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| Hi, you're in the Archives, February 2026 - Part 2 |
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February 18, 2026 |
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More secrets and blended malts
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In short, we don’t know very much about what we’re going to taste, but our spirits remain undaunted. And we’re going to try sampling a few very old versions… |
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Secret Speyside 24 yo 1997/2022 (50.3%, Thompson Bros., refill barrels, 540 bottles) 
It is whispered here and there that this might be a Glenlivet, yet having no firm certainty, we shall refrain from adding it to a ‘Glenlivet’ session. Colour: light gold. Nose: more apples than on an apple tree and more pears than on a pear tree, alongside a delicate touch of beeswax and green pepper, then light honey and a little vanilla cream. With water: it does not budge. Mouth (neat): this is very much ‘Speyside without sherry’, firmly rooted in orchard fruits, especially apples, plums, pears… There is a most charming bitterness that preserves the faintly sharp edge of the whole. Hints of pistachio. With water: slightly more body, peanut oil, peanut butter, maple syrup, yet always upon a more herbaceous base that prevents it from becoming, let us say, flabby. Very good indeed. Finish: of medium length and above all very, very well balanced. Few rough edges in truth, yet that in itself is a kind of edge. I know what I’m trying to say… A light fudge lingers in the aftertaste. Comments: nothing tells us that this is not Glenlivet, yet it could just as well be many other distilleries of Speyside.
SGP:551 - 87 points. |
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St Bridget’s Kirk ‘Solera Batch #5’ (48.5%, Hannah Whisky Merchants, blended malt, fino-oloroso finish, 2025)
A very lovely series, here the fino proves rather intriguing. We do adore fino, even Tio Pepe. Colour: gold. Nose: remarkable how one feels suddenly transported into the triangle, if one may put it thus, almost to Sanlúcar. Magnificent walnuts and tobacco, together with, once again, peanut butter and pistachio paste. Truly a most handsome nose. Mouth: the walnut rules the roost, and it is a rule we could scarcely dispute, even as pepper and even chilli come quietly insinuating themselves. Also a touch of quinine. Absolutely excellent for a modest NAS. Finish: long and delightfully peppery, with tobacco and, of course, walnuts returning to haunt you for quite some time. Honey comes along to soften the whole. Comments: I do adore this magnificently dry combination.
SGP:461 - 87 points |
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Living Souls 3 yo (46.15%, Thompson Bros. x Living Souls, blended Scotch, 2025)
No idea what this might be, perhaps there is some Dornoch within? Colour: full gold. Nose: oh very lovely indeed, with wood to the fore yet remarkably well balanced, caramelised, almost candied, with plenty of apricot tart smothered in honey and cinnamon, then a waft of hay smoke. A nose almost joyful, in any case also delightfully nostalgic, speaking straight to your soul. Quite right, Living Souls! Mouth: the spices from the cask take centre stage, especially the quartet of ginger, turmeric, cinnamon and nutmeg, yet honey and dried apricots wrap it all up to perfection. It is only 3 years of age, though one is not entirely convinced that every component was quite so youthful. Finish: long, more saline now, smoky, coastal, with peat stepping firmly into the limelight. Lovely fatness, a pleasing fermentary side, and a rather charming, ever so slightly dirty edge. Comments: another 87, I fear.
SGP:555 - 87 points. |
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Secret Highland 35 yo 1985/2020 (47.4%, Mancarella for Scotch 88 Ukrainian Whisky Community, cask #13, hogshead, 88 bottles) 
A mysterious malt, yet we do know that a small number of Glenmorangie casks from those years have circulated amongst the brokers. Colour: full gold. Nose: this does evoke the coastal Highlands north of Inverness on the east coast, indeed, though it could therefore be something else, as the beeswax is rather pronounced, yet not quite sufficiently so to be Clynelish in truth, nor even Pulteney. Glenmo does seem entirely plausible. A very handsome side of yellow flowers and acacia honey, soft vanilla, brioches, banana cake, Earl Grey… In short, a nose for a lady, and that fits Glenmorangie rather well. Mouth: perhaps a shade more nervous than the distillery just mentioned might suggest, and the cask has certainly done its duty throughout these 35 years, adding plenty of herbal infusions and a faint breadcrumb note. Yet the arrival of oranges, including their candied zests, swiftly restores the balance and renders this old malt almost fresh and lively. Finish: of medium length, rather on milk chocolate filled with orange jam, with a touch of ginger, then marzipan. Comments: an excellent old malt that has certainly not spoken its final word. And that final word would, in any case, be Slava Ukraini!
