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November 4, 2025 |
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Dailuaine: Time to Catch Up |
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| (Geograph + AI) |
Dailuaine has quietly become one of the most commonly seen names among independent bottlers these days. And I have to admit, WF has let this one slip a little, as we have with quite a few others, to be fair: Glenburgie, Ledaig, Bunnahabhain, Ardmore, Loch Lomond, Malt Mill, Ben Nevis… and more besides (spot the odd one out!). So, today we’re setting out to start thinning the Dailuaine stocks, not least because we’ve got the new Special Release on hand, which has already been receiving high praise. We’ll be taking a fairly spontaneous approach to this little session, just to keep things lively, and hopefully a bit of fun too. |
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Dailuaine-Glenlivet 12 yo 2013/2025 (46%, Cadenhead, Original Collection, bourbon hogsheads) 
This baby was bottled quite recently… Colour: white wine. Nose: vanilla fudge lightly scented with aniseed, which I find rather charming, then touches of ladies’ moisturiser and just half a glass of pear juice. The whole affair is fresh and most delightful. Mouth: very good, youthful, a little rustic but in a lovely way, on small apples and wild plums, a touch of lemon, and a return of the aniseed and liquorice, with a slight sensation of pastis (insert La Marseillaise here). Finish: fairly long, slightly saline, with more apples and stewed pears. Comments: I’m very fond of this wee malt, not expensive at all, and it offers plenty of character.
SGP:551 - 85 points. |
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Dailuaine 10 yo (48.3%, James Eadie, oloroso sherry hogshead, 2024)
Colour: full gold. Nose: loads of shoe polish! Then a bag of old walnuts and a touch of dry-sweet pipe tobacco. Lovely sherry influence, you’re gently whisked away to the magic triangle. Mouth: nicely done, a fine effort, the polish has turned into smoked chocolate or something along those lines. Then some dark rye bread baked in a wood-fired oven, with a dusting of cinnamon. Finish: fairly long, on lovely bitter chocolate notes, bitter orange, and once again a salty touch, which is quite surprising. Is Dailuaine supposed to be saline? Comments: yet another very nice young dram from Andalusia. I mean from Speyside.
SGP:461 - 85 points. |
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Dailuaine 2011/2024 (59%, The Whisky Jury, first fill bourbon, cask #800376, 204 bottles)
Colour: pale gold. Nose: quite simply a banana cake smothered in three litres of custard. Or let’s say five. With water: an enormous vanilla sponge. Mouth (neat): livelier, on small green fruits and yellow citrus, plenty of fresh herbs and Japanese green tea in the matcha style, then white pepper. On the palate it’s as taut as a bowstring, almost alarming. With water: not to worry, it retains that greasy tension, but everything has relaxed. Lovely bitter herbs, veering towards Fernet Branca or Italian amari. Finish: long, even greener, though here that’s a virtue. Comments: I reckon adding 5cl of this to a pint of beer would be a brilliant idea. That’d be one hell of a pint.
SGP:461 - 86 points. |
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Dailuaine 21 yo ‘Marbled Treasures’ (54.3%, OB, Special Releases 2025, fully matured in Spanish ex-sherry, 2025) 
Colour: amber honey. Nose: there’s a very slight cosmetic note, for well-groomed ladies, and a bit of polish, but the sherry rises quickly, in the form of a full basket of all sorts of raisins, with tiny touches of dry-cured ham in the background—Spanish, naturally. With water: hints of old-school orange liqueurs genuinely built on proper Cognac. Mouth (neat): excellent, on rum and raisin, then orange liqueur. Delightfully straightforward. With water: still rather simple, though you may now add some proper Central European Christmas biscuits. We’re already looking forward to them, even if we’ll put on five kilos in two weeks. As always, blame the booze, it’s always the booze’s fault. Finish: fairly long, with mulled wine-style spices appearing, or even a touch of Conditum Paradoxum. ChatGPT is supposed to be your friend – not too sure about that. Chocolate. Comments: excellent and very ‘Christmas’. How convenient.
SGP:641 - 89 points. |
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Dailuaine 8 yo 2016/2024 (57.9%, Watashi Whisky, bourbon, cask #3010248, 95 bottles)
Back to Taiwan, always a pleasure. Colour: white wine. Nose: ultra-clean, on fresh barley, ripe apples and acacia honey. Again, it’s very simple, but the molecules are perfectly in place. With water: add some milk chocolate, the double cream sort from Lindt. Mouth (neat): I love this simplicity, on green apples, lemons, pepper and fresh barley, then a light honeyed touch. Nice fatness. With water: bitter and earthy herbs come in, bringing lovely tension. Finish: long, flawless. Comments: for such a young beast, I think this is simply excellent, almost going toe to toe with the rather splendid Special Release.
SGP:551 - 88 points. |
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Dailuaine 12 yo 2011/2024 ‘Ashish Basnet’ (53.1%, The Whisky Exchange, Whisky Show 2024)
Hard to believe the 2025 Whisky Show has already passed and we hadn’t yet tasted this 2024 baby. I feel as guilty as Jean Valjean in Les Misérables. Colour: straw. Nose: it’s basically an IPA, just redistilled. The citrus and hops are rather assertive. With water: not much development, it folds back a little, onto apples. Mouth (neat): that fatty Dailuaine texture, yet with mint and sorrel, then cider apples, though not very expressive. The hops are still there too. With water: there it is, we’ve got it, it’s really lovely now, a little austere but full of the small fruits from an old orchard in a sleepy village out in the countryside. The kind of ageing fruit trees no one’s had the heart to replace. You know the sort... Finish: fairly long and well balanced, on apples and pears. Comments: there’s a slightly faded, poetic quality I really enjoy.
SGP:551 - 85 points. |
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Dailuaine 16 yo 2007/2024 (55.8%, Scyfion, Calvados cask finish, 150 bottles)
Delighted to be tasting another bottle from Ukraine, Slava Ukraini! If there’s one thing the Ukrainians have earned in recent years, it’s the immense respect and lasting admiration of truly democratic peoples. There you go… Oh, and we do rather like the Arc de Triomphe on the label… Colour: gold. Nose: the pairing of this very natural, fairly textured malt with what seems to be a fresh and fruity Calvados appears to work beautifully. Imagine yourself tucking into a tarte tatin that’s three-quarters apple and one-quarter quince, drizzled with malt whisky. Magnificent. With water: the Calvados becomes more prominent, but it’s a very fine one—fresh and full of spirit. Mouth (neat): the match still works a treat, here it’s more taut, slightly lemony, and with a kind of basaltic edge. Cider apples and light honeys, plus a fairly yeasty beer. With water: even prettier, with some mint and linden tea coming through. Finish: fairly long, with tiny herbal touches of thyme. Comments: deepest friendship to our Ukrainian mates.
