A duo of Cragganmore and a rare bonus


November 18, 2024

A duo of Cragganmore and a rare bonus

Let's be clear right away, we are very pleased to see a few independent Cragganmore releases again over the past two or three years. Today, we’ll be tasting two of them, as they’re not exactly in abundance, and we'll take the opportunity to add a bonus whose only connection to Cragganmore is that it starts and ends with the same letters. It’s a bit of an oddity, but waiting for a proper sparring partner could take months and months, especially as the distillery has been closed for a long time.
(Convalmore Distillery, Anne Burgess geograph.co.uk)

Cragganmore 1989/2023 (45.8%, Malts of Scotland, Rare Casks, sherry hogshead, cask #MoS 23003, 120 bottles)

What a splendid series these ‘Rare Casks’ from Malts of Scotland continue to be! As far as Cragganmore is concerned, I believe 1989 is the vintage most frequently encountered among independent bottlers over the past two decades or so—though I’m not suggesting it’s abundant. Incidentally, the recent 1985 COD for Wu Dram Clan and HK was superb (WF 91). Colour: deep gold. Nose: it opens like an old Armagnac, believe it or not, with sumptuous sultanas and prunes upfront before transitioning into a maltier realm filled with chocolate, chicory, coffee, muesli, toasted brioche, and turrón. In essence, the makings of a champion’s breakfast, as they say in those TV ads. Mouth: mirrors that old Armagnac vibe before veering confidently into aged malt territory, highlighted by properly heavy Italian espresso (‘or is not coffee’, as our Italian friends keep reminding us). A touch of leather and tobacco follows, leading gracefully to robust black tea. Finish: long, indeed, with dominant notes of strong black tea and slightly burnt, bitter caramel. That familiar turrón then asserts itself, accompanied by hints of bitter oranges. Comments: not overly complex, but perfectly constructed and reminiscent of the official bottlings from a few years back, those at the dawn of the Classic Malts era.
SGP:561 - 90 points.

Cragganmore 31 yo 1989/2020 (54.7%, The First Editions, Hunter Laing, refill hogshead, cask #HL17820, 242 bottles)

Colour: straw. Nose: immensely interesting, as it highlights how sherry can both elevate a whisky to something truly exceptional while occasionally suppressing the intricacies of the distillate. Here, we’re all about finesse: delicate fruits, white and yellow berries, blossoms, and herbs, with a hint of varnish and a subtly ‘deviant’ quality (in the best way), akin to dandelion honey. If you haven’t smelled that, do try—it’s quite unlike the flower itself. There’s an evolving resemblance to a lightly macerated white wine, or at least one that’s been stirred on the lees. Chardonnay comes to mind. It’s a joy to drift into the world of wine here. With water: waxiness reminiscent of Clynelish! It only gets better… Mouth (neat): superbly focused on citrus, and small, slightly bitter apples and pears. Nothing more, nothing less at first. With water: could we double-check the cask stencil or the barcode? Blindfolded, I’d guess Clynelish, circa 1983. Finish: long, full of wax and white fruits, with that distinctive touch of cédrat. I told you—Clynelish vibes. Comments: sublime, with an extra point or two for its aromatic lineage. Another malt to challenge your whisky-loving friends in a blind tasting.
SGP:651 - 91 points.

That bonus now...

Convalmore 39 yo 1984/2024 (51.1%, Gordon & MacPhail, The Recollection Series #3, refill sherry hogshead, cask #1733, 108 bottles)

Rather characteristic of Gordon & MacPhail not to wait for this dram to hit a more symbolic forty years before bottling, a step many others might have taken. And at 51.1%, it's certainly not a question of low ABV compelling an early release. Convalmore, let’s remember, met its end in 1985 during the industry's second wave of closures, the buildings being now part of the William Grant complex in Dufftown. And could there be wax here as well? Colour: light mahogany. Nose: an intriguing old bourbon-like quality emerges, filled with macarons and a hint of wood glue, soon followed by a large bag of assorted nuts—including the bag itself (think burlap)—and a waft of rose petals. It's a captivating nose, transporting one straight to the shores of the Bosphorus with a plate of Turkish delight. Not much wax so far. With water: notes of balsamic, strong coffee, and walnut husk join the mix. Simply magnificent. Mouth (neat): reminiscent of venerable VORS sherry, old Maury, chocolate infused with brandy, maple syrup, fig jam, and even dulce de leche with a hint of honeyed sweet tea. It certainly speaks volumes. With water: prune soaked in brandy, aged plum, a touch of mint, black tea, and even a hint of broth for good measure. Noticeably drier than anticipated from the nose. Finish: sweetness makes a comeback in the form of sultanas. Yet, oddly enough, any hint of wax seems absent, perhaps is it deftly hidden behind the rather sumptuous sherry. Final flourish of candied oranges. Comments: tasted blind, without the Convalmore profile fresh in mind, and considering the sherry's prominent voice, one might have guessed an old 'D' from the Cromarty Firth. Richly laden, but utterly top-notch.
SGP:651 - 90 points.

Check the index of all Cragganmore we've tasted so far

Check the index of all Convalmore we've tasted so far