SGP:551 - 88 points. |
Right then, a little step back in time… |
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Glen Avon 15 yo (57%, Gordon & MacPhail for Sestante, +/-1985) 
In certain retirement homes there are elderly Scots with long white beards who still debate the origin of these Glen Avon, whether it is Macallan, whether it is Glenfarclas, whether at times it may have been several distilleries, and then what of Avonside… Colour: full amber. Nose: it begins slightly smoky, in a barbecue fashion, even with touches of steak a little over-grilled, a faint Mortlach-style sulphur (no problems in this context, quite the contrary) followed by tonnes upon tonnes of dark nougat and turrón, beyond a certain beef stock character. With water: the sulphur becomes even more pronounced, I would have said Mortlach without hesitation – and I would probably have been wrong. Mouth (neat): superbly old-school, brimming with tobacco, mint, dried mushrooms, slightly burnt caramel, chestnut and heather honeys, dark chocolate, soy sauce, dried beef (Grisons, bresaola, jerky…) … Alas, I regret to inform you that no one makes this style of malt any longer nowadays. With water: dried fruits come charging in, figs leading the way. Finish: long and very jammy, culminating in vanilla and kirsch-laced chestnut purée. A killer. Comments: to be enjoyed whilst listening to Duke Ellington.
SGP:562 - 91 points. |
At this point, there’s no more joking, it’s time to bring out the heavy artillery… |
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Secret Speyside 45 yo 1979/2025 (50.3%, The Whisky Blues, refill bourbon hogshead, cask #12312, 91 bottles)
If you will allow, let us forget the guessing games, all the more so as at this age (that of the whisky, not our own) matters inevitably grow uncertain. Colour: full gold. Nose: it has reached the stage of herbal infusions and honeys, also pollen and beeswax, though in a restrained manner. Old apples, a light touch of cinnamon, discreet furniture polish. With water (just a drop): fine old cider, oil paint. Mouth (neat): all delicacy and subtlety, chiefly upon herbal infusions and teas. Orange biscuits, pink pepper, cinnamon… An old malt entering its murmuring phase, yet one that still has plenty to say. With water: a return of tension, thanks to our friends the oranges, which have already rescued millions of different malts in tasting sessions. Finish: of medium length, more on herbal infusions and mint tea. In short, the finale of a very old malt. Comments: it may have suffered a little after the thunderous Glen Avon, yet it nevertheless emerged with considerable panache.
SGP:561 - 89 points. |
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House of Hazelwood 47 yo (43.7%, OB, Charles Gordon Collection, blended malt, 137 bottles, 2024)
Prestige bottles, to be kept in the drinks cabinet of your 1980s Bentley. Colour: gold, truly pale given its age. Nose: marvellous on the nose, incredibly fresh, with ripe pineapple, freshly squeezed orange, mango and papaya. It is perfect just so, no need to dig further, despite the magnificent wafts of wild carrots that arrive thereafter. Mouth: I was slightly apprehensive but in truth it is utterly beautiful, with a faint and very elegant varnish, sublime bitters, citrus fruits in exuberant profusion, and fresh praline, the whole displaying not a single trace of fatigue or dryness. Very fine honeys as well. Finish: long, with coconut milk emerging straight from the old wood, gentle tobacco, well-contained bitter almonds and pistachio cream with cherry. Or pistachio-cherry pannacotta, you do know that? Comments: incredible fruitiness at this age. Forget the second-hand Bentley, for the same budget choose three bottles of this Hazelwood, if any are still available.
SGP:651 - 92 points. |
We’ll finish with an even older malt. There’s always an older one… |
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Secret Speyside 49 yo 1975/2025 (43.8%, The Whisky Blues, refill bourbon hogshead, cask #8165, 86 bottles)
Once again, what a label! Generally, these vintages are or were Glenfarclas, yet that remains mere theory. Let us move on to practice… Oh, and we do adore the screw cap, it has become the height of absolute chic. Colour: gold. Nose: sublime fragility, poised between old apples, beeswax, white bread, cider, mead, sake, even fine ladies’ soap… It is most beautiful on the nose, though such a very subtle profile can cause a little concern as regards the palate. Mouth: here we are almost walking the razor’s edge, but slightly on the right side. You see what I mean… Waxed apples, paraffin, herbal infusions, chamomile, verbena, cherry stalks, then the empresses of very old malts left in their natural state: overripe apples. Finish: not especially long yet with astonishing freshness, driven by small citrus fruits, notably bergamot. Magnificent notes of gentle mint tea and orange peel in the aftertaste. Comments: it has resisted the splendid Hazelwood perfectly, and for that alone it deserves an Olympic gold medal in ice dance (with a pronounced wink to all our American friends, whom we love and adore).