SGP:551 - 87 points. |
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Dailuaine 12 yo (53.3%, ProtectUASea, 1st Fill Tennessee Whiskey, cask #300648, 69 bottles, 2024)
Still in Ukraine. Slava Ukraini! Presumably a stint in a Dickel cask… Colour: pale gold. Nose: we’re back to the polish we found previously, then some bruised apples, and it’s all simple and spot-on. With water: a bit of fresh wood comes out here. Mouth (neat): same high level as its cousin from Scyfion, though a touch more rustic, much like Tennessee itself (right). Citrus more present. With water: still close to the last one, just that bit more rough-hewn again. In short, it depends on which worked better for you, the Calvados or the Dickel. Please don’t ask me to pick sides… Finish: fairly long, more herbal and spicier. Comments: really good. I reckon people don’t think enough about Dailuaine… Or Ukraine, for that matter. And have you noticed the two names end with the same four letters?
SGP:561 - 87 points. |
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Dailuaine 13 yo 2011/2024 (53.5%, Cooper’s Choice, Port Wood finish, 300 bottles) 
Colour: apricot/smoked salmon/very ripe mirabelle, which is always a bit scary, but let’s give it a go anyway… Nose: right then, here come notes of apricot, along with quince paste and cranberry. Let’s be cautious and add water straight away… With water: not bad at all. Cherry-stem herbal tea. Mouth (neat): well now, this is actually very good on the palate, you do feel the Port, but we do love old Port, and after all, they are red wines, but fortified ones. Gorgeous cherry tarts and vineyard peaches. Some bud notes coming through later, which are a touch less thrilling. With water: not bad, even if it edges a little toward strawberry jam, but there’s also pepper, and the pepper + strawberry combo is clearly part of humanity’s shared heritage (isn’t it?). Finish: not its best angle, leans more towards leafy and budding notes. Comments: inevitably a little chaotic, as always when red wine is involved, but we’ve landed on our feet here, it’s still very good.
SGP:651 - 84 points. |
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Dailuaine 11 yo 2012/2023 (58.8%, Watt Whisky, refill sherry butt, 552 bottles)
Colour: straw. Nose: nature in a glass, slightly oily, earthy, charmingly acrid, more on those little orchard fruits we mentioned earlier. With water: a few green walnuts from the sherry (presumably), still apples, and the tiniest hint of honeysuckle. Perhaps… Mouth (neat): far fruitier and even cheerful on the palate, still on cider apples and near-wild pears. With water: water works very well here, we’re back to death-by-IPA as hinted above, but it stays robust and a touch rustic. Strongly reminiscent of holly eau-de-vie, or even bison grass vodka. Finish: long, very herbal, austere like a Lada. But yes, it goes anywhere. Fun spices around clove and cumin on the aftertaste. Comments: straight from the freezer, then served with caviar or proper wild smoked salmon.
SGP:361 - 85 points. |
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Dailuaine 12 yo 2012/2025 (57.7%, Fadandel, 1st fill oloroso hogshead, cask #300650, 62 bottles)
We love micro-bottlings, they give us the feeling we’re tasting things almost no one else will ever get to try. Colour: gold. Nose: it smells of oil, almost deep-frying oil, and that’s a true Dailuaine marker. For me, it makes all these malts quite singular, though perhaps not for the broader public—that is, the thirsty Marxist masses (ahem). Paraffin oil and little green apples. With water: the return of posh lady cosmetics! And a few drops of Thai broth. Mouth (neat): it’s very good, rustic, grilled, and unlikely, with coffee and apple eau-de-vie. Apple eau-de-vie is usually of little interest, but there are (rare) exceptions, such as Gravenstein from Rochelt. With water: coffee, wax, small apples, tobacco, walnuts… The oloroso seems to be waking up a bit. About time, you might say. Finish: fairly long, though perhaps not sharply defined. Comments: another bottle we find terrific, though we feel like popping it straight into the freezer as well.
SGP:451 - 84 points. |
Alright then, one last dram, we’ll be back with more rather mad Dailuaines very soon. Maybe even as soon as tomorrow… who knows? |
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Dailuaine 30 yo 1995/2025 (55.5%, Kanpaikai & The Antelope, refill hogshead, cask #803066, 143 bottles)
Will this baby knock the Special Release off its perch? It’s not out of the question, thirty years in refill is a magical combo that can bury all those improbable finishing escapades in one elegant swoop. Let’s find out right away… Colour: gold. Nose: forget it, honeys, pollens, baked fruits and old resiny woods strike immediately and make it clear who’s in charge. But that doesn’t mean it’ll all carry through to the palate… With water: old beeswax, old furniture, old libraries, old rectories. Amen. Mouth (neat): slightly fragile, with fruits giving way to camphor and very dry herbal teas, not to mention pronounced bitter almonds and a rather strong old furniture polish character. It feels right at the tipping point; so which way will it fall? (S., for heaven’s sake, this isn’t TikTok). With water: no, don’t add water, it literally pulls the whole thing apart. Finish: with just one drop of water, it’s delicate, very much on teas and herbal infusions, slightly drying but really lovely. Almond milk. Comments: that famous point of balance where everything can suddenly turn too fragile. Fascinating to taste. And love it.
SGP:461 - 87 points. |
Good, after twelve Dailuaines, see you soon. |
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November 3, 2025 |
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Another two or three Craigellachies
We’ve still got the official 41-year-old from three years ago to taste, and we don’t want to keep it waiting any longer. We'll take the opportunity to add two or three independent bottlings as well. We were impressed by the texture of the Craigellachies we tried not long ago...
(P'tit Noir, assistant mouser at WF Towers, doing what he does best.)
