinct from its sibling: Glen Grant. Continues, with tiger balm, touches of eucalyptus, flower nectars and further rich and resinous qualities. With water: aromatically it develops much more in the way of dried herbs and flowers, cedar wood boxes full of unlit cigars, old pine wood and camphor. Mouth: terrific arrival! A lorry full of fruit molasses, antique furniture and several cubic metres of beeswax has just overturned and crashed into a giant beehive. Indeed, the palate is several notches waxier, glycerol and fat than the nose suggested. Really drilling into this waxed hessian, old waxed cloth jacket and sheep wool oil territory. With water: mead, very old cider brandy, strop leather, sandalwood and circling back to a deep and profound mix of pure honeycomb and beeswax. Finish: long, glowing with more of those luscious yellow and green fruits, in the form of preserves and syrups, then soft peppery and waxy qualities into the aftertaste. Comments: absolutely top class, perhaps not as purely luscious as some of the 1972s, but I feel these 1970s had something 'extra' about them in terms of density, power and texture that makes them almost more interesting.
SGP: 651 - 92 points. |
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Caperdonich 31 yo 1967/1998 (48.8%, Scotch Malt Whisky Society 38.6, 'Muscovado, Sugar and Friar's Balsam') 
I made the tricky decision to do this one after the older, higher ABV bottling on the assumption that this would be something of a sherry bomb. Let's put this questionable judgement to the test... Colour: deep reddish mahogany. Nose: hoho, it's different for sure, this in fact a glass of very old Enmore! Seriously, this is dominated by fresh brown breads, treacle, date molasses, medicinal herbs and embrocations, also Blackjack sweeties (maybe a UK thing?), sweet liquorice and bramble wine. One of those old spirits that converges on rum, as well as other ideas with fade in and out, such as very old Armagnac and Fins Bois cognac. Now we have a whole punnet of raspberries, drenched in kirsch and dark chocolate. One of those whiskies were many tiny aromas and modulations of profile continue to emerge. Mouth: thankfully, this holds its own against the 1970. This is once again going towards old demerara rum, with these treacle and medicine combinations, but into the bargain goes old bruised cider apples, miso paste, black olive, salted caramel and sweet pipe tobacco. Add in some creme de menthe, walnut wine and beautiful bitter herbal qualities. Finish: long, perfectly bitter, full of freshly baked brown bread, espresso, spiced dark winter ales, star anise and liquorice root. Comments: poles apart, and probably as much about the sherry cask as about the Caperdonich, but it holds its own against the magnificent 1970, even if the latter is more my speed by a single point. This is still an extremely lush and moreish sherry bomb, where the softer cask strength seems to perfectly balance the more bitter herbal and earthy/bready components of the profile and make the whole rather terrifyingly quaffable.
SGP: 462 - 91 points. |
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Bowmore 1964 (43%, OB for Soffiantino in Italy, circa mid-1980s) 
A sort of proto-Black Bowmore, at least in terms of liquid, if not quite branding... Colour: bright mahogany. Nose: obviously, this is amazing. Let's just get that out of the way quickly. But what's pretty interesting, and what strikes me first, is that this feels quite different from the later OB Black Bowmore 1964s. There is a lighter, more playful profile going on here, probably due to the relative youth and lower ABV, but I thought it worth commenting on. A humbling beautiful fusion of dried exotic fruits, coal smoke, soot and damp dunnage earth, sack cloth, mulling spices, medicinal herbs and green walnut liqueur. It also develops a really beautiful salinity that goes towards the best VORS oloroso money can buy! Then freshly roasted coffee beans and Maggi. Quite stupendous stuff. Mouth: like so many of these bottlings, it just devastates even at only 43%. In fact, it's really the density and texture in the mouth that is so impressive. It carries over all these flavours of peat, medicine, salty feelings and dark plus exotic fruit but supercharges them with an immense impression of weight and texture. The fruit profile truly is beautiful now as well. Simultaneously deeply earthy, richly peaty, resinous, tarry, slightly meaty and popping with these bursts of crystalised exotic fruits and tiny hints of lemon, star fruit, yellow plum and baked apple. We had better stop here, I'm sure you get the drift. Finish: long, and again quite deeply peaty, glowing with dry, peppery, thick peat ember qualities, kumquat, orange rind, dried mango and more superbly salty old dry sherry impressions. Herbal bitters and Claquesin in the aftertaste! Comments: exactly as good as you either remember, hope or imagine.
SGP: 666 - 94 points. |
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Bowmore 1969/1978 '15th Anniversary Monica Brothers' (58%, OB for Fecchio & Frasa, cask #6636, sherry cask, 300 bottles) 
Most of the casks in this series have been absolutely devastating, world class drams. No notes on WF for this wee baby yet, let's see if it stacks up with the likes of 1969 #6635 (WF95), or 1969 #6639 (WF96) ... Colour: white wine. Nose: an almost otherworldly freshness. Arguably closer to the sea than being... in the sea! A literal distillation of all that is good, noble and evocative about the west coast of Scotland: beach sand, pebbles, seashells, rock pools, seaweed, chalk, brine etc. All balanced by some dazzling notes of lemons, grapefruits and limes. Then it starts to get a little grassy as well, gorse flower, actual grass and lemongrass. Beyond that: lovage, chive, pure seawater and natural tar extracts. A totally sublime precision paired with breathtaking evocative power. With water: several levels upwards again. Hard to describe, other than to say it retains all this immense coastal character but starts to incorporate the land and the farmyard as well. Earther tones emerge, sheep wool characteristics, hessian, old wooden malt bins, caraway, roasted asparagus, shoe leather. Too many things to keep track of let alone record. Mouth: utterly astonishing power, salinity and freshness; literal sunshine in a glass, but at the same time also literal petrol in a glass! More thrillingly bright and green grassy qualities, white flowers, squid ink, miso, seawater, fresh citrus juices and a Samurai sword made of pure, bone-dry peat smoke, goes swishing past. When you get to this level in whisky, you rather lose all control when it comes to tasting notes. With water: everything as before, but it seems to move outwards in all directions, becoming simultaneously fatter, sweeter, saltier, oilier, peatier, more coastal, more farmy and more fruity all at the same time. It's not so much that it has a flavour profile, rather that you may have to go exploring and chose to focus on one area or direction of flavour at a time. Taken as a whole, it's almost too much. Finish: simply stunnning, emotional and compelling whisky that ends with some kind of poetry written in citrus and seawater. Comments: how long will such bottles exist before they're all drunk or evaporated and oxidised away? What was this like to drink when it was freshly bottled? What cumulation of actual ingredients and process created this insane profile in the first place? Whiskies of this power and such dominating personality just leave you scratching your head I'm afraid. Not that I'd have it any other way.
SGP: 565 - 95 points. Maybe 96. I am not to be trusted with these mad bottlings I'm afraid. |
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In case you were wondering, I can confirm that a blend of those two Bowmores is very, very, very, very good. |
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Eternal hugs to Cicada and Enrico! |
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