SGP:561 - 90 points. |
Sorry, no 50-year-old today, but it’ll come, stay tuned… |
(Cheers to Absolutely Nuts Spirits) |
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February 17, 2026 |
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A few Dornoch for our peaceful enjoyment |
I think that’s something of an understatement. It’s been quite a while since we last tasted any Dornoch, and they’ve rather piled up on the shelves at WF HQ. It was high time we did something about it… |
(Dornoch Castle and Distillery) |
Naturally, we wondered in what order we ought to taste them and, in a thoroughly Trumpian flourish, decided to employ a highly scientific method: at random! In any case, they’re all still more or less young… |
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Dornoch 4 yo 2019/2024 (52.2%, OB, PX octave, cask #187, 89 bottles) 
Colour: gold. Nose: rather on walnut cake and honey cake, alongside amber ale and even a touch of mead, then moving towards a curious combination of crushed slate and ginger biscuit. With water: it becomes rounder, more civilised, though the slate persists, now joined by hints of amaro and triple sec. The ginger has not entirely departed either. Mouth (neat): an amusing medley of bitter orange, mentholated tobacco and Japanese seaweed of the wakame persuasion. The PX sends in a few raisins, though with most welcome restraint. With water: citrus fruits with honey, turmeric and ginger, then increasingly leather and tobacco. Finish: fairly long, softer, more coating, more honeyed. Alas, the aftertaste turns spicier once again. Comments: the small cask makes itself known, yet the whole remains balanced. And very good indeed, of course.
SGP:651 - 84 points. |
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Dornoch 5 yo 2017/2023 (54.5%, OB for Whiskyfun’s 21st Anniversary, 1st fill bourbon octave, cask #49, 63 bottles)
That is right, our cask. We have never published a tasting note, and indeed we shall not even add a score, for that would be inelegant, would it not? Colour: pale gold. Nose: tension and freshness, green apple and grapefruit, farmhouse cider, white pepper, meadow honey. It is, of course, entirely to my taste; the contrary would be rather absurd, would it not. With water: fresh baguette (yes), banana and wildflowers, plus touches of poppy seeds and sunflower seeds. Mouth (neat): the purity of ex-bourbon, here with a fair amount of white pepper over a slightly oily side, vanilla and lemon, with touches of angelica. We remain close to the raw materials, which is always what we cherish most. With water: truly lovely, pure, in the style of the unpeated Nordics, I would say. After all, Dornoch is fairly Nordic, is it not? Finish: long, slightly dry, on barley and bread. Comments: I confess we are very pleased with this cask. Naturally, we are not selling a single bottle; some went to charitable causes and the rest, well, I scarcely recall. Obviously, we are keeping our own modest stock for future generations (should they still be drinking).
SGP: 451- -- points. |
Sorry, we’ll have to pick up the pace… (and not “the pieces”, as that marvellous Scottish band the Average White Band would have said) |
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Dornoch 4 yo 2019/2024 (58.6%, OB, for Germany, ex-bourbon, cask #180, 103 bottles)
It was Van Gogh on the label, wasn’t it? Colour: gold. Nose: close to cask WF-21 owing to the bourbon, yet rounder, perhaps easier, and also more marked by exotic fruits, mango, even more banana, and even a touch of fermented cane juice… With water: oh yes, this is very good, magnificently honeyed and spicy. Kougelhopf dough. Mouth (neat): really very good, taut yet rich and oily at the same time, on grapefruit zest and wax. With water: perfect, especially at this age. Splendid notes of oranges in all their forms. Finish: long and oily, it wraps around the mouth for quite some time. Comments: life is unfair, it is better than WF-21. In our opinion…
SGP:651 - 87 points. |
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Dornoch 6 yo 2018/2024 (52.5%, OB, ex-bourbon, cask #59, 77 bottles)
We are rather fortunate, that makes three ex-bourbons in a row drawn at random. Chance does things well. Colour: gold. Nose: blast, this is beautiful, one might almost think of Balvenie from the great years. Bananas, quinces, vanilla, honeys, mirabelles. With water: much the same, merely in a slightly different order. Mouth (neat): a bourbon side. High-class bourbon, of course. A clear line, honey, oranges, quince paste, in short everything is perfect here, I fear. With water: very, very exasperating. Finish: the same. Comments: I shall dare to assert that in certain respects, it reminds me of Daftmill. Please, put away your pistols and revolvers, we are merely saying what we think.
