| |
| |
September 1, 2025 |
|
  |
WF’s Little Duos, today two secret Lowlanders
The consensus is that these are Glenkinchies, but I get the impression no one would stake their reputation on it. As for me, I must humbly admit that I’m quite incapable of recognising Glenkinchie with any real certainty in a blind tasting. |
|
Distilled at a Lowland Distillery 9 yo 2013/2023 (56.5%, Watt Whisky, ruby port finish, Taiwan exclusive, 314 bottles) 
With ruby Port, we might brace ourselves for a raspberry avalanche, mightn’t we? This finishing stage lasted a rather substantial 19 months. Colour: ripe apricot. Nose: the port’s very much in charge, make no mistake. Strawberry tart, blueberry muffins, overripe damsons, and those sticky nut-and-fruit cakes that occasionally pop up at village fêtes… Even that famous cherry beer our Belgian friends concoct, the Kriek, which we’re rather fond of, though that fondness earns us sniggers and scorn from said Belgian friends. With water: shifts a little towards cherry cake soaked in syrup. Mouth (neat): finishing turned up to eleven, frankly this is more Port with a dram of whisky than the other way ‘round. Now I’m not saying it’s not good, but you do need to be fully committed to the red fruit agenda. Utterly committed. With water: this is where the crux lies—it’s wildly improbable, yet rather well executed. Altogether a new sort of Caledonian–Lusitanian hybrid spirit, perhaps. Finish: long, jammy, richly fruity. The cherries call the tune throughout. Comments: now go on, try slapping a score on this! Please don’t take it too seriously …
SGP:751 - 85 points. |
|
Lowland Single Malt 11 yo 2013/2025 (57.5%, Cadenhead, Enigma, refill oloroso finish, 1,590 bottles)
A refill cask, which might offer a welcome reprieve from the razzmatazz of the Ruby (My Dear, ha). Colour: gold. Nose: rather charming, on fig cake and pistachio nougat, with a touch of that mandarin liqueur our Belgian friends—yes, them again—do so well. They call it Mandarine Napoléon, which suggests they’ve rather forgiven old Boney. Well, perhaps we’re reading too much into it… With water: much the same. Not terribly complex but spot-on in terms of aromatic balance. A touch of maltiness and something akin to beer make a quiet appearance. Mouth (neat): this is very good, well-balanced, delightfully creamy, slightly liqueur-like, again that duet of candied citrus peel and dried figs singing in fine harmony. With water: a little more citrusy tension, quite proper, edging towards something almost refreshing, though let’s not get carried away. Finish: of medium length but gentle, more on honeyed softness, though the citrus, figs, honey, and a pinch of spice—mulled wine style—still lead the dance. Comments: a draw in Campbeltown, as it were.
SGP:651 - 85 points. |
 |
August 2025 |
Serge's favourite recent bottling this month:
Clynelish 28 yo 1996/2025 (49.9%, Casky Hong Kong & Kanpakai Japan, Finest Selection, refill bourbon hogshead, cask #11444, 171 bottles) - WF 91
Serge's favourite older bottling this month:
Pride of Strathspey 1959–1960/1986 (40%, Gordon & MacPhail, Royal Marriage Prince Andrew and Sarah Ferguson) - WF 92
Serge's favourite bang for your buck this month:
Wormtub 10 yo ‘Batch 5’ (56.1%, Atom Brands, sherry cask finish, 2024) - WF 88
Serge's favourite malternative this month:
Monymusk 17 yo 2007/2024 (52.3%, Art Malts, MariGold Series, Jamaica) - WF 91
Serge's thumbs up this month:
Isle of Raasay 5 yo 2019/2025 (61.1%, The Maclean Foundation, charity bottling, release 3, cask #557, 246 bottles) - WF 90
Serge's Lemon Prize this month:
Oliver’s Exquisito 1995 (40%, OB, Dominican Republic, +/-2025) - WF 25 |
| |
August 31, 2025 |
|
|
|
|
A word of caution
Let me please remind you that my humble assessments of any spirits are done from the point of view of a malt whisky enthusiast who, what's more, is aboslutely not an expert in rum, brandy, tequila, vodka, gin or any other spirits. Thank you – and peace! |
A few rums to make summer last a little longer
A harmless headline, really.
(The saucy marketing strategy of Dictador at trade shows and expos used to be very much aligned with current global political trends. Now we'll have a good expression today...) |
 |
|
Oliver’s Exquisito 1995 (40%, OB, Dominican Republic, +/-2025) 
Evidently, at 40% vol. this feels cheap and rather 'inflated' from a marketing perspective. It's a solera, so the vintage is pure nonsense in normal situations. In short, little hope here, and that's precisely why we relegated it to apéritif duty. The good news, such as it is, is that it's 'small batch'. Colour: deep gold. Nose: not too dreadful, actually—some aubergines, furniture polish, and a medley of cane and maple syrups. But as we all know with these heavily 'doctored' rums, it's really the palate that tells the tale… Mouth: alright, not monstrously sweet, but still unbalanced, caramelised, and fairly vulgar. Finish: short, sugary, unpleasant. Comments: as a rule, when you see such a rum in a decanter, walk away. In fact, this stuff is rather awful - than 'exquisito'.
SGP:630 – 25 points. |
|
Don Papa ‘Alon’ (40%, OB, Philippines, +/-2025)
The brand once languished in the lower dungeons of WF, but I must admit the Diageo takeover did manage to lift it somewhat, particularly with the 'Sherry Cask Finish' version, which wasn’t half bad at all (WF 81). Of course, purely personal opinions. This Alon is labelled as 'single island', which is rather amusing, and you'll definitely need a sturdy pair of sunglasses to admire the label in full blazing glory. But mind you, this isn't rum, it's a 'spirit drink', as discreetly stated in the tiniest possible font on a far-flung corner of the aforementioned label. If only we’d noticed that sooner! Colour: gold. Nose: a touch putrid at first, with notes of boiled leeks, stale pepper, last week's open ginger tonic, and a whole lot of nutmeg. Very strange, very deviant. Mouth: let’s not linger—this is a sort of spiced liqueur you might conceivably consume with 60% prosecco, 30% Perrier, and an Everest of crushed ice. Finish: not overly long but long enough to let all that sugar come blaring through. Comments: makes the little Exquisito seem almost brilliant in comparison. As for this Alon, one would do well to leave it… alone (that’s dreadful, S.) That said, even this is a matter of personal taste, and I’m sure there are passionate advocates of this concoction. And they’re absolutely right.
SGP:860 – 9 points. |
|
Havana Club (48%, OB for The Whisky Exchange, Cuba, barrel no.111968, 165 bottles)
Common owners Pernod Ricard at the helm here, one expects a rather handsome Cuban rum. Colour: deep gold. Nose: there’s something subtle about great Cuban rums that reappears here—a delicate floral edge, discreet yet present sugarcane, soft elements akin to nougat and coconut balls, and inevitably, wafts of cigar box, with a touch of aniseed and cedarwood à la Romeo & Julietta. Mouth: sweet but not cloying, sugary but far from syrupy, more on orange liqueurs at first, then increasingly dominated by maple syrup. Maple is often cited, but here it truly reigns supreme. Do note, however, that the last time we were in Cuba, we didn’t spot a single maple tree. Finish: a tad short but soft and pleasant, with a charming liquorice-laced aftertaste and a bit more tannic grip. Comments: this is really very good indeed, within this style.