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Craigellachie 11 yo 2013/2024 (60.6%, Lady of the Glen, refill butt, recharred cask finish, cask #30080, 215 bottles)
Colour: deep gold. Nose: perhaps a little acrid and brutal at first nosing, with rather assertive notes of green pepper and a strong suggestion of extremely rustic kirsch. Sour cherries abound, followed by a few smaller apples that come across as slightly more civilised. Water might well work wonders here. With water: markedly improved, as expected, shifting towards black tea, pipe tobacco, leather, bay leaf and ginger root, all rather nicely harmonised. Mouth (neat): massive and extremely taut, displaying loads of bitter oranges alongside that persistent green pepper, then a touch of perfume, slightly scorching in its intensity. With water: it retains a faintly perfumy and floral dimension, yet the bitter oranges and grapefruits, not to mention some mountain honey and tiny drops of herbal concoctions, bring things back into balance rather smartly. Finish: long, now fairly fresh. Ginger and black pepper return in the aftertaste, accompanied by the faintest trace of soap. Ultimately, it’s the pepper that reigns supreme across your palate. Comments: one understands quite clearly why certain independent bottlers prefer to bring their whiskies down just a touch, say to 57% or 100° proof, to sidestep those more challenging tasting phases.
SGP:461 - 84 points. |
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Craigellachie 14 yo 2009/2023 (53.4%, Whiskyfacile, Black Cat series, hogshead, cask #90305000, 300 bottles)
Very pretty label, approved by 'P’tit Noir', one of the five mousers here at WF Towers. Which, as you’ll have guessed, is entirely black. Colour: gold. Nose: the cask is less pronounced here and as a result we find the distillate’s oily side coming through, with peanut oil, sesame, a touch of flint, ashes, and even a little peat, to the point where one wonders whether this hogshead hadn’t previously held a peated malt. Most likely! In any case, this is most delightful, almost like Ardmore. With water: damp earth and little apples from a very old tree, in an ancient orchard near a weathered old house. You see... Mouth (neat): wonderfully oily, lemony and as camphory as one could wish, with a faint hint of Laphroaig. No matter, as it’s excellent. With water: still excellent, with a wee menthol cigarette note and a touch of salt. Finish: fairly long, continuing in the same vein. Comments: whether it’s Craigellaphroaig or not, it’s really excellent.
SGP:563 - 88 points. |
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Craigellachie 41 yo 1980/2021 (46%, OB, Exceptional Cask Series, refill hogsheads, casks #2036, 2038, 2040, 2043, 402 bottles)
Colour: straw. Nose: typical of those older Speysiders that haven’t seen much sherry, instead brimming with pollen, honey, beeswax and yellow flowers, to which are soon added overripe apples and plums. It’s absolutely charming, perhaps a tad fragile, and probably a little less complex than the 37-year-old we tried last time. Mouth: perhaps showing a touch more fatigue on the palate, with hints of stale beer, dust and cardboard, though all of that remains moderate and it hasn’t completely run out of steam either. Mead, followed by oranges which, as usual, manage to rescue the whole affair somewhat, lifting it back up the liveliness scale. You know what I mean? Finish: rather short but still very pretty, on various honeys and, once again, orange. The aftertaste brings to mind some old beeswax polish. Comments: perhaps the sort of casks that would more often have ended their days in some venerable ultra-premium blend. But it remains very charming indeed...
SGP:451 - 87 points. |
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November 2, 2025 |
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A word of caution
Let me please remind you that my humble assessments of any spirits are done from the point of view of a malt whisky enthusiast who, what's more, is aboslutely not an expert in rum, brandy, tequila, vodka, gin or any other spirits. Thank you – and peace! |
More rums, with thoughts for Jamaica (and the other islands affected by Melissa) |
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| Ariège (Ariège Tourisme) |
Let’s start with a little aperitif… |
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Naga 12 yo ‘Kingdom of Siam Edition’ (40%, OB, Thailand, +/-2024) 
We had tried a rather good 10-year-old some years back, so here comes its elder sibling. The Thai rum landscape has evolved markedly over the past dozen years or so, back from the days when the thoroughly unconvincing SangSom still held sway. That said, while Siam was indeed Thailand’s former name before WWII, the label here simply states ‘Asian Rum’, although if you were to consult a globe, you’d quickly realise that Asia, well, that’s fairly broad, isn’t it. Ha. Colour: amber. Nose: loads of very ripe banana, along with some poached williams pear in sweet white wine and a few hints of ‘oriental’ herbal tea. Lovely! The real question will be whether the palate leans heavily towards sweetness or not. Mouth: no, no sugary avalanche here, quite the contrary in fact, more on sugarcane with touches of bay leaf and nutmeg. A little orange and a drop of Earl Grey. Finish: a tad short but rather likeable, close to the cane, with a little molasses, liquorice and honey lingering in the aftertaste. Comments: really quite nice, I’m sure this would sit a notch higher at 43 or 46% vol.
SGP:541 - 79 points. |
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Thailand 8 yo 2016/2025 (61%, La Maison du Whisky, Flag Series, Itinéraires, 253 bottles)
A column still rum aged for 4 years in situ, then another 4 years on the continent (which in this context means Europe). LMDW also inform us that Thailand is the second largest exporter of cane sugar in the world, did you know that? Colour: dark amber. Nose: all in on furniture polish, natural rubber and milk chocolate, then assorted and sundry buds. Still a touch strong and perhaps slightly closed. With water: it shifts towards herbal teas and banana leaf. Mouth (neat): like cask strength triple sec! Oranges are clearly taking centre stage for now, with a sprinkling of coriander seed over the top. With water: it becomes a little more refreshing, livelier, and amusingly, we’re finding that same williams pear as in the previous one. Do they grow williams pears in Thailand? Also a few roasted and very lightly salted peanuts. Finish: not very long but very clean and gentle, slightly chocolaty, faintly spiced. Comments: excellent, and it’s not one of those petroly ones like Chalong Bay and the rest.