SGP:651 - 88 points. |
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Dornoch 5 yo 2018/2023 (57.4%, OB, refill bourbon, cask #124, 167 bottles)
I do not quite know what the label is alluding to; the colours rather bring DHL to mind, although we loathe DHL (while adoring their drivers who are in no way to blame, wink wink). Colour: gold. Nose: we are very close to the previous one. Come, let us save time… Ah yes, magnificent notes of crème brûlée. With water: earth, barley, fudge, quinces. Enough said. Mouth (neat): but how good this is! Lemon, caramel and nougat, who would have guessed that all this would marry so well… With water: more herbaceous notes, almost verging on bitterness, come to temper our enthusiasm somewhat. Finish: long, very taut, on quinine and bitter orange. A splendid oiliness surrounds it all. Comments: I confess that at one point, we were brushing against the 90 mark.
SGP:561 - 88 points. |
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Dornoch 7 yo 2018/2025 (56.5%, OB, 1st fill bourbon octave, cask #111, 83 bottles)
More ex-bourbon, what a joy! Imagine that we should stumble back upon wine, it would be dreadful for this session… Colour: full gold. Nose: quinces and liquorice. It is as though you were to say Jagger and Richards, or Page and Plant, or Lennon and McCartney, or Trump and Vance (spot the mistake). With water: petrol and acetone, really? Mouth (neat): I promise you, I swear to you, I certify that there is Jamaican rum in there. With water: it relaxes, it becomes more ‘malt’, yet something must have occurred in the life of this charming little cask. Finish: long and, this time, rather pointing towards Islay peat. Comments: we wish to have the final word of the story. Our lawyer is still on the golf course (of course), but as soon as he is back (next Wednesday), we shall send a letter. For now, a precautionary score.
SGP:563 - 85 points. |
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Dornoch 5 yo 2019/2024 (56.2%, OB, for Hideo Yamaoka, 1st fill rye octave, cask #170, 82 bottles)
Frankly, we know the Thompson Bros. rather well and I swear they are absolutely not as unattractive as on this label, which must have been created in the very earliest days of ChatGPT. On the contrary, they are rather charming chaps… Colour: gold. Nose: the grand return of smoked nougat, should such a thing exist, alongside proper rye bread. Let us admit that this nose is more attractive than the label. With water: an assortment of 123,748 different breads, as one might encounter at breakfast in five-star hotels in Vienna, Salzburg or Munich. You will tell me they also serve champagne there, for breakfasts yet more perfect. They might equally serve this little Dornoch. Mouth (neat): excellent, compact and coherent, and close to a great Islay from the 1970s, I promise you. With water: simply superb. Earth, roots, citrus fruits, waxes, smoke and so forth. Finish: Comments: no, we do not provide hotel addresses. But well played, Hideo (apart from the label, if I humbly may) …
SGP:552 - 90 points. |
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Dornoch 5 yo 2017/2023 (59.2%, OB, for Caora, 1st fill bourbon octave, cask #8, 94 bottles)
A Dornoch for Switzerland, quite close to WF Towers. I admit we are rather late here, once again. Colour: gold. Nose: the beauty and purity of ex-bourbon, once more. Unless you happen to loathe vanilla, but I know no human being, male, female, both or none, who genuinely detests a fine vanilla. Also grey pepper, bread dough and banana cake, Caribbean-style. With water: it retreats towards putty and even fresh rubber, which is in fact rather pretty and amusing. Mouth (neat): fairly oily, fairly fermentary, fairly peppery and globally spicy. Truth be told, it is rather forceful at cask strength. With water: things improve, sweet breads and waxes combine with the spices, which nevertheless remain quite pronounced. Finish: long, rather spicy. It is not because the honourable bottlers are Swiss that I shall refrain from mentioning the Basel Läckerlis. Comments: a slight rollercoaster side, yet in the end everything finds its balance around the spices.
SGP:561 - 86 points. |
Come on then, just one last one… |
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Dornoch (63.4%, James Eadie, Project 1927, spirit drink, 2025)
An incredible project built around the very heart of Scottish distillate, bringing together a few highly deserving young distilleries from the Lowlands and the Highlands of Scotland, Dornoch among them, under the guidance of James Eadie. We have not tasted them all, far from it, but the Daftmill had been superb, and so now one cannot help but anticipate, as they say… Colour: white as a wedding dress. Nose: earth, geraniums and fig leaves, lemon and citron peel, fresh croissants at five in the morning… With water: a mixture of tar and rubber emerges. All of that fits perfectly with the fig leaf, in fact… Mouth (neat): it will surprise no one that there is plenty of pear, yet green olive is rather more unexpected in a newmake. I mean in whisky. With water: very, very amusing touches of lavender, ham, capers, even school glue. Finish: not so long of course, but full-bodied, oily, and above all very fermentary. Pear and yeasts. Comments: a great newmake, it is so complex!