SGP:651 – 86 points. |
|
Dictador 22 yo 1999/2021 ‘Episodio 1’ (43%, OB, Dominican Republic, Colombia, Port cask, 903 bottles) 
Right, rumour has it that it's currently the favourite brand of a certain someone in D.C., even though they're supposed to be teetotal.… Colour: deep red amber. Nose: lovely! Coffee and praline, maple syrup, cigar box, beef stock… It’s truly a delightful nose, and quite unexpected, truth be told. A touch of mentholated tar on top, hooray. Mouth: and it doesn’t collapse in the slightest, it’s simply crammed full of all sorts of dried raisins, liquorice, and tar. The whole thing comes together rather well and even veers towards smoky bacon and American-style BBQ sauce. Finish: fairly long, smoky, nicely on rubber and tar, with a salty aftertaste. Comments: the brand once had a habit of parading scantily clad hostesses at festivals, which may have been eye-catching but did the juice no favours. At any rate, this one is very charming indeed—we’re frankly surprised. The smoky bacon touch is quite spectacular.
SGP:652 – 83 points. |
|
Jamaica Single Cask Rum 9 yo 2015/2024 '<>H' (65%, Dr Whisky, Hong Kong, 90 bottles)
According to the label, cats seem to continue their reign over the Asian spirits scene, which is excellent news, as we’ve got five of them at WF Towers. Colour: gold. Nose: but of course—inner tube, acetone, varnish, seawater, cider vinegar, nail polish… With water: varnish, vinegar and tar racing in at full tilt. Mouth (neat): this will scorch and strip your throat if you’re not careful, but otherwise, it’s rather beautiful. Honestly, this stuff ought to be illegal. With water: rather in the WP style, though I wouldn’t bet my hand on it as the marque clearly suggests this is Hampden. Still pretty brutal and extreme, even with generous dilution. Hints of leek. Finish: long, very salty, tarry, extreme. Comments: this baby is properly mad, we’re likely brushing up against the limits of civilisation here.
SGP:273 – 87 points. |
|
Isautier 2011/2024 (59.4%, Swell de Spirits, Wild Series, Réunion, agricole, ‘RVA’, 316 bottles)
Pure cane juice, aged on-site in a former Cognac cask. We’ve tasted some superb official agricole Isautiers in the past. Colour: amber. Nose: a touch strong at first, but reveals a lovely blend of fresh tar and yellow flowers, even lilies, all rather splendid. With water: beautiful humid earth and hints of cardamom with flickers of acetone. Mouth (neat): very strong, which almost lends it a young Willett rye kind of vibe. Varnish, fermented coconut, salted liquorice, and heaps of ethanol. With water: the rumness takes charge—sugarcane, esters, cacao, and a pronounced nocino note… Finish: long, with the liquorice taking centre stage, followed by hints of aniseed. Comments: it absolutely needs water, they ought to bundle it with a 1.5l bottle of Vittel (so, where’s that famous cheque, Nestlé?)
SGP:462 – 87 points. |
|
Clarendon 2009/2024 (58.9%, The Wild Parrot, Jamaica, LMDW Foundations, Bog Estate mark) 
Bog Estate is the EMB marque, so around 150 g/hlpa of esters, which is fairly light, though nothing is ever linear in this domain. Yes, it’s just like peat. Colour: gold. Nose: as the saying goes, when it’s there, it’s there. The esters are indeed very present—acetone, carbon, and a basaltic side, almost like scorched volcanic slag after a first rainfall. Then come olives and ultra-ripe fruits. With water: more carbon, fresh concrete, and seawater… Mouth (neat): oh, this is good, loaded with glue, indeed, but also mentholated salty liquorice. 150g? You don’t say. With water: superbly dry and salty. Black olive tapenade packed with anchovies and, naturally, loads of black olives, lifted by a squeeze of lemon. Finish: same story, very precise, fantastically dry and bitter. We love this. Comments: a real beast, truly, love at first sniff. But only 150g? Really?
SGP:462 – 90 points. |
We’re staying at Clarendon… |
|
Monymusk 17 yo 2007/2024 (52.3%, Art Malts, MariGold Series, Jamaica)
Colour: white wine. That suggests likely ageing in Europe. Nose: we’re in similar territory to the previous one in terms of profile, though this feels like a more stripped-back version, almost austere, on seawater, diesel and lemon. That said, the citrus, and even vineyard peaches, begin to push their way to the fore. A very elegant nose. With water: Riesling is often cited, but here we’re squarely in ultra-mineral Riesling territory, with fresh fruits in support. Mouth (neat): incredible balance between solvent tension, liquorice, and ultra-ripe yellow fruits. Razor-sharp precision. With water: this gets dangerous, it’s that good. We weren’t surprised, but… well, we are surprised. Finish: long, pinpoint, very mineral and solvent-led, with most of the fruit stripped away. Magnificent purity. Comments: I won’t start speculating on the benefits of European ageing—I wouldn’t want four shady blokes in a black Mercedes S-Class turning up at WF Towers…
SGP:463 – 91 points. |
|
Jamaica Single Cask Rum 10 yo 2014/2024 ‘<>H’ (66.4%, Dr. Whisky, Jamaica, 114 bottles)
A bottling for a group of bars and other rather distinguished establishments in Hong Kong, much like the previous version we tasted just moments ago. The ‘<>H’ mark suggests Hampden’s <H>, so around 1,000 g/hlpa of esters if that’s indeed the case. Colour: gold. Nose: a blast of UHU and Pattex glues, 50/50, followed by olives and dried seaweed of the nori variety. And, well, 66%+ alc/vol. With water: papier mâché, tar, plasticine, fresh plaster and seawater, along with a few crabs and shellfish. Mouth (neat): a cracking little salty monster, lemony and petrol-laced. Water isn’t optional in cases like this. With water: not much change, truth be told, just more manageable on the intake. Finish: very long, very salty, very solventy, and once again the trademark olives ride to the rescue. Comments: it really does give that full-on Ardbeg-of-rum feeling. Cracking bottle—they’re lucky in Hong Kong.
SGP:463 – 91 points. |
The Clarendon was more elegant, the Hampden more powerful and imposing, but in my view, both are firmly in the same top tier. Right, we'll leave it there, until next time. |
 Check the index of all rums we've tasted
|
| |
August 30, 2025 |
|
|
|
Angus's Corner
From our correspondent and
skilled taster Angus MacRaild in Scotland
New Springbank 5yo plus sparring partner
There's a new Springbank 5 year old 100 proof out, a combination of factors that could have been deliberately put together with me in mind - though I feel confident we can say with maximum certainty that it was not ;) Let's try it today alongside a suitable, if somewhat leftfield sparring partner... |
 |
|
|
 |
Springbank 5 yo '100 proof' (57.1%, OB, 2025) 
Composed of 100% bourbon casks, although not too sure if everything was first fill. Colour: pale straw. Nose: an abundance of fresh breads and citrus notes. Yeasty sourdough starter, wool, fresh linens and white flowers. Then lemon barley water and impressions of bay leaf, citrus curds, heathery floral notes and some firmer mineral and stone qualities that nod towards waxiness. The very epitome of excellent young malt whisky. With water: lighter and almost feathery, more focussed around cereals, breads, pressed flowers, wool, ink and mineral oil. Mouth: fantastic! Pure Springbank distillate character, very waxy and much oily and more emphatic than the nose suggested, going here much more decisively towards lemon waxy notes, chalk, clay, sheep wool, delicate medicinal tones and wild coastal flowers. There's also a slightly sharp, white stone fruitiness and fermentary side that makes me think of old Glen Grant 5yo 100 proof bottlings. With water: gets bone dry, even salty and superbly coastal now, lemon juice on sheep wool, watercress, white pepper and a trace of brittle peat smoke. Finish: good length, warming and peppery, with impressions of warm draff, old school ales, chalky and still those persistently bright lemony notes. Comments: It's true that I adore this distillate-dominated sort of profile, but even with that caveat, I think this is top notch, uber-charismatic young malt whisky in the very best sense. Swings a wrecking ball through most of these frankly embarrassing NAS wine finished things that clutter up whisky these days. That being said, it also demonstrates that in order to be able to release young, unvarnished, high strength bottlings such as this, you need the sort of distillate that can stand on its own.