SGP:541 - 85 points. |
Since we’re on the topic of flags… |
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Saint Lucia 21 yo 2004/2025 (58.3%, La Maison du Whisky, Flag Series, Itinéraires, 199 bottles) 
Hailing from a Vendôme still and naturally from the only active distillery in Saint Lucia, the one behind those Chairman’s Reserve bottlings we’re so fond of, St Lucia Distillers. Colour: straw. Nose: magnificent. First you’re topping up your Ferrari or your Golf at some old petrol station, then snipping a bit of dill and spring onion from the garden, and finally unwrapping the latest parcel of utterly useless and highly questionable electrical gadgets you ordered from Temu three weeks ago during a moment of weakness. Tsk tsk. Superb. With water: it retreats marvellously towards fresh herbs and petrol. Mouth (neat): a pure cocktail of lime, oil paint and varnish. With water: but how good is this! Entirely distillate-driven, so presumably continentally aged. Finish: long, precise, vibrant yet fat. Eau de vie of tiny berries, lime zest, and three drops of iodine tincture. Comments: we jest a little, but this is a marvellous bottle, with pitch-perfect liveliness.
SGP:362 - 90 points. |
Time to hop over to France… |
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Montebello (52.7%, Les Frères de la Côte, Guadeloupe, agricole, ex-bourbon, 730 bottles)
Aged 1 year on site, then 4 months at sea aboard a sailing cargo ship, followed by a further year in mainland France. We've always found Montebello rather singular, so as they say, we can hardly wait… Colour: pale gold. Nose: glorious rotting fruits (yep) and olive oil, plus that little plant one always finds in Montebello but which I've never managed to identify. Not terribly helpful, is it? Perhaps a cactus of some sort? In style, we’re close to the finest agricole rums of Madeira, unless it’s the other way around. With water: waxed paper, ink, a little caraway… Mouth: same remarks, word for word. The olive oil stands out even more, and there’s also a touch of unrefined cane sugar. With water: unchanged, it doesn’t budge an inch after dilution. Or perhaps just a hint of banana skin. Finish: long and more earthy, more saline, leaning further towards olives. Comments: it’s really very distinctive! That alone is worth a couple of extra points…
SGP:462 - 87 points. |
Let’s take a little detour to Guyana… |
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Port Mourant 21 yo 2003/2024 (44.6%, C’Rhum by Corman Collins, Guyana)
Full maturation took place at Bristol in England, hence the very pale and rather seductive colour. Colour: chardonnay. Nose: it perfumes the room instantly, all on balsamic, bleach and olives. The worst part is that it’s fantastic—closer to the distillate than this and you may as well give up, as they say. Then come a few anecdotal additions, such as overripe apple and surgical bandages. Mouth: very amusing, very unusual, all on charcoal, mutton suet, white ham, a touch of graphite, and above all, peated smoked lemons. Though I rather doubt anyone has ever actually tried to peat-smoke lemons. Finish: not immensely long, but bursting with seawater, tar and carbon dust. A bit of burnt matter in the aftertaste. Comments: strictly for fans of naked distillate, with cask influence as restrained as you-know-who’s vocabulary in D.C..
SGP:363 - 91 points. |
Here you go, for a little contrast in terms of strength… |
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T.D.L. 14 yo 2010/2025 (67.3%, The Colours of Rum, LMDW Itinéraires, Trinidad)
Probably one of the highest strength Angosturas we've ever tasted. The only question left—while we ring our solicitors—is whether this ultimate bomb leans towards fruitiness or petroleum. Colour: amber. Nose: petroleum-led and packed with acetone and varnish, with some ultra-ripe mango lurking in the background. So, a bit of both, really… With water: moves closer to fermenting cane. Mouth (neat): good grief, it burns! And the solicitor’s not picking up, probably still on the golf course… Concentrated lemon juice and biofuel. One to approach with caution—and I speak from bitter experience—beware the wrong pipe. Aaaargh… With water: there we are, passion fruits and mangos come storming in like one man. Finish: long, like a tightrope walker over a pit filled with tropical fruit and every petroleum by-product imaginable. Comments: fed up with these solicitors…
SGP:653 - 90 points. |
Just wait, we’re going even ‘higher’… |
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Travellers 2008/2023 (68.1%, Swell de Spirits, Belize, Private Garden #5, for Caves Deymier)
11 years in the tropics, the rest on the continent, and a bottling for an excellent house in Ariège—a splendid region I warmly recommend next time you’re roaming about the south of France. And 68% vol.! And the solicitor still won’t pick up… Colour: amber. Nose: very gentle, rather ‘bourbony’, though it’s likely the high strength is numbing things a bit. With water: copious amounts of Vittel are required (but Nestlé, where the hell is that blasted cheque?) to bring this baby down to the level of fine praline and delicate black tea with a dash of milk. Aww… Mouth (neat): coconut, vanilla, oranges, honey, and above all, a lot of alcohol. With water: it turns very pastry-like, with a Cuban touch as well, a bit of coconut milk, milk chocolate, cappuccino… Finish: fairly long, though not particularly full-bodied, in keeping with Travellers’ lighter style. Comments: one of the finest Travellers I’ve tasted in recent months—or years—even if it’s not entirely ‘my style’.
SGP:441 - 87 points. |
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Jamaican Blend #13 (64.7%, Swell de Spirits & Rums of Anarchy, 100 bottles, 2024)
A blend of Hampden 2007 C<>H (40%), Hampden 2013 <>H (40%), New Yarmouth 2009 (20%) and a dash of madness (100%). Colour: white wine. Nose: it reeks of terpenes even before you’ve uncorked the bottle. Then come the green olives, black olives, diesel fuel, pitch and lime juice. I forgot the customary acetone. With water: slightly ‘aged’ shellfish, though still edible (very light ammonia), and peated smoked lime. That’s the second time today! Mouth (neat): splendid, ultra-tight, fizzy, still full of varnish and olives, with an impressively saline edge. The high strength goes down like cream, as they say. With water: smoky green freshness, tarry, lemony and olive-y. That about sums it up. Finish: very long, impressively precise for something that’s supposedly ‘just’ a blend. Very salty aftertaste. Comments: after Melissa, let’s support Jamaica as much as we can, and not only by knocking back their marvels as if there were no tomorrow.