SGP:562 - between 85 and 90 points. |
In the end, the debate that seems fundamental to us when it comes to quality Scottish malt (leaving aside the industrial cavalry) is this: is wood malt’s best friend, or its worst enemy? Okay, good night, see you perhaps at a ‘masterclass’ on these matters (I still loathe that word; because alas, I am neither Casals nor Horowitz, nor of course Dave Broom or Charlie MacLean, without even mentioning the distillers themselves), one of these days, somewhere in Europe or Asia… But sadly not in America. |
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February 16, 2026 |
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A little trio of official Tomintoul
No fuss here, remember that Tomintoul is ‘the gentle dram’. In fact, the first time I went wild camping not far from Tomintoul, out in the heather – and more years ago than you could possibly count – I mainly made the acquaintance of the midges. But why am I telling you this? Come on then, a little aperitif to help forget that rather stinging memory…
(A very good Rosé des Riceys by the house Boizel in Epernay) |
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Tomintoul ‘Tawny Port Cask Finish’ (40%, OB, Small Batch, +/-2022) 
We have already tasted quite a few Tomintouls without an age statement and finished in all manner of assorted wines. Amarone, for example, or merlot, or pinot noir, or tempranillo… We have always had a good laugh, so let us hope it will be the same today. Colour: raspberry jelly. Nose: just as the colour suggested, it is crammed with red fruits and rather evokes a still Champagne rosé, something akin to a rosé des Riceys with its little touches of leather and tobacco and a hint of faded rose. And raspberry, naturally. Frankly, this little ready-made cocktail is rather pleasant on the nose… Mouth: certainly maltier and it is here that one realises the superiority of fortified wines over table wines when it comes to finishing. Notes of cherry-stalk infusion, a little earthy tobacco, and even fresh button mushrooms and pepper. Finish: fairly short and drier, on unsweetened black tea. Comments: perhaps my favourite of the lot. It is in fact much less driven by red fruits than I had expected.
SGP:450 - 79 points. |
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Tomintoul ‘White Port Cask Finish’ (40%, OB, Small Batch, +/-2022) 
You are quite right, I perhaps ought to have started with this one, but over here we say, “red on white, everything goes to blight, white on red, nothing moves ahead”. Naturally, in globish, the good rhyme is lost. Colour: white wine. Seriously. Nose: very aromatic indeed, on banana and pear, and even pineapple. Has some well-meaning soul slipped in a drop of amyl acetate? And a spoonful of white chocolate cream while they were at it… Yet here again, it is rather good. Orange wafers. Mouth: I prefer this baby to its red companion, it feels closer on the palate to a light but ‘proper’ malt, with the wafers returning alongside fruit skins, especially peach. A faint touch of Fanta Lemon. Finish: rather short, on yellow fruit smoothies, with green tea in the aftertaste, gently drying the whole. Comments: frankly, I quite like it. And it confirms our famous proverb mentioned above.
SGP:551 - 80 points. |
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Tomintoul 14 yo 2011/2025 (63.5%, OB for SG60, bourbon barrel, cask #3482, 247 bottles)
An official bottling to celebrate the sixtieth anniversary of Singapore, done under the guidance of several prestigious bars, including the Quaich Bar and The Auld Alliance. All should therefore go splendidly, even if one does wonder, given that new make is generally run into cask at 63.5%, how not even a tenth of a degree has been lost over 14 years. Nor gained, for that matter, as that can happen too. Colour: straw. Nose: it is a little hot, even slightly fierce, yet we detect dandelion, hay, fresh malt and overripe apple. All this bodes pretty well, let us see… With water: yellow cherry, gooseberry, acacia honey, zucchini flowers… and always that dandelion, along with other yellow flowers. It is floral! Mouth (neat): strictly between us, I might not have kept the mention ‘The Gentle Dram’ upon this label, for it is very lively, sharp, rather lemony and packed with small green fruits. Apples included, naturally. Water should tame all this… With water: homemade apple juice, orange blossom water, light peppermint… It has not exactly become meek as a lamb, but there is now a very pretty multifloral honey. Finish: long, fairly brisk, more lemony. The apple returns with a vengeance. Comments: obviously very good and, above all, very ‘natural’.
SGP:551 - 86 points. |
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February 15, 2026 |
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A word of caution
Let me please remind you that my humble assessments of any spirits are done from the point of view of a malt whisky enthusiast who, what's more, is aboslutely not an expert in rum, brandy, tequila, vodka, gin or any other spirits. Thank you – and peace! |
Nine superb Armagnacs to lift our spirits |
And I promise you it won’t just be the effect of the alcohol. In any case, it’s always a great pleasure to taste Armagnacs after Cognacs, even if the slightly more ‘modern’ styles currently in vogue in both regions – a little closer to malt whiskies, in fact – seem to have brought them somewhat closer together in recent years, at least to my mind. In short, fewer notes of raisins, flowers and stewed apricots in the Cognacs, and less pipe tobacco, dark chocolate and prunes in the Armagnacs.