SGP: 462 - 88 points. |
|
|
Not sure this sparring partner makes much sense, but we aren't exactly spoilt for choice with 5yo Springbank bottlings just lying about the place... |
|
|
 |
Springbank 5 yo 1993/1998 (61.2%, Adelphi, cask #324) 
We can only assume some kind of uber active sherry cask was deployed here... Colour: deep ruby. Nose: soy sauce, beef jerky and teriyaki! We know from a few other bottlings that Mitchells had filled a parcel of very active first fill port casks in the early 1990s, could this be one of those? There are certainly some pretty porty impressions going on: ruby and crusted port notes, cassis, blackcurrant cough drops, then more tertiary, earthy and rooty characteristics underneath that. A strong impression of some Springbank character despite such a heavy drape of cask influence. With water: blackcurrant, brambles, fig jam, plum wine and aniseed. This gentle impression of children's medicine such as Calpol in the background too. Mouth: extremely powerful upon arrival! You do tend to feel the alcohol, but there's also a wealth of sweet liquorice, black jack chew sweets, aniseed, cough syrup, herbal ointments, Buckfast, celery salts, cocktail bitters, dried tarragon, resinous hardwoods and strong, black tea. The nose seems like a distant cousin by comparison in terms of power! With water: full on blackcurrant cordial, red fruit cough syrups, dried mint, eucalyptus, aged porter beer, subtle traces of peat, some walnut oil and more strong notes of aniseed and liquorice. Also a feeling of aged Fernet Branca too. Extremely potent and dominated by these herbal, medicinal and rooty characteristics. Finish: long, on bitter artichoke liqueurs, black pepper, teas, rich earthy tones and more things like bramble wine, natural tar and fir wood resins. Comments: extreme and also extremely fun. What I really quite enjoy is that you still find the Springbank peeping out from those inky depths. I would really love to know if this was indeed one of those hyper active port hoggies? Also, in the end, it turned out to be a pretty perfect sparring partner for that new 5yo. Although, it's one of those drams that's extremely hard to score, please take mine with a pinch of salt.
SGP: 662 - 87 points. |
|
|
| |
August 29, 2025 |
|
|
WF’s Little Duos, more Tamnavulin and more wine
Several distilleries have made a speciality of releasing NAS (No Age Statement) versions enhanced with table wine, and Tamnavulin is one of them. We've already tasted quite a few, some of which were actually fairly decent. This time it's going to be grenache, though we can’t be sure it’ll be Rayas, now can we. Then we’ll go in search of a small independent...
(Grenache, Jules Troncy, public domain) |
 |
|
Tamnavulin ‘Red Wine Cask Edition – Spanish Grenache Cask Finish’ (40%, OB, +/-2022) 
Ah alright, it is Spanish, so we should really say garnacha rather than grenache. One must be aware that grenache is a grape variety originally from Aragón, and certainly not from Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Amen. Colour: gold (not pink). Nose: not bad at all, not overly marked by red fruits, rather going towards very ripe peach. A little jasmine and potpourri here and there, otherwise it's malt and ale speaking. I quite like it so far – do note this is a bottle priced under 30 Euros. Mouth: more vinous on the palate and truth be told, it slightly recalls certain white Châteauneufs-du-Pape, with a somewhat weighty structure. Some notes of stewed blueberry and wild strawberry, with a muffin-like edge. Finish: not so short, malty and jammy. Comments: do keep in mind that grenache is not solely red, there are white and grey (rosé) variants as well. At any rate, I do quite like this well-assembled little Tamnavulin.
SGP:551 - 80 points. |
|
Tamnavulin 13 yo 2011/2024 ‘Moscatel Port Pipe’ (51.2%, Cut Your Wolfe Lose, 470 bottles)
Finished for two years in this intriguing Moscatel Port Pipe. One cannot legally make Port from Moscatel alone, but there is the excellent ‘Moscatel do Douro’, and I imagine that’s what we’re dealing with here. Or perhaps it was Moscatel destined to be blended into white Port? Lovely artwork by ZombieSqueegee, a welcome change from all those invasive AI renderings, the sort that go ‘a whisky drinker riding a pink dolphin through a cloud-strewn sky, chased by angry apricots’. Well, you get the idea. Colour: pale gold. Nose: fresh and crunchy muscat grapes arrive alongside grapefruit and lemon zest, which balance things out rather smartly. The whole thing is faintly reminiscent of a very young Rosebank from back in the day, all lemon brightness with a bit of plum in the background. With water: lemon streusel. Mouth (neat): much fresher and tighter than malts finished in Moscatel from Andalucía, or so it seems to me. We’re finding citrus, greengages, and also a faint fizziness, almost like ginger tonic. With water: not much change, save for a little green tea joining the chorus. Finish: medium in length, slightly fermentary and acidic, which suits it well. Comments: I must say, this is a proper success. I’ll admit the word ‘Moscatel’ gave me pause.
SGP:651 - 84 points. |
| |
August 28, 2025 |
|
|
WF’s Little Duos, today
Glenfiddich again, 16 vs 30 |
Right, after Bowmore, Aston Martin has chosen Glenfiddich as a co-branding partner. We’ve already talked about that, but we hadn’t actually tasted anything yet. Here’s our chance, especially since we also wanted to revisit the old 30-Year-Old which, when it was released twenty years ago, left us feeling a little underwhelmed. It must be said that the 40% ABV really didn’t help… |
 |
|
Glenfiddich 16 yo ‘Aston Martin’ (43%, OB, American oak, 2025)
Apparently, this one’s the result of a tie-in with the Aston Martin Formula 1 team. Colour: deep gold. Nose: very nice, very civilised, rather on vanilla fudge and praline, apple tart, multifloral honey… It’s genuinely lovely and gentle, a bit like Aston’s position in the standings (Alonso 11th, Stroll 12th). Mouth: I find this really good, a little richer than your usual ‘fiddichs, which we do like, more malty on the palate, more on honey-baked quince, mirabelle tart, maple syrup… Finish: not so short, more on honey again but also more on cakes, scones, muffins and all that jazz. This is really good. Comments: to be honest, we do poke fun at these unlikely marketing tie-ins, but I must admit I rather like this little 16-year-old that’s got a fair bit of depth, even if we’re not quite dealing with a naturally aspirated V12 here.