SGP:473 - 91 points. |
We all know it, Hampden is the only rum that can follow Hampden in a lineup… |
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Hampden 2013/2025 ‘<>H’ (59%, The Roots x The Antelope, 205 bottles)
5 years tropical ageing, 6 years continental, so presumably the best of both worlds. Colour: gold. Nose: incredibly gentle and medicinal to start with, but as we know in these cases, it’s like the opening to La Traviata—it’s all about anticipation… Gorgeous seaweed, bandages, ointments, a surprising salted fudge, a refined touch of tar, a drop of wild strawberry eau-de-vie (I swear!), and the ever-present green olives. With water: what’s this now, aniseed and liquorice? Mouth (neat): forget it, this is just pure Hampden, with glorious salinity. With water: how utterly charming, some mildly sweet lemons appear to rebalance things and make it almost approachable. Almost. Finish: long, varnished, lemony, salty, tarry, rather medicinal, yet fresh. Comments: these Hampdens are becoming borderline problematic—they’re just so overwhelmingly dominant.
SGP:563 - 92 points. |
Hang on, there’s still a small spot available… |
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Hampden 'Great House Distillery Edition 2025' (57%, OB, Jamaica)
We have the honour and privilege of tasting this splendid edition each year. That said, it’s almost unthinkable that this youngster could climb above the incredible 2013 by The Roots, but we know it’s going to be very, very, very, very good… Unless… Colour: gold. Nose: what’s remarkable here is the absence of any extreme barrage (acetone and such), allowing the very ripe tropical fruits to shine through. Bananas and pineapples of course, sharp apples, guavas… But a few little shellfish pop in quickly. It’s utterly charming. With water: Hampden is like Mick Jagger’s voice, completely idiosyncratic no matter the situation or setting. Mouth (neat): nope, it’s loaded with carbon, tar, varnish, olive oil, samphire, and above all, seawater. With water: oh, it softens up a little, slightly oily, without the jaw-clenching character of some of the more extreme expressions, and quite astonishingly, there’s a touch of wild strawberry in here. Yes, I swear. Finish: long, with more brine. Comments: alternately heavyweight and welterweight, wild and civilised, biting and fruity. This baby might just be toying with us…
SGP:563 - 90 points. |
Stay strong, Jamaica! And to the other affected islands, stay strong too! |
 Check the index of all rums we've tasted
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November 1, 2025 |
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October 2025 |
Serge's favourite recent bottling this month:
Ex aequo:
Glenlivet 85 yo 1940/2025 'Artistry in Oak' (43.7%, Gordon & MacPhail, sherry butt, cask #336, 125 bottles) - WF 95
Port Ellen 42 yo 1983/2025 (56.4%, OB, 200th Anniversary, 150 bottles) - WF 95
Serge's favourite older bottling this month:
Glenfarclas-Glenlivet 15 yo (57 G.L., OB, All Malt Unblended, Pinerolo for Edward Giaccone, 75cl, early 1970s) - WF 93
Serge's favourite bang for your buck this month:
Talisker 10 yo (45.8%, OB, +/-2025) - WF 90
Serge's favourite malternative this month:
Cabeza Llena 1948/2025 (49.1%, La Maison & Velier, Cuba) - WF 94
Serge's thumbs up this month:
Ballindalloch 2016/2024 (60.8%, OB, for Germany, 1st fill bourbon barrel, cask #4, 265 bottles) - WF 90
Serge's Lemon Prize this month:
None (hurray!) |
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October 31, 2025 |
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WF's Little Duos,
today indie Deanston |
There’s always something going on over at Deanston, one of the distilleries that, in recent years, has benefitted most from the overblown trend of premiumisation and from the disappearance of certain brands from independent bottlers, brands which, perhaps, fancied themselves a bit too 'important' at some point. That’s just my personal take, of course, but I believe consumer goodwill is going to become increasingly important, and that modest, friendly brands will end up having the edge over distant and pretentious ones. But that’s just my two pence... |
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Deanston 11 yo 2014/2025 (49.7%, Lady of the Glen, Samhain Series, 1st fill PX quarter cask, cask #300223, 158 bottles)
A new series of bottlings revolving around tales, in this instance ‘The UFOs of the Falkirk Triangle’. We'll delve into that one later, but first things first, the whisky... Colour: amber. Nose: just a wee bit hot and spirity at first nosing, but massive waves of milk chocolate with raisins and praline fudge soon come rushing in to settle matters agreeably. Increasing amounts of salted butter caramel follow, alongside peanut butter and even millionaire's shortbread. Then roasted peanuts. And caramel-coated hazelnuts. You see where this is going, it's all charmingly nostalgic and sweet-shop-esque... Mouth: rather thick, with the PX and the cask both leading the charge, and I was about to say ‘naturally’, though this time it’s more molasses honey and corn syrup wrapping themselves round your palate, with just flickers of tobacco leaf and a dusting of nutmeg lingering behind. Crème catalane delivers the final persuasive touch – indeed, it’s truly good. And yes, nostalgic again. Finish: long, on vanilla chestnut purée, liquorice, and a wee hint of turmeric and black pepper in the aftertaste. Comments: a tad thick, rich, edging towards the sweet side, yet never quite cloying. Not exactly my preferred style, but I won’t deny it’s ex-cel-lent.
SGP:651 - 85 points. |
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Deanston 27 yo 1997/2025 (50.4%, Decadent Drinks, Decadent Drams, refill hogshead, 251 bottles)
Deanstons of this rather respectable age aren’t exactly thick on the ground. We’re quite fond of the label too, rumour has it it was designed on a Commodore 64 (just like Whiskyfun, come to think of it). Colour: white wine. Nose: it does feel a bit like a crafty elf had secretly blended Clynelish with Pulteney while everyone else was fast asleep. It’s true we’re more used to Deanstons that carry a heavier cask imprint, but this wee thing is very clean and waxy, on garden white and yellow fruits and fresh white bread with fennel seeds. With water: the fruits begin to overripen and even edge towards a touch of fermentation. And we’re all for it. Mouth (neat): this is really excellent, oily yet tense, with some beautifully subtle bitterness, waxiness once again, the skins of those same fruits (especially apples), and a few drops of eau-de-vie from tiny wild berries – service tree, rowan, holly and the like. A touch of salinity also emerges. With water: water makes it even oilier and fattier, also just a tad mechanical (engine grease comes to mind). The bitterness remains, with some curious meaty touches now creeping in. Finish: medium length, more bitter again, on roasted aubergines and baked artichokes. With a splash of olive oil. Comments: this time, and even if one tries not to let it count for too much, this is entirely my favourite style, I’m afraid.