There is also the growing use of batch distillation in Armagnac, or so it seems to me… although I’ve just read that it still accounts for less than 5% of production. In any case, between a Cognac Folle Blanche and an Armagnac Folle Blanche, both distilled in batches, there is no longer all that much difference. Well then, it’s time to taste a few Armagnacs, with quite a number of young ones this time. |
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This adorable little Alsatian girl stands guard
at Château Saint-Aubin. At least they didn’t put up a giant bretzel. (Saint-Aubin) |
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Château Saint-Aubin 4 yo (âge 4) (43%, OB, Bas-Armagnac, 2025)
An estate of 55 hectares, 36 of which are devoted to Armagnac, owned by an Alsatian family, just imagine! There we are, five extra points (wink). The house is located in Réans, in the Eauze area, right in the heart of the Gers. In any case, this Saint-Aubin has absolutely nothing to do with the famous Burgundies. This 4-year-old is a blend of ugni blanc and colombard. Colour: deep gold. Nose: notes of eucalyptus, mint, pine sap and camphor bustle at the gate to begin with, before allowing plenty of cracked pepper and liquorice wood to come through, while the fruitiness, though clearly present, remains slightly in the background. I find the overall effect rather splendid, truth be told. Mouth: this time it is the fruits that take the leading roles, especially mandarins and oranges, which quickly combine with notes of that Italian drink with the provocatively red colour that begins with the letter C. Then we have touches of fresh oak and ginger-flavoured toffee. It is very modern, and I find it very good indeed. Finish: long, with fairly spicy oak in command, followed by bitter orange that comes along to bring everyone into agreement. Comments: hopla geiss! (that’s meant to be Alsatian).
SGP:461 - 86 points. |
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Château de Millet 5 yo ‘VSOP’ (42%, OB, Bas Armagnac, +/-2025)
Armagnac remains a rather free territory, you see sometimes they write Bas-Armagnac, sometimes Bas-armagnac, and sometimes Bas Armagnac without a hyphen, as here. In any case we are once again in Eauze and here we have pure baco. Colour: full gold. Nose: here we find a completely different style, much more on black nougat, fudge, caramel, praline, but also wood varnish and liquorice. The touches of Williams pear that arrive thereafter render it rather irresistible, one could happily dive straight in. Mouth: once again less marked by the wood, thus with more reddish (roux) casks I imagine, bringing it closer to candied fruits, cassata, panettone and even the proverbial prunes. It is therefore less modern but frankly, I adore it. Finish: long, more liquorice-led as is often the case, with a very slight mentholated touch thereafter. Aniseed emerges in the aftertaste, for a very end of palate that is fresh as a daisy. Comments: a very young armagnac of great beauty but do be careful, it slips down rather easily.
SGP:551 - 87 points. |
In short, a truly striking contrast in style, one to recommend to beginners who think these brandies are all much the same… Let’s carry on… |
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Cloud & Clet ‘XO’ (40%, OB, Bas-Armagnac, +/-2025)
A 10-year-old pure baco and a fairly recent brand it would seem, proclaiming “the renewal of Armagnac”, as indeed they all tend to do whenever a new generation takes up the torch. And that is all very well. Here we are on a 100-hectare estate in Mauléon-d’Armagnac, the only thing that strikes us as slightly odd, for a ‘modern’ armagnac, being the bottling strength of 40% vol., especially for an XO. Colour: full gold. Nose: this one is much rounder, much fruitier, much more jammy, much more aromatic, yet without any heaviness. One might almost think of gewurztraminer marc aged in oak and topped up with orange liqueur, although that impression soon evaporates to make way for stewed peaches and sultanas. If the palate is not overly syrupy, we once again have a superb young Bas-Armagnac. Mouth: well no, I mean yes, we most certainly still have a very fine armagnac, fresh and joyful, brimming with fruit, peaches, apples, pears, mirabelles, apricots, and many more besides. Light honey. Finish: not even short, and tending somewhat, I assure you, towards young Macallan from the 1970s. Indeed, indeed. Comments: I must confess the design of the bottle had worried me slightly, but the armagnac inside swiftly made up for that first impression.