SGP:551 - 85 point. |
|
Glenfiddich 30 yo ‘XXX’ (40%, OB, +/-2005)
I’m rereading my notes from 17 October 2005, where I wrote ‘I hope we’ll see a 45 or 46% version on the market one day!’ I fear that never came to pass, but let’s taste this baby, from a different bottle of course, and most likely for the last time. Colour: deep gold. Nose: I reckon after twenty years in bottle, it’s become more aromatic, certainly more on bergamots and beeswax, honeysuckle and orange blossom, almost like fresh panettone from a good bakery. Needless to say, the panettones that turn up in our French hypermarkets aren’t exactly of the highest order. Mouth: blimey, what progress! A perfect OBE, leading straight to all things hive-like, honeys, but also a surprising salty edge, light broths, a faint Thai side (Thai basil, coriander, coconut, mild chilli) and the subtlest marmalades. What a surprise, truly. Finish: not even that short, very pretty, this time waxy and on blond tobacco… A touch of liquorice and Jamaican rum (yes) on the aftertaste. Comments: I’m absolutely floored, I wasn’t expecting this, I just wanted a little sparring partner for the 16 yo AM. Well then!
SGP:561 - 90 points. |
| |
August 27, 2025 |
|
|
A quartet of Nc’Nean matured in active casks
I always find it a bit surprising when a distillery makes a point of using local or organic ingredients, proudly highlighting the regional terroir and going almost fully eco-conscious in its approach—only to then use the most eclectic and conceptually, and geographically, distant casks imaginable. Amarone, anyone? But you'll tell me it's the end result that matters, and I couldn't really argue with that... In any case, we've already enjoyed some excellent Nc’Nean. |
 |
|
Nc'Nean 'Huntress 2025 Lemon Meadow' (48.5%, OB, 5,729 bottles, 2025)
The operation brought together STR casks, American oak and a touch of oloroso. It would appear they've used champagne yeast, which is frightfully efficient, it could probably ferment pebbles! That's what I used myself when distilling mead, for example, honey not being easy to let ferment… Colour: light gold. Nose: lovely, on sponge cake and ale, banana bread, very ripe apples and a nice little lemon meringue tart. Pleasing malted freshness throughout. Mouth: a sweet and sour style, white beer, clearly some slightly green wood, then green walnuts and a twist of grapefruit zest. I find this good and not overly ‘STR’-ish, which is always appreciated. Finish: medium in length, quite fermentary indeed, though I doubt that's down to the champagne yeast. A touch of dark nougat lingers on the aftertaste. Comments: I find this really good, even if I remain partial to malts that stay closer to the distillate (I do repeat myself).
SGP:561 - 82 points. |
|
Nc’Nean 6 yo 2018/2024 (57.1%, Watt Whisky, STR cask, 282 bottles)
More STR again, but in any case it’s always an encouraging sign when respected independents like the Watt chaps take an interest in your distillery. Colour: gold. Nose: more modern, more ‘American craft’ if I may say so, with rye bread, fir wood, eucalyptus, citrus peel, turmeric and cumin. Speculoos biscuits. With water: the candied peels take the lead. Mouth (neat): gentle but very spicy, heavily marked by the cask, full of ginger, lemon peel, cinnamon, ginger again… One is clearly a good distance from the distillate here, but it so happens that I also enjoy this sort of style. If one’s going to go cask-driven, may as well go all in, no? With water: indeed this is very good, although more west-coast USA than west-coast Scotland. Finish: rather long, with touches of elderflower liqueur. Ready for a Hugo spritz! Comments: no doubt a little polarising, but I really do like it.
SGP:561 - 85 points. |
|
Nc’Nean 2020/2025 ‘AON Amarone’ (59.3%, OB, Kirsch Import, cask # 20-676, 486 bottles)
One might reasonably ask what on earth the connection is between the west coast terroir and Valpolicella, no? Colour: partridge eye. Nose: very lovely, clean, close to barley and grist, a low-tide beach, a full bowl of oatcakes… With water: likely refill wood, as balance seems to have been preserved, we’re far from any cherry or strawberry jam. I rather enjoy this fresh bread angle too, alongside damp earth and a whiff of soggy cardboard… Mouth (neat): strong but good. Nothing to do with Amarone, we’re firmly in the realm of taut citrus, pink grapefruit, citron… Very fine sharpness. With water: tiny flecks of menthol and bergamot. Finish: rather long, slightly saline, still close to the barley. Comments: ma dov’è amarone? Perhaps best not to mention it at all, it only led us astray at the start… Excellent.
SGP:551 - 87 points. |
|
Nc’Nean 2017/2025 ‘AON Calvados’ (60.1%, OB, Kirsch Import, cask # 17-520, 343 bottles)
I imagine there’s no more link between the west coast of Scotland and calvados than there is with Amarone, but never mind, we said we’d keep an open mind, didn’t we? Colour: pale gold. Nose: the previous cask’s contents are far more assertive here, with marked notes of banana and coconut—piña colada style. A family-sized bag of Haribo’s finest, though beware, high strength tends to flatten things a bit… With water: the proverbial pacifying lemon meringue pie. They ought to send some to Moscow, Washington and Tel Aviv. Mouth (neat): liquid sweeties, led by pear and lemon. The worst part is, I rather like it, it must be the inner child surfacing. With water: yes, very good. The apple does emerge a little, with elegance and restraint. Finish: same again. Comments: the previous one had a touch more of those positive edges, but this ‘calva’ is also very, very good in my humble view.
SGP:641 - 86 points. |
| |
August 26, 2025 |
|
|
Another short selection of recent Glen Ord
Indeed, we often taste Glen Ord, simply because we love Glen Ord. Believe it or not, we never build our line-ups based on brands' market share, their popularity, or even their image. It’s also worth mentioning that the ‘square’ bottled versions from Diageo, some twenty years ago, made a very, very strong impression on us.
(The very extraordinary Glen Ord 30 yo from 2005 - WF 93) |
 |
|
Glen Ord 8 yo (48.5%, Decadent Drinks, Equinox & Solstice Summer 2025 edition)
From two refill hogsheads) You’ll note that all this solstice and equinox business appears to matter a great deal more to the wilder northern tribes than it does to us, humble dwellers of middle-Europe. At least, that seems to be the case for the Scots. Colour: straw. Nose: pure multivitamin fruit juice. One might imagine that if you saw a doctor, he’d simply prescribe you a bottle of this baby—so straightforward, yet so utterly perfect. That said, it’s williams pear that gently leads the charge. Mouth: a notch more complexity on the palate. Caution, it may give the impression you can knock it back in one, but that would be unwise, there’s still a fair few volts humming in there. Patisserie notes, custard, honey, syrups, all come together with properly ripe fruit. Finish: inexplicably long, fresh, fruity, yet never lapsing into that excessive ‘eau-de-vie’ territory. Comments: top drawer stuff, dangerously drinkable (or is it!)
SGP:641 - 87 points. |
|
Glen Ord 11 yo 2012/2024 (56.4%, Milroy’s Soho Selection, bourbon barrel, cask # 800243) 
Colour: pale gold. Nose: and here we go, an Ord-Clynelish. Not at all like the previous one, but here the waxy side simply can’t go unnoticed by any attentive taster. The rest is absolutely top-notch, sea air, apples and pears, fresh grass… What a nose indeed. With water: it folds entirely into paraffin and shoe polish. Mouth (neat): a thunderous arrival, earthy, almost combative, briny, fermentary, peppery… Water should bring a truce, as it usually does. With water: fermenting fruit, seawater, mezcal… Something odd must have happened, but we love it. Finish: long, salty, coastal. Comments: a strange Ord, perhaps a stencil mix-up, or yet another barcode editor update gone awry, as always. Either way, we’re absolutely taken with this very improbable and decidedly deviant Ord.