SGP:462 - 90 points. |
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October 30, 2025 |
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Solera Session: another series full of blends
There are quite a few of these blends that might seem a bit unlikely, yet they’re often branded with great seriousness. Still, we find them rather endearing – and sometimes, they’re even excellent! Right then, let’s start with an old-fashioned aperitif… |
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Ye Auld Toun 12 yo (86 proof, OB, John Gillon & Co., Edward & Edward, Italy, 4/5 quart, 1970s)
A brand that once fell under the sway of Ainslie/Clynelish, which can hardly be unwelcome news, can it. Amusing contradiction between the American-style proof and centilitre conversion, and the clearly Italian destination, but were the ways of Eduardo ‘Baffo’ Giaccone ever meant to be straightforward... Colour: gold. Nose: if memory serves, Coleburn was the base malt in this one, and that would track, as we’re immediately greeted by those plump oily phenolics of a good Royal Edinburgh bottling, wrapped in a blanket of outrageously ripe banana and a drizzle of mead. Quite lovely in fact, with charming little plumes of ancient toolbox and crankcase oil wafting about. Mouth: impeccable, rich and generous, rolling across the tongue with a salinity and fatness that recall old apples, dusty peppercorns, grapeseed oil, vintage cognac, herbal cough syrup and salted butter caramel. In short, one might be tempted to whisper the phrase 'super-blend'. Finish: rather long, properly fat and almost chewy, smoky and saline to the point of flirting with a kind of Thai broth. Comments: now that’s a blend! There’s something White Horse-esque here, though a notch less smoky and noticeably rounder on the fat side. It even flirts with the Glen Brora blend at moments.
SGP:562 - 88 points. |
Alright, enough of the old stuff... |
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Dewar's 8 yo 'Portuguese Smooth' (40%, OB, blended scotch, +/-2025)
We do love Dewar’s, we cherish them, we’d almost consider marrying into the family, but really now, ‘Portuguese Smooth’? Right then, it’s a Port cask finish... Colour: gold. Nose: light, pleasant, rounded, with touches of damp earth and orange peel, and to be entirely fair, it doesn’t disgrace itself even after the rather splendid Ye Auld Toun. There’s a faint whisper of Campari (apologies) but no overt winey notes to speak of. Mouth: well, this is good. They’ve managed to preserve a certain tautness, mostly thanks to the oranges again, and while it does rather throw in the towel partway through, there’s precious little to grumble about. Finish: not short, slightly bitter. The return of the Italian bitters, brand names unnecessary. Comments: one imagines this would fare even better over ice.
SGP:461 - 78 points. |
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Woven 'Hemisphere' (51.4%, OB, world blend, +/-2024)
A blend involving New Zealand whisky smoked with manuka wood, along with a measure of Scottish malt. And why ever not? It rather sounds like a World Cup rugby fixture, doesn’t it. Colour: white wine. Nose: a lick of tarry smoke to start, followed by stewed fruits and an increasing sense of garden bonfire and even some hay burning quietly in the background. It’s charming. With water: fresh rubber – Nike, Puma, Adidas and the rest – followed by a very attractive note of proper farmhouse cider. Mouth (neat): the distillates come out swinging, rugged, herbal, rooty and earthy, bursting with youthful vigour. A touch of olive oil as well – did you know olive oil is going to save the world? With water: a rubbery smokiness returns, now with a sweeter edge of root vegetables, carrot purée springs to mind. Finish: long, quirky, unusual, with flickers of old vinyl and salsify. We did say it was unusual. Salty aftertaste, skirting smoked ham territory. Comments: well, we do like this oddball.
SGP:453 - 84 points. |
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Compass Box 'Brulée Royale' (49%, OB, blended Scotch, 2025)
Apparently this oddly named creature – particularly odd in French – contains Aberlour, Ardbeg, Clynelish and Speyburn. The real headline here, of course, is Speyburn, isn’t it Jon in Drumnadrochit? Colour: white wine. Nose: celery! Fennel! Sorrel! Turnip! What curious garden spell is this? Beneath all that, crème brûlée indeed, lemon drops, pear lozenges and coconut snowballs. It’s rather amusing. Mouth: everything comes together around the malt, could be mistaken for a slightly smoky Speysider, focused on sweetshop delights, jammy things, boiled sweets and a pint of something very hoppy. Finish: fairly long, leaning more into citrus now, quite robust and countryside-driven in the end. Plenty of youthful energy. A hint of sugar on the aftertaste. Comments: the youth shows, but a very fruity kind of youth, one happily conferred. A neat composition, as ever from Compass Box.
SGP:652 - 83 points. |
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Black Bull 18 yo (50%, OB, blended Scotch, +/-2025) 
We quite like the new minimalist labels. Not sure whether the brand is still under the wing of Duncan Taylor – we’ll need to look into that. Colour: white wine. Nose: this BB isn’t far off the CB, fruity, cheerful, lightly smoky and faintly earthy, with notes of windfallen apples and raw carrot. Quite a lot of carrot, actually. With water: turnips and celery glazed with honey. High-brow cuisine, you know. Mouth (neat): remarkable, it’s almost the same whisky as that oddly named Compass Box, not quite sure what’s going on there. Perhaps the art of blending smooths out all the quirks and jagged edges? With water: we’re a bit adrift, but it’s undeniably good. Finish: medium length, middle-of-the-road profile, nothing out of place. A lovely earthy note and a touch of pear. Comments: this Black Bull probably won’t turn the whisky world on its head, but one must admit it’s a well-made blend.
SGP:442 - 81 points. |
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Johnnie Walker 'Blue Label Ice Chalet' (43%, OB, blended Scotch, 2024)
A very pricey blend (£300), crafted by the superstar master blender, the fantastic and charming Emma Walker, who surely holds one of the finest jobs in the world. The story goes that this blend is built around malts from high-altitude Scottish distilleries – and to think we didn’t even know there were high-altitude distilleries in Scotland. Dalwhinnie, perhaps? Colour: gold. Nose: funny how the mind works – I’d swear this smells ‘fresh’! Pretty notes of earth, stone, roots (gentian), dandelion and gentle honeys. Mouth: this is very well done indeed, saline, malty, lightly smoky, with a coastal dimension (altitude, you say?) and a good spread of fresh exotic fruits – wee pineapples, pink bananas, even a dash of passion fruit. Finish: not overly long but fresh, fruity and nicely balanced. Comments: a very, very well-composed blend from a blue bottle that looks slightly out of place on a traditionalist's shelf, but we’re not here to talk about design...