SGP:641 - 87 points. |
Do note, this is a Haut-Armagnac, which is not all that common… |
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Château Arton 2015/2026 ‘La Flamme’ (47.6%, OB, Haut-Armagnac)
Here we have a blend of ugni blanc and colombard, thus a rather Cognac-like composition if I am not mistaken, bottled this year at cask strength. I rather like the statement on the back label: “This is NOT brandy”. We shall endeavour to remember that, guilty as charged. In any case, we are here in Lectoure, with the Montal-Montesquiou family. The estate is in biodynamic conversion, though that of course does not yet apply to this 2015. Colour: deep gold. Nose: this one is far more pâtissier than the others to begin with, on almond cake, buttery croissants, custard… Notes of white wine then arrive (chardonnay matured in oak), but also raisins, with a few touches of PX from Jerez. Stewed quince then comes along to gather it all together. A dessert armagnac? Mouth: it starts straight away on apple, whether stewed or distilled, with a slightly green and taut tannicity that then leads towards lemon zest. I had feared, once again, an excess of roundness, but not at all, I was wrong yet again. I also confess to finding notes of single malt with a northern Highlands side and there, I assure you, I am quite right. Indeed. Finish: long, with very ripe and caramelised apple returning with some force, accompanied by its companion pear. Comments: it is excellent.
SGP:651 - 87 points. |
A fairly tight cluster for now, but that’s only to be expected: the BNIA had, in a way, preselected these four very fine young Armagnacs for me. They’re good at the BNIA (Bureau National Interprofessionnel de l’Armagnac) – very good indeed… Right then, if we’re tasting the very young VS that follows after the others, it’s because of its considerably higher bottling strength… |
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Domaine d’Espérance ‘VS’ (52.5%, OB, Bas Armagnac, 2024)
This is the estate of the delightful Countess Claire de Montesquiou, a descendant, so I am told, of the genuine d’Artagnan, Musketeer of the King. The back label is in fact a veritable novel, from which we learn that this small VS is a blend of five casks, one folle blanche 2022 #250, two baco 2022 #291 & 154, and two baco 2020, #332 & 336. And if that interests you, the latter two were 500 litre casks, whereas the others were 200 litre ones. The still is fitted with 8 plates, so that should purify things rather well. It is also at natural cask strength, and for the sake of completeness, I have absolutely adored the Espérances I have previously tasted, though they were all much older than this modest VS. Modest? Let us see about that… Colour: full gold. Nose: purified? Well no, we are propelled straight into Sutherland, somewhere between Brora and Wick, more or less, with a pronounced fatness, more beeswax than in a hive, and a compote of apple, pear and quince softened with heather honey. And a very slight sea breeze. With water: the water works wonders, bringing out both more fruits and some earth. Mouth (neat): a formidable sharpness, allied to that oily side we cherish so much. A swordsman as fine as its musketeer ancestor, with orchard fruits as pointed as his famous blade. But let us keep things simple: greengage, apple, gooseberry and small green pear. With water: and here come the roots, liquorice, gentian, celeriac, even raw turnip. And the wines. Finish: long and taut, now very much on the vegetables. And the earth… Comments: if I dared, I would use one of those terrifying barbarisms of which we at WF HQ have the secret: it is a true maltagnac. I know, it is dreadful, I willingly offer my apologies.
SGP:461 - 88 points. |
We need a Ténarèze, don’t we? … And now we’ll move on to some older Armagnacs… |
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Château Le Courréjot 2005/2024 (55%, Hootch, Ténarèze, cask #64, 98 bottles)
Pure ugni blanc from Condom-en-Armagnac and from a single cask. Cask strength, naturally. Colour: gold. Nose: tonnes of marzipan steeped in eau-de-vie, that is what strikes first. Then come the natural, rustic notes, fresh hay, sautéed mushrooms, forest honey, followed by an improbable yet magnificent combination of dill and fir needles. The whole is beautifully balanced and far more complex than it first appears. With water: it does not move an inch, you may simply add a small touch of fresh putty. Mouth (neat): this is simply too good! An explosion of orange blossom honey and fir bud liqueur, with almost a hint of old Sauternes about it. With water: it remains as immovable as a Norman wardrobe, as we say, this time with just a little liquorice joining the festivities. Finish: and it carries on; it is a rock. Orange honey continues to take the leading role for quite some time. An aniseed touch in the aftertaste, as so often, which neatly loops back to the dill on the nose. Comments: a Ténarèze as stubborn as a native of the Gers. I allow myself to say so as I have family in the Gers. Magnificent beast.
SGP:651 - 90 points. |
Hmm, how to respond? Perhaps with this… |
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Domaine d’Espérance 2006/2025 ’Folle Blanche’ (50.5%, OB, Bas-Armagnac, cask #51)
Colour: golden amber. Nose: whereas the VS was nervous and modern, here we are faced with an armagnac in the old style, marked by Darjeeling, a cabinetmaker’s workshop, dark chocolate, dried ceps or morels?), and even a few mentholated and terpenic wafts. I would add that it is very beautiful, almost Grand Siècle in style. With water (just a wee drop): touches of crushed slate and mosses, though this is merely decorative, the whole scarcely changes. Mouth (neat): but how close it is to the previous Ténarèze! The same vigorous honeys, orange blossom water, menthol and liquorice, light varnish notes… With water: sour cherry bursts forth, along with its companion kirsch, yet without the slightest vulgarity naturally. Finish: long, with that tension so appreciable in the finest French, err, brandies. Apologies. A very slight chouchen side, though then it would be the finest chouchen in Brittany, thus in the world. Perhaps a hint of olive oil in the far aftertaste. Comments: as we sometimes say, we would require a double magnum of each to manage to decide between the previous one and this one. We agree, that would not be reasonable.