SGP:462 - 89 points. |
|
Glen Ord 12 yo 2012/2025 ‘Edition #46’ (57.1%, Signatory Vintage, 100 Proof, 1st fill bourbon barrels)
Colour: straw. Nose: this one’s the purest, the simplest (in the best possible sense) of the trio. And perhaps the most ‘Ord’ of the lot. Honeys, pollens, ripe apples, mirabelles, apricots, with a waft of coastal freshness. Nothing to fault here. With water: ultra-simple, excellent, on lemon fruit jelly and acacia honey. Mouth (neat): when simplicity becomes a virtue. Pear and apple juice, lemon juice, a saline touch, with hints of sourdough and white beer. With water: no real shift, just more softness and those gently malty, fermentary tones. Finish: fairly long, classic, drifting towards lemon focaccia. Comments: this is also very good indeed. Such class, Glen Ord.
SGP:451 - 87 points. |
| |
August 25, 2025 |
|
|
Eight more secret whiskies
All hailing from bonnie Scotland. We’ll be going in completely at random, following our noses, with a free and positive spirit... And we'll finish with a celebratory malt. |
 |
|
Glenlaird 12 yo ‘Batch #1’ (48%, Tri Carragh, Stravaig Spirits, +/-2023)
This is a highlander, shall we expect a Clynelish? Colour: light gold. Nose: not Clynelish, far too much peat, grilled bacon, soot and burnt wood, we might veer towards Ardmore, although we must confess, we always struggle mightily to pin down and properly identify Ardmore, humbly admitted. Mouth: I haven’t the faintest idea what this is, but it’s very good. A slight ‘dirty’ edge à la Ben Nevis, certain batches thereof, yet also Ardmore’s sootiness, not forgetting the myriad incarnations of Loch Lomond, towards which we’re now leaning after all, all things considered. Lovely grapefruit with smoked paprika. Inch-something. Finish: rather long, salty, peppery and smoky, with the bacon remaining very much present. Comments: I’m rather fond of this, it’s a truly singular malt. So, Loch Lomond?
SGP:456 - 85 points. |
Since we're already deep in peat... |
|
Big Peat 2010/2025 ‘Feis Isle 2025’ (50%, Douglas Laing, refill hogshead)
We do enjoy tasting all these releases signed by Captain Haddock. But is there still any Port Ellen inside? Colour: white wine. Nose: sunflower oil, seawater, lemon juice and ashes. Everything works like a charm. With water: no change whatsoever, other than the addition of a few old magazines soaked by the rain. Mouth (neat): flawless lemon, oysters, seawater, seaweed, gentian, ink and ashes. The precision of Caol Ila. With water: same again, it’s just so good. Finish: long, precise, salty but almost refreshing. Comments: very ‘clear line’, which is rather amusing for a blend. Well, they know exactly what they’re doing, and I must say I’m rather impressed…
SGP:457 - 88 points. |
|
Wormtub 10 yo ‘Batch 5’ (56.1%, Atom Brands, sherry cask finish, 2024)
A secret single malt from Speyside, which of course means it could be just about anything. That said, given the name, we can probably rule out all Speysiders that don’t use wormtubs, can’t we? So, we’re likely down to Balmenach, Cragganmore, Glen Elgin and Mortlach, if I’m not mistaken. Colour: dark amber. Nose: ooh that’s lovely, a beautiful mix of caramel and maple syrup, with a stout-like undertone. Cracking nose. With water: sublime prunes and figs. Mouth (neat): perfect dark nougat, brandy, caramel, prunes, armagnac, Corinth raisins, toffee, millionaire shortbread… With water: in come the more tertiary notes, even a saline edge, coffee, broths, morels, pipe tobacco… Finish: much the same for quite some time, though it tightens up on a welcome vegetal acidity that keeps things fresh. Comments: Sam!?
SGP:561 - 88 points. |
Update, Ballindalloch, Balmenach, Benrinnes, Cragganmore, Craigellachie, Glen Elgin, Mortlach, and Speyburn all use wormtubs. Thanks Tim. |
|
Nectar Grove ‘Madeira Finish’ (46%, Wemyss Malts, blended malt, limited edition, 3,000 bottles, 2023)
Colour: pale gold. Nose: well, this is very lovely, somewhere between turrón and Nutella, or rather posh praline standing in effortlessly for that near-horror of a spread. Take 50g of almonds, 50g of hazelnuts and 100g of honey. Roast the nuts in the oven, then toss them in a pan with the honey. Finally, blitz the lot in a mixer. That’s it. Mouth: very, very good, more herbaceous, lively, nervy, with greater tension from citrus but also ‘Cointreau’. Don’t worry, I shan’t inflict a ‘Cointreau’ recipe on you. Finish: lovely finish on orange. The Madeira, whichever it was (Sercial? Malmsey? Others?) has remained discreetly in the background. Comments: really very, very good, indulgent yet elegant.
SGP:651 - 86 points. |
|
Timorous Beastie ‘The Cheese Cellar Collection No. 03’ (46%, Douglas Laing, Moscatel finish, 4,200 bottles, 2025)
Right then, a Moscatel finish, rather not the most reassuring prospect in my book, and expectations aren’t exactly high. I cannot not think either of Caol Ila DE, or perhaps the White House tastefully redecorated by you-know-whom! But we’ve also understood this bottling nods to the legendary pairing of whisky and cheese. Fair enough, let’s dive in… Colour: full gold. Nose: but of course, they were going to do it well, steering clear of those overly pushy muscat notes, and instead preserving the balance of the malt, pastries, citrus and the like. Mouth: I’m sorry to report it’s really quite good, leaning towards herbal infusions, thyme, fennel, dog rose and such, and also various honeys. Finish: fairly long, while the muscat remains restrained, though we’re brushing up against the limits of sweetness. The oranges rescue things in the dying embers, but it’s now getting perilously sugary. Comments: we rather flirted with the edges of cloying sweetness all the way through but all in all it remained graceful.
SGP:651 - 83 points. |
|
The Perspective Series No.1 21 yo (43%, Berry Bros. & Rudd, blended Scotch, 6,300 bottles, 2019)
Now this is a full-on blend. That said, it was created by Doug McIvor, easily one of the most distinguished, competent and elegant figures in the whisky business since at least the 18th century. All right, all right, others may be nipping at that enviable status, but the key is to never, under any circumstance, match your tie with your pocket square, something even Washington D.C. seems to have grasped these days. Colour: full gold. Nose: a very malty blend, in the vein of Macallan, let’s say. Lovely wee touches of potting soil and tobacco, with a discreet graininess, then more tobacco and some praline. Mouth: all gentle elegance, more ‘blend’ in character now, but top-drawer stuff. Honey, nougat, white chocolate, black tea. Finish: not very long, granted, but the coconut, though a tad insistent, stays within bounds. Comments: a blend, but truly a super-blend.
SGP:641 - 84 points. |
|
Extra-Groovy Spirit Blend 1969–2017/2023 (40.1%, Thompson Bros., blended Scotch)
An improbable blend that defies commentary, with a design so very ‘Cream’ it can only resonate with the quasi-boomers who worship Clapton. Or Austin Powers. Colour: deep gold. Nose: sublime opening salvo on mango and mustard. That may sound odd, but it works a treat. The rest shifts to old white wines, Burgundy or Graves. Let’s not dig too deeply. Mouth: inexplicably good. I’ll need to look into the composition, as apparently, it’s all detailed on the back label. We're a bit late to the party... Still, it’s excellent and packs far more punch than that frightful 40.1% would suggest. Finish: not even short in the end. The mustard from the nose returns gloriously in this setting. Only the rear palate dips a touch, but at 40%, that’s to be expected. Comments: as they say at the Jazz Club, ‘great!’