SGP:632 - 88 points. |
While we’re at Johnnie’s… |
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Johnnie Walker 'Blue Label Elusive Umami' (43%, OB, blended Scotch, 1l, 2023) 
A blend crafted in collaboration with star chef Kei Kobayashi, in Paris, holder of three Michelin stars. Which doesn’t necessarily mean it all went sideways, nor that it’s all marketing fluff – let’s not be too cynical, please... Of course, the 43% vol. doesn’t exactly set the pulse racing, but one never knows. Colour: gold. Nose: not much umami to report so far, more along the lines of apple tart glazed with honey and sweet wine. In short, classic Johnnie Walker Blue Label, which remains a very good blend, to be fair. Perhaps the umami will show on the palate... Mouth: afraid the Ice Chalet is vastly superior here. A rougher, more rustic affair, rather uninspiring and not exactly inviting. No comprendo mucho. Finish: fairly long but frankly middling, and truth be told, one isn’t clamouring for it to linger. Comments: not quite to our taste, though we might still pop into Kei’s one day to see what the fuss is about. I wouldn’t trade a single half-bottle of Ice Chalet for a case of Elusive Umami, that’s for sure.
SGP:531 - 72 points. |
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MacPhail's 40 yo (46%, Gordon & MacPhail, single malt, +/-2025)
Not even under torture, nor under threat of a tête-à-tête with Donald Trump or Vladimir Putin, would anyone at G&M reveal what’s actually in MacPhail’s. Believe me, we’ve tried. Colour: deep gold. Nose: sublime raisins, honey, metal polish, old sweet wines, damp earth and ancient sherries. It’s simply splendid and – dare one say it – just a touch Macallan-esque. Merely an impression, fleeting and by no means conclusive. Mouth: bloody hell (oops), this is good! Perfect tension and freshness in spite of the age, overripe apples, plums and oranges, old passito or vin de paille, then just a shade too much old wood, manifesting as slightly oversteeped black tea. Finish: long, herbal, woody, that’s the wee Achilles’ heel right there. Strong mint and pepper. Not that it matters – it’s excellent. Comments: not that it matters indeed – it’s excellent indeed.
SGP:571 - 89 points. |
(Thank you mucho, Stéphane) |
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October 29, 2025 |
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Glenfarclas is back on WF, with all due fanfare
I believe it had been over two years since we last tasted an official Glenfarclas, for reasons far too long-winded to go into here. Perhaps we're just a little too sensitive? But you see, the delightful Debbie won us over, and here we are again! No, no, we won’t say another word, not even under torture, but let’s start with a little aperitif...
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Glenfarclas 8 yo (40%, OB, Pure Malt, Saccone & Speed London, 75cl, +/-1980)
One can see why the SWA eventually felt compelled to tidy up the nomenclature around vatted and pure malts, what with some 'blended' rather cheekily calling themselves 'pure', indeed. This handsome bottle was part of a tasting session put on by Whisky.Auction and led by the ever-knowledgeable Dr Nick Morgan. Colour: full gold. Nose: heavily on the toffee, a proper mix of sherry and paxarette, with maple syrup aplenty, then leaning towards earthy and metallic tones that may well betray a touch of good old OBE. Mouth: rich considering the modest strength, full of sultanas and toffee again, yet showing freshness from fruits such as fully ripe figs, and even dried ones. By the way, let us not forget that the fig is not truly some fruit, but rather a casing that holds thousands of tiny flowers. But let us not wander off... Finish: medium in length, mellower and richer still. Comments: the standard was high in those days, although do bear in mind a good OBE might have lent a helping hand here.
SGP:641 - 88 points. |
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Glenfarclas 2014/2025 'Easter Edition' (46%, OB, Germany, sherry casks, 3000 bottles)
Hurrah, we’ve managed to taste this Easter edition before Christmas for once. Colour: gold. Nose: this is a rather oily GF yet also livelier and fruitier on the nose, with a fairly moderate sherry influence, somewhat reminiscent of the older 15-year-old, if that rings any bells. It goes on with hints of gas and truffle that might be a touch less thrilling, but on the other hand the florals do appear as well, especially dandelion. And herbal teas... Mouth: a slightly sulphury side to start, then tarte tatin and orange liqueur, tobacco, a touch of caramel... Finish: fairly long, still lightly sulphured. Comments: there are some wonderful facets here, but also these faintly rustic notes that call to mind brake pads and an old, poorly ventilated underground car park. Pretty likeable, though a little tricky to pin down...
SGP:551 - 81 points. |
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Glenlitigious 12 yo 2012/2025 (50%, Decadent Drinks, Decadent Drams, 2nd fill sherry hogshead, 218 bottles)
The label is quite hilarious! The 12-year-old from 2024 had been excellent (WF 88). Colour: pale gold. Nose: beautiful malt with a sherry presence that’s discreet yet clearly there, sitting in perfect balance between Mars bars, walnut liqueur and chestnut honey. One might call it the epitome of a traditional young own-family Speysider, though perhaps without venturing far enough to invite legal correspondence. With water: triple sec and tobacco appear, both in gentle moderation. Mouth (neat): orange chocolate and English breakfast tea. Very good indeed. With water: still lovely, this time with a touch of sweet chestnut purée and vanilla. Finish: fairly long, superbly balanced and highly convincing on the maltiness front. Comments: why aren’t all official 12-year-old Speyside malts this good? I see no reason not to award it the same score as last year.
SGP:551 - 88 points. |
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Glenfarclas 11 yo 2011/2023 (56.5%, North Star Spirits, oloroso sherry butt, 402 bottles)
Colour: gold. Nose: all in on fudge, salted butter caramel, marshmallow and cappuccino, if not a certain Frappuccino ™ from you-know-where. A drop of coffee liqueur à la Kahlua ™ or Tia Maria ™. With water: a faint smoky touch (exhaust fumes) that suits us perfectly, this might well be a malt for petrolheads. A light gingery note as well. Mouth (neat): this is really good, still very much on coffee and its many permutations, then orange zest and countless roasted hazelnuts, almonds and peanuts. Feels very close to an official bottling, if you ask me. With water: it turns a tad more herbaceous and spicier, which is hardly unusual in official expressions either. Finish: long, more on bitterness now, but in a most pleasing way. Comments: very good, I find this one closer to official standards than the official we started this wee session with.