SGP:651 - 90 points. |
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Domaine de Danis 39 yo 1985/2025 (47.1%, Armagnac.de, Ténarèze, cask #40, 2026)
Folle blanche, as always at Danis, distilled in a travelling still (alambic ambulant). I should add that many producers in Armagnac still do just that. Colour: dark red amber. Nose: at this age the wood plays a greater role and it shows, with a whole assortment of fruitwoods, cherrywood for instance, or rather wild cherry. Quite naturally there then arise kirsch-like notes, marzipan, followed by eucalyptus wood on a very hot summer’s day (only joking) and dried fruits, especially figs. A very fine example of a nose that ‘converges’, according to the theory that old spirits, whatever their raw materials may have been, tend increasingly to resemble one another with age. Mouth: the fruits put up some resistance, though in a more candied, almost ultra-ripe guise. Figs again, also dates and, above all, Corinth raisins. And Cointreau. And a little fir liqueur… Finish: much the same, with the oak gathering strength once more, on black tea and bitter chocolate. Comments: we are approaching a tipping point here, and it is as moving as an ageing Hollywood actress who still has plenty to say. Well, you see what I mean… Superb in any case.
SGP:561 - 90 points. |
It may be time to bring this gallop to an end; in any case, we’ll soon have plenty more Armagnacs to come… |
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Bas-Armagnac 1963/2025 (45.8%, The Antelope, cask #DB1021, 73 bottles)
A somewhat mysterious bottling, does ‘DB’ stand for Domaine de Baraillon? Pure speculation, do not dwell on it, in any case it has been a long time since we last saw any Baraillon pass our way, I do hope they are well as we adored their armagnacs in the highest degree. Colour: deep red amber. Nose: superb and even compact, with compotes rather than jams, peaches in syrup, dried figs, chestnut honey, plus those light old-fashioned metallic touches, the sort one finds in grandmother’s ancient copper cauldron. Gentle wafts of moss and mushrooms as well. A touch of liquorice plays the part of the sheepdog here, ensuring the whole flock remains neatly together. A very, very beautiful nose. Mouth: we cross a threshold here, it is sublime with mint, olives, liquorice, tobacco… Above all, the small herbs insinuate themselves, verbena, wormwood, genepy, all under the watchful eye of the liquorice, just as on the nose. It is simply extraordinary. Finish: only now do touches of old oak step forward proudly, yet never causing the slightest disturbance. Thin mints, strongly infused mint tea, dark chocolate… Only the aftertaste shows a faint tannic edge, which is more than normal. Comments: this is deeply impressive and even if I do not know whether this baby spent those 62 or 63 years in cask or finished its life in demijohn, it is truly an ode to the passing of time. Remember, the number one ingredient, the most sacred of all, remains time. Incredible Bas-Armagnac. And so, what is it exactly?
SGP:661 - 92 points. |
We’ll stop there, and although all these Armagnacs were ‘selected’ in one way or another, and we took great care to avoid the run-of-the-mill, we are nonetheless very impressed by the overall standard.
See you soon – stay tuned. |
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Best spirits Serge tried those weeks, 90+ points only
Dornoch 5 yo 2019/2024 (56.2%, OB, for Hideo Yamaoka, 1st fill rye octave, cask #170, 82 bottles)
Glen Avon 15 yo (57%, Gordon & MacPhail for Sestante, +/-1985)
House of Hazelwood 47 yo (43.7%, OB, Charles Gordon Collection, blended malt, 137 bottles, 2024)
Secret Speyside 49 yo 1975/2025 (43.8%, The Whisky Blues, refill bourbon hogshead, cask #8165, 86 bottles)
Château Le Courréjot 2005/2024 (55%, Hootch, Ténarèze, cask #64, 98 bottles)
Domaine de Danis 39 yo 1985/2025 (47.1%, Armagnac.de, Ténarèze, cask #40, 2026)
Domaine d’Espérance 2006/2025 ’Folle Blanche’ (50.5%, OB, Bas-Armagnac, cask #51)
Bas-Armagnac 1963/2025 (45.8%, The Antelope, cask #DB1021, 73 bottles)
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