SGP:562 - 89 points. |
One last dram, then, it’s been such fun playing with these improbable blends and hidden malts… Let’s take a step back in time to end on a high note... |
|
Pride of Strathspey 1959–1960/1986 (40%, Gordon & MacPhail, Royal Marriage Prince Andrew and Sarah Ferguson)
This was a special vetting for the marriage of Prince Andrew and Sarah Ferguson. The exegetes still seem to be locked in debate over the origins of this malt, Macallan or Strathisla? Naturally, G&M ‘couldn’t possibly comment’, but it's thought that the earlier versions of Pride of Strathspey were indeed Macallan. This one, I’m not so sure. Then again, I’m not sure Andrew and Fergie were exactly the crowning glory of the British monarchy, so frankly.... Colour: reddish amber. Nose: this strongly resembles classic Macallan from the distillery’s glory days, with sublime coffee, faint hints of yellow oyster mushrooms (really), pipe tobacco from Dunhill’s (not that it matters), and an incredible blend of figs and marrow. Wow. Mouth: at this point, strength hardly matters, it’s all about the molecules doing their thing. Let’s say flat-leaf parsley, chestnut honey, figs and dates, mushrooms (let’s go with Caesar’s this time), and several old white wines still full of verve. We shan’t name names, this isn’t winefun.com. Finish: right, this nips the nose just a little, but after being bottled at 40% and left for forty years, you expect chamber music rather than a full symphony. Still, it’s Mozart. The aftertaste is light yet superbly honeyed. Comments: of course, we’re not going to mention the Epstein affair (S., tsk…).
SGP:451 - 92 points. |
| |
August 22, 2025 |
|
|
A few Speysides from Speyside’s
It's always been tricky to tell the difference, at least on paper, between “Speyside Distillery” and, say, “A Speyside Distillery”. How many secret Glenfarclas have we tasted, thinking they were from “Speyside”? And the other way round? Oh, our poor heads… Anyway, the ones we’ll be taking a quick look at today really should be Speysides from Speyside Distillery. Just be aware: don’t confuse those labelled “Spey” with “Glen Spey” … Ah well, we’ll survive… |
|
Spey ‘Trutina’ (46%, OB, bourbon casks, 18,000 bottles, 2016)
We’re not particularly used to these NAS versions, the ones we mostly remember—though not always for the best reasons—being those poor Drumguishes. Colour: pale white wine. Nose: apple juice and quite a bit of fresh plaster, oatcakes, porridge, a little pear, some grist… The bourbon casks were rather shy here, but one appreciates this utterly natural character, no make-up at all. Mouth: very much like artisanal pear eau-de-vie, plus some hay and lemon peel. Not very easy, but I think it could handily replace Russian vodka in cocktails. Finish: medium length, dry and herbal profile, rather astringent. Comments: actually, this isn’t too bad, frankly, all in all it’s honest.
SGP:461 - 70 points. |
|
Spey ‘Fumare Cask Strength Batch 2’ (60.4%, OB, bourbon barrels, 1,500 bottles, 2019)
A peated version, as the name suggests. Colour: pale white wine. Nose: on beer, bread dough and a touch of soot, pear juice, clinker, then increasingly assertive coal ash. With water: a few whiffs of antiseptic and a return of the porridge. Mouth (neat): this is very young peat in the style of other very young peaters, such as rather undercooked Ledaigs or Ballantruans, but with less definition than, say, the Port Charlottes or the Kilchomans. Rather hot, in fact, with this note of smoked pear over peat and a growing harshness. With water: it becomes truly harsh, rasping, a little difficult. Finish: long, overpowering, but more herbal than smoky by this stage. Comments: no prisoners here. In fact, it’s really not bad, but in the peat aisle, competition is fierce. And it’s pretty fiery.
SGP:367 - 79 points. |
|
The Speyside Distillery 9 yo 2015/2024 (54.1%, Truth & Consequences, refill + 1st fill bourbon, cask #1620R, 244 bottles)
Colour: gold. Nose: there’s quite a singular metallic edge here, we’re reminded of old aluminium mess tins from military days, but also bananas, mangoes, a touch of coconut and again those apples and pears, just like in the official bottlings. The first fill bourbon seems to have done its job. With water: a little patchouli and Turkish delight, gives off a whiff of Kathmandu (circa the 1960s). Mouth (neat): the American oak influence is instantly apparent, with coconut, banana, vanilla, candyfloss, nutmeg… With water: in come the peaches, white grapes, nectarines… The whole is now well balanced. Finish: long, fruity, with the arrival of toffee apples. Comments: a very clever use of bourbon wood, I’m rather fond of this young Speyside.
SGP:651 - 84 points. |
|
The Speyside Distillery 9 yo 2014/2024 (56.9%, Hogshead Import, 1st fill vin santo octave, 72 bottles)
Vin santo? Now that’s quite a bit more adventurous, if you ask me… Colour: bronze amber. Nose: soft and compact, on dried raisins and goji berries as expected, with pink grapefruit lingering in the background. So far, so good. With water: lovely vinosity, in a pineau or ratafia style. Mouth (neat): even more earthy and winey, marked by grape stalks and cedarwood, plus mulled wine spices. With water: sultanas and currants come roaring back. Finish: long, still on dried fruits but with added black pepper. Comments: truly a very good Christmas whisky. Ach, either we’re far too early or well too late.
SGP:651 - 82 points. |
|
Speyside Distillery 21 yo 1996/2018 (51.5%, Douglas Laing, Old Particular, sherry butt, cask #DL 12614, 215 bottles)
Once again we’re terribly behind, so let’s crack on. Colour: deep gold. Nose: we’re into walnuts, tobacco, earth, humus, mushrooms, old tree stumps… Lovely! With water: glorious wafts of a generous plate of cèpes flambéed in Armagnac with garlic. Mouth (neat): some unexpected yet charming tropical fruits—mango, passion fruit, papaya—all drizzled with aromatic honey. A fun return of lime blossom and patchouli. With water: oh yes, this is very good indeed, with orange liqueur making an entrance, and still a touch of garlic, though more like wild garlic this time—less jarring. Finish: medium length but a beautiful arrival of figs and tobacco, all nicely honeyed. Comments: what a lovely surprise!
SGP:551 - 87 points. |
|
Speyside Distillery 32 yo 1991/2023 (49.2%, Maltbarn, The 26, sherry cask, 38 bottles)
Granted, a tiny outturn, but that doesn’t mean the whisky isn’t quite grand. Colour: gold. Nose: delicate stuff, somewhere between orgeat, pistachio cream, walnut wine, bergamot, and linden infusion… I really like this nose, full of refined elegance. Mouth: the palate answers back with more freshness, even a touch of nervous energy, bringing green notes and citrus peel… It’s lacking a bit of roundness now, but that’s just how we like it. Finish: same again. Little touches of fennel and caraway alongside all those zesty notes. Comments: the palate is quite different from the nose. Two whiskies in one, splendid.
