WF's Little Duos, today grandiose old indie Cragganmore


September 23, 2025

WF's Little Duos, today grandiose old indie Cragganmore

Two mid-aged, old-style distillations, fancy that? There doesn’t seem to be much in the way of new releases from Cragganmore these days, it seems, so let’s make the most of these independent bottlings to keep the flag flying high on WF for this somewhat misunderstood distillery, while we wait for any potential official novelties.

(One of Cragganmore's flat-top spirit stills, a bit reminiscent of Dalmore's - or is it the other way round). How about we talked a bit more about stills and a little less about woods and wines, generally speaking? Just like in the good old days?

Cragganmore 20 yo 1985/2006 (53.5%, Weiser, bourbon cask)

Here’s a version for Germany from quite a few years back. Weiser is a well-known merchant from across the Rhine (from here, that is, naturally). Colour: white wine. Nose: pure class in its natural state, tons of mandarins and, brace yourselves Dutch friends, kumquats too, but all resting on a rich, oily base, very textured even on the nose. It’s absolutely lovely, especially the near-total lack of overt cask influence, a style that’s all but vanished today, sadly. They simply don’t let time take its time anymore. With water: not a jot of change, save perhaps for a touch of freshly cut hay. Mouth (neat): truly excellent, still oily, still packed with citrus fruits, to the point one might mistake it for an old Rosebank, though those were perhaps a touch lighter. With water: even more lemony, chalkier too, and shifting towards pink grapefruit, all carried by a beautifully sharp edge. Finish: very long, no major changes except a return of that fatty character, almost waxy, but not quite. Comments: you know what? Certain facets, not all but some, remind me of early 1980s Clynelish. Especially the oiliness and those mandarins. It brings to mind the McEwan method, as once described in the French press when he was still at Bowmore: fill the casks and wait a long time, all while praying daily. Of course, that’s theory versus practice… I’d also say that the rarity of this glorious style today only increases its appeal. So then...
SGP:562 - 91 points.

Let’s rewind about twenty years... You might find it a bit odd to sample an old G&M CC after a cask strength, but take a closer look, it was actually a cask strength CC as well, much like today’s CCs, just forty years earlier...

Cragganmore 18 yo 1966 (52.2%, Gordon & MacPhail, Connoisseurs Choice, old brown label, +/-1984)

A rare version, its same key characteristics, including the ABV, also appeared on another bottling under the famous ‘Cask Strength’ label. Worth noting, there was a 1966/2006 edition under G&M’s ‘Secret Stills’ label that was outrageously superlative (WF 93). Colour: gold. Nose: a touch of fine OBE at work here, in the form of metal polish and paraffin, followed by a splash of light Asian-style broth—coriander, soy sauce, coconut and so on—with, once again, wee candied mandarins over the top. It’s all immensely delicate yet the structure is remarkably solid, if not outright robust. With water: magnificent, but don’t tell G&M or they’ll think we’ve been banging on for years about them cranking up the watts, when in fact we now prefer this very version reduced. By ourselves. I love the touches of chervil and sage interwoven with citrus, and especially that whiff of bergamot. Mouth (neat): much more extroverted, back comes that Thai broth character but this time far spicier and more honeyed, while practically every citrus fruit on our little planet gathers mid-palate. Except kumquats. Just kidding—even kumquats. With water: same again, just a tad softer, leaning more towards citrus jams and honey. Finish: long, with soft peppers working wonders alongside the citrus. Comments: it’s worth knowing that within Diageo and its predecessor companies, Cragganmore has always been held in very high regard, yet oddly, that never quite translated into widespread acclaim among the thirsty and demanding masses. A real injustice!
SGP:651 - 92 points.

I haven’t checked exactly when Cragganmore switched from direct firing to steam heating, but the short stills, doubled from 2 to 4 in 1964, are probably the reason behind the distillate’s superb oily character, especially those famous ‘flat-top’ spirit stills.

(Thank you, Aaron!)

Check the index of all Cragganmore we've tasted