SGP:461 - 86 points. |
We'll leave it there, this way we’ll avoid accidentally tasting independent Glenfarclas ‘by mistake’… |
| |
August 21, 2025 |
|
|
WF’s Little Duos, today Clynelish (plus two secret ones)
I feel I must insist: I find it a real shame that Clynelish is disappearing from independent ranges—at least under its own name—especially when the official range is so limited. It’s a malt with real character; it’s the opposite of “just another Speysider” that relies on active casks to stand out… In short, I hope it doesn’t become a missing piece in the marvellous puzzle of Scotch malts. Because a puzzle with a missing piece—well, you know what I mean… |
 |
|
Clynelish 17 yo 2008/2025 (53.1%, Signatory Vintage for The Whisky Exchange, bourbon cask series, bourbon barrel, cask #800073, 186 bottles)
Colour: white wine. Nose: the purest chalk and slate, seamlessly entwined with paraffin oil, candlewax and green apple juice, the barrel only whispering of vanilla and honey, with great restraint. With water: virtually unchanged, perhaps a touch of vineyard peach and a wisp of flint, if one insists. Mouth (neat): powerful, cutting, yet texturally ample. The chalk and wax return, but this time it's lemon stepping in for the green apple. A stunning clarity of flavour. With water: again, water alters very little, save for some playful hints of fennel and aniseed adding yet more lift. Finish: long, pristine, on citrus fruits and, once again, those aniseed touches. The world’s best pastis, if you will. The aftertaste is nicely mineral and a little saline, one might almost find a wee oyster lurking in there. A light lemon fizz too. Comments: a Clynelish close to the distillate, which matters all the more with this style. The barrel merely serving as a jewel box for this little gem.
SGP:562 - 89 points. |
|
Clynelish 28 yo 1996/2025 (49.9%, Casky Hong Kong & Kanpakai Japan, Finest Selection, refill bourbon hogshead, cask #11444, 171 bottles)
We had found some 1996 ex-sherries a little unbalanced, but here we are in good hands and the vintage was a great one! Incidentally, a distiller once told me that vintages meant nothing, to which I replied by asking why they put them on their labels then. Ha. Colour: pale gold. Nose: a solid hit of tar at first, rather unusual, followed by linseed oil, then it simply unfolds like a fine white Burgundy, perhaps a Meursault. Crushed chalk, toasted bread, lemon marmalade, honeysuckle, beeswax... Mouth: tremendous bitterness, in the realm of propolis, lemon, pistachio butter, candied citron, lime juice, then a resinous touch, probably from the wood, veering towards tar liqueur (back again!) Finish: very long and markedly more maritime. Oysters with green peppercorns, then lemon marmalade returning. A drop of amaro, followed by more pepper, even chilli heat in the aftertaste. Comments: a perfect bridge between this and the 1972 and 1983 vintages. Ha, vintages… In any case, this is splendid.
SGP:561 - 91 points. |
We want more Clynelish again! Well then, since we’re on the subject… |
|
Distilled in Sutherland 5 yo (47.9%, Thompson Bros. for Whisky Fair Limburg 2024, blended malt, 120 bottles)
A blend of Clynelish and Dornoch, it would appear. We’re slightly behind schedule… Colour: pale white wine. Nose: cider apples and gooseberries mingled with plaster and pear and apple eaux-de-vie. In the background, a touch of soot and the proverbial paraffin oil rather than beeswax. Mouth: ah I do like this, it's all on small berries, holly, rowan, service tree, also little apples, jujubes, medlars and all those things that aren’t always terribly aromatic but are charming and delicate in flavour. Finish: fairly long, with the chalk closing up shop while the pear sings in the aftertaste, along with a slightly oily texture. Comments: quite 'eau-de-vie' in style, or even ultra-luxury vodka, which is of course a compliment—as long as it’s not Kremlinskaia, naturally.
SGP:651 - 87 points. |
|
Secret Highland Distillery 14 yo 2010/2024 (51.7%, The Nectar of the Daily Drams for the Wicked Whisky Compagnie, Belgium, PX hogshead)
It’s hit or miss… Colour: amber. Nose: hit—it smells of praline mingled with beeswax, boot polish and chestnut honey. No overload of raisins, mercifully. With water: wafts of old cellars and still quite a bit of polish. Soot, saltpetre, very dark chocolate. Mouth (neat): Clynelish and sherry can clash, in my modest experience, but that’s not the case here, it’s just packed with polish, smoked seafood (oysters) and black pepper. Quite the beast. With water: well then, here’s a Clynelish holding its own against the sherry. I’m not saying there aren’t a few squeaks and groans along the way, but it all ends on tar and a rather characteristic salinity. Or perhaps not so characteristic after all. Finish: long and properly saline, we’re almost heading into coastal amontillado territory. Comments: really very lovely, though one wonders how it might fare with shrimp croquettes from the Belgian coast. A very dry PX.
SGP:462 - 87 points. |
| |
August 20, 2025 |
|
|
Three Glen Elgin finished in
more difficult sherry
Let’s remember that Glen Elgin was also White Horse, the absolute star among relatively common branded blends. But today, we’ll also be getting some palo cortado, malaga and amontillado. Let’s say our prayers — here we go… |
|
Glen Elgin-Glenlivet 12 yo (46%, Cadenhead, Original Collection, 2025) 
This new baby was sheltered in palo cortado since 2023, rather smart if you ask me. Colour: pale gold. Nose: mustard and pepper, this is quite an extreme example of dry sherry, with no apparent fruitiness. Damp wood, hay, a wee balsamic touch, perhaps a few small berries, rowan, service tree, that sort of thing… Otherwise it is dry and austere. Mouth: spicy spruce, damp cardboard, apple peelings, a drop of lighter fluid. Finish: same again, with the mustard returning to the party. Comments: as dry as a hanged man’s humour, this rather improbable youngster. In truth, it is quite un-Cadenhead, I would say.
SGP:361 - 72 points. |
|
Glen Elgin 12 yo (52.7%, James Eadie, Distilleries of Great Britain & Northern Ireland, Malaga wine finish, cask #373074, 257 bottles)
We remain in the south of Spain, though on the Mediterranean rather than the Atlantic. Colour: gold. Nose: far more balanced, thus with fruit, here small cider apples and jujubes, also a lovely bakery-yeast side and some multifloral pollen. With water: damp earth of various kinds and fresh mushrooms. Mouth (neat): rather powerful, on bitters and roots, so not that ‘sexy’ for now. Hints of tiger balm and bitter orange play upon your lips. With water: there we are, it loosens up a little, though in moderation, on tobacco and orange zest. Finish: in fact, it remains a tad austere, around roots, celery, also turnips and salsify cooked with honey… Comments: much, much better all the same.
SGP:461 - 80 points. |
|
Glen Elgin 11 yo 2014/2025 (57.3%, Lady of the Glen, Amontillado Finish, cask #800982, 236 bottles)
Telling a palo cortado from an amontillado in a finishing is nothing short of wizardry, and we’ll freely admit we are quite unable to do so. Colour: full gold. Nose: earth, peppers and oranges in various guises. Will that do for you? With water: notes of Swiss cheese fondue, kirsch and white wine. I promise. Mouth (neat): the oranges save the world, at least here, yet it remains a touch… improbable. Think bitter orange liqueur with pepper and ginger. With water: ah, that’s better, though still a tad uncertain (Gruyère, pepper, kirsch and glue, really?) Finish: very long, very peppery, fairly bitter. Notes of glue and Seville orange. Comments: another highly acrobatic Glen Elgin, let us be frank, but really very, very decent.
SGP:461 - 80 points. |
I think we shall survive. |
| |
August 19, 2025 |
|
|
WF’s Little Duos, today
Glendullan once more
This is part of our special programme “Let’s Sample As Many As Possible of the Distilleries No One Ever Talks About”. It’s not exactly “SEO-friendly” or naturally catchy, but we couldn’t give a toss. At least no one will accuse us of resorting to clickbait, will they? |
|
Glendullan 15 yo 2009/2025 (55.5%, Signatory Vintage, Cask Strength Collection, 1st fill oloroso sherry hogshead finish, cask #11, 338 bottles)
Colour: mahogany. Nose: very vinous, but in the good sense, really giving you the feeling of nosing some old brandy de Jerez, only much less sweetened or boosted by whatever-it-is. Bags of chocolate, powdered coffee, fig spirit, walnut liqueur… With water: very ripe figs and roasted pecans join the party. Mouth (neat): rich, firing straight away on leather, tobacco and bitter orange. Then it carries on with more leather, tobacco and bitter orange, before settling on more leather yet, tobacco and bitter orange. And chocolate. What you would call a compact and coherent palate. With water: becomes spicier, in a lovely fashion, with several kinds of pepper and, above all, plenty of juniper and clove. Finish: long and creamy, chocolatey again. Pepper and chocolate are still dancing together very nicely. Comments: we like this compact sherried Glendullan rather a lot.
SGP:461 - 85 points. |
|
Glendullan 22 yo 2002/2024 (54.1%, The Whisky Blues, 1st fill bourbon barrel, cask #10908, 198 bottles)
Always those very beautiful labels, very poetic. Colour: gold. Nose: this noses like a pina colada enjoyed at the Saratoga in good company (JM, get out of this body!) at first, which might seem alarming but the coconut fades quickly, giving way to ripe bananas, chamomile tea, Sicilian pistachio butter and artisanal vanilla cream. Also appearing are touches of mandarin and a little fresh sawdust, though without the slightest excess. Rather like a good bourbon, really… With water: carries on in the same vein. Mouth (neat): sweet touches at first, with banana liqueur, pineapple liqueur, soft honey (acacia, for example) and quite a lot of orange-flavoured buttercream. That last element might sound worrying, but we could eat a whole bucket of it without hesitation. With water: it gathers around malt and vanilla fudge. Finish: fairly long, still creamy, still with plenty of orange-flavoured buttercream. Very gentle spices in the aftertaste. Comments: this Glendullan is jolly good, even if one suspects the barrel has done a large part of the job. Job very well done.
SGP:641 - 86 points. |
| |
August 18, 2025 |
|
|
WF's Little Duos, today Glenmorangie NAS vs Westport sherry |
Westport is supposed to be the name given to Glenmorangie with a teaspoon of Glen Moray added, but I imagine that since Glen Moray joined another stable, namely the French group La Martiniquaise, a different malt is now used, though that’s far from certain. Unless, of course, the name Westport is no longer in use; in any case, we’ve never tasted one that was distilled after 2006. But let’s begin, if you don’t mind, with a little Glenmorangie NAS ‘Triple Cask Reserve’. I often say that this kind of name reminds me of the time when small watch brands, caught up in the race to boast ever more jewels in their movements (17, 25, 30 or more…), would add ones that served absolutely no mechanical purpose, they were just there to look posh or ‘technical’ or ‘improved’ or whatever crosses the minds of marketeers… |
|
Glenmorangie ‘Triple Cask Reserve’ (40%, OB, +/-2025) 
A mix of ex-bourbon, new charred oak and ex-rye casks, sold at a very gentle price in France, under €30 in certain hypermarkets. Colour: gold. Nose: typical Glenmorangie, that is to say rather rounded and soft, on pastries and, in this case, a generous dollop of custard. We then veer more towards malt, lager beer, fresh baguette (mais bien sûr) and honey laced with a touch of turmeric. Mouth: coherent, with zest, more oak but without ever veering into plankishness, and a little more tension than on the nose. On the other hand, it then turns a tad prickly and green, even slightly sour, perhaps it’s the active casks responsible. Or is it the rye? Finish: decent length, some clear tannicity, green tea and a bit of ale. Aftertaste on white pepper and a suggestion of ginger recalling the turmeric from the nose. Comments: not bad at all, I think, though perhaps better served cool, say at 12°C.
SGP:461 – 79 points. |
|
Westport 21 yo 2003/2025 (53%, Decadent Drams, sherry wood, 228 bottles)
Colour: amber. Nose: quite a different kettle of fish altogether, here the sherry’s brought along tobacco, cedarwood, chestnut honey, forest floor, mosses, a touch of tar (no sulphur at all, let’s not get carried away) and eventually some modelling clay that rather recalls a distillery located a bit further up the east coast. Also chestnut purée. With water: it drifts back somewhat towards a more classical Glenmorangie profile, with stewed apple and cinnamon. So, it loses in originality but gains in balance. Mouth (neat): rich, rather spicy, even peppery right from the off, in the style of a goulash prepared with honey and candied sugar. We’ll have to ask our Hungarian friends whether such a thing exists. Also some speculoos and… rye bread! With water: we stay in spicy sherry territory, almost mustardy now, with pipe tobacco returning. Harvey’s sauce. Fine bitterness and a touch of cinchona. Finish: long, still spicy. Honey, pepper and mustard, we really must try that in a sauce. Comments: a truly distinctive bottle, one that stays with you, I think. By the way, the giraffe on the label, evoking the distillery’s tall, narrow-necked stills, is indeed Glenmorangie’s mascot. No, Ardbeg did not go with the hippopotamus…
SGP:462 – 87 points. |
| |
August 17, 2025 |
|
|
| |
August 15, 2025 |
|
|
WF’s Little Duos, today Lindores Abbey |
We don't often get to taste 'new cats' on their own like this, except perhaps Daftmill and Ardnamurchan. But rest assured, it’s something you’ll be seeing more and more of on WF… And here we are in the Lowlands, right across from the famous abbey where Scotch whisky was born - at any rate, no one’s ever managed to prove otherwise. |
(Lindores Abbey Distillery) |
Oh, and the address? Naturally, it’s ‘Abbey Road’. And on top of that, today is the Feast of the Assumption — how fitting, WF! (Just joking) |
|
Lindores Abbey ‘The Cask of Lindores II’ (49.4%, OB, bourbon cask, 2023)
I don’t believe we ever tried Batch 1. Colour: white wine. Nose: green pears, vanilla and chalk. It’s very simple, square-cut, efficient, pretty. In the second layer, a few whiffs of apple shampoo – that’s right. Mouth: herbaceous but also fruity, close to barley and yellow citrus. A few touches of varnish, before the pear returns, and finally a sack of 245 kilos of jelly babies. Finish: fairly long, on fruity sweets like those famous Swiss Sugus. Comments: all this is very ‘Lowland’, a bit in the style of certain old Auchentoshans from days gone by. Is it triple distilled?
SGP:641 - 83 points. |
|
Lindores Abbey ‘Thiron 2024’ (49.4%, OB)
A rather amusing tale of partnership with the mother abbey of Lindores, the Abbey of Tiron, in France at Thiron-Gardais, south-west of Paris. This youngster matured in three types of casks, namely ex-red wine, ex-bourbon and fresh French oak from the region around the Abbey of Tiron itself. Why not! Colour: straw. Nose: similar to the previous one, though a tad more marked by fresh oak, which, you’ll say, was to be expected. The good news is that the red wine influence is barely noticeable. It’s pretty, balanced, and dare I say, suitably monastic. Mouth: nice presence, fruity, with a clearly defined but fresh woodiness, a touch of pepper, and plenty of apples. Finish: rather herbal, though not particularly long, on infusions and liquorice wood. Comments: a very charming bottle, just a wee touch too oaky for me.
SGP:561 - 82 points. |
With a shout-out to all our very distinguished Belgian friends from the now very quiet Lindores Whisky Club in Ostend. |
Previous entries
(archived)
|
|
| |
|
|