SGP:651 - 86 points. |
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Glenfarclas 12 yo '105' (60%, OB, Germany exclusive, sherry, 4,200 bottles, 2025)
Our German neighbours have always had a soft spot for Glenfarclas, and as far back as I can recall, there have always been plenty of limited editions just for that fine country. Sadly, we don’t have a recent ‘standard’ version of the 105 to hand—we would have liked to compare. Colour: amber. Nose: honestly, take the ‘North Star’, dial it up a few notches, and there you are. Archetypal stuff. With water: same again. Mouth (neat): really very good, classically styled, with just a faint note of geranium and violet slipping in here. With water: still excellent, malty, chocolatey and full of toasted walnuts and hazelnuts. Finish: long, a bit more on cinnamon, ginger and, above all, nutmeg. Orange blossom and liquorice in the aftertaste. Still excellent. Comments: pure Glenfarclas.
SGP:651 - 86 points. |
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Glenfarclas 20 yo 2004/2024 (56%, OB for Tiffany's New York Bar Hong Kong and OBE Whisky, refill sherry hogshead, cask #2032, 108 bottles)
Colour: amber. Nose: another textbook Glenfarclas, though this one leans a little more towards varnishes and wax polishes, which we naturally adore. The rest splits itself between walnuts, roasted peanuts, chestnut honey, prunes and milk chocolate. Very hard to fault at this stage. Mind you, that’s hardly the goal. With water: still ultra-classic, though now it takes on more earthy tones, cigars, and even a few touches of juniper and cumin sneaking in. You may as well add a few drops of the fine spirits those talented folk up north in Europe are producing using those ingredients. Mouth (neat): rather oily, opening on orange zest and ginger slices dipped in chocolate, the sort of treats you’d enjoy with a good coffee. Just like this GF, without doubt. It then heads straight for absolutely pure dark chocolate, with just a peppery trace or two. With water: it’s the floral notes that lift the whole affair to new heights, truly lovely. An irresistible peony note emerges here, it gains several points at this stage, not that such things matter, of course. Finish: long, fresh, and surprisingly more complex. And here come the oranges! A beautiful finale, Springsteen-style (what?). Comments: a proper cinematic experience; I'm sure if we gave it another quarter of an hour, it’d reach 90.
SGP:561 - 89 points. |
We were planning to stop there for our rekindling with Glenfarclas, but since it's going so well, we might as well throw a few more into the mix, alright? |
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Glenfarclas 'Passion' (46%, OB, sherry casks, 6,000 bottles, 2014)
An older edition, but you see, it’s always a pleasure to spot George Grant on a label... Colour: gold. Nose: light sherry, jelly babies, dandelion and mullein syrup, fresh malt, sugarcane syrup. Seems like a rather playful version, definitely a departure from the usual paths. Mouth: really good, not overly complex, malty, unfolding on baked apple drizzled with honey and cinnamon, then chicory coffee and a few fresh mint leaves. Finish: pleasant, not very long, on twigs and fruit peelings. Comments: to be honest this wasn’t the most majestic of all the GFs, but as the saying goes, it did the job.
SGP:541 - 82 points. |
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Glenfarclas 2012/2024 'Vintage' (46%, OB, Trinity Vintage Series, sherry)
From oloroso casks sourced from the bodega José y Miguel Martín in the heart of Jerez. Colour: gold. Nose: a classic sherry profile, though leaning a touch more towards soy sauce, umami, Bovril and that whole family of things, though in moderation, we wouldn’t quite call it ‘savoury’. The rest is on chocolate, caramel and malt. Mouth: very close to the ‘Passion’, though with more pronounced sherry influence. Oranges, walnuts, raisins, candied cherry, vanilla and dried pear... Not a thing to complain about, this is really very good. Finish: fairly long, a little more on honey. Fir honey, cinnamon, clove. Comments: really very good, in a classic style that’s not fallen out of fashion. Well, not here at WF at any rate.
SGP:551 - 83 points. |
Let’s head back, then, to the Far Eastern independents… |
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Speyside 21 yo (55.3%, Oxhead Whisky, oloroso sherry hogshead, cask #4593, 195 bottles, 2024)
Nothing here suggests this couldn’t be Glenfarclas. Colour: gold. Nose: back to a classic profile, with millionaire’s shortbread, maple syrup, baked apple and roasted chestnuts. In short, very much in season. With water: dark ales, farmhouse cider, black bread. Mouth (neat): on the palate the spices speak first—green walnut, ginger, pepper... All in all, quite herbal and spicy, a little astringent, and no doubt in need of a splash of water to open up. With water: it does round off, bringing herbal liqueurs and lemon zest into play. The spices remain firmly in charge though. Finish: long and a touch drying. Comments: overall very good, just perhaps a tad austere and herbal for a Glenfarclas of this fine age.
SGP:461 - 84 points. |
How about inviting an older edition? Even if it risks blowing this little reconciliation session to pieces? Hey, this is WF, is it not? |
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Glenfarclas-Glenlivet 15 yo (57 G.L., OB, All Malt Unblended, Pinerolo for Edward Giaccone, 75cl, early 1970s)
Eduardo ‘Baffo’ Giaccone, of course... The good man did, after all, select some of the most fabulous versions of our favourite malts, from Clynelish to... Glenfarclas. Colour: gold. Nose: Houston!... Mandarins, basalt, beeswax, first rainwater, late-season wild mushrooms, honeysuckle and old Meursault. Must we really add anything more? With water: utterly sublime, evoking all the great white wines from the finest vintages of the last century. Nothing further to say. Mouth (neat): absolute beauty, minty firmness, sultanas de la muerte and venerable Italian and French liqueurs. We shan’t list them all, shall we? With water: tiny animal touches emerge, mutton fat, hams, salamis, suet, dried meats, marrow quenelles, and assorted Japanese and Chinese ‘things’. Forgive this ultra-condensed version of our impressions, but we’ve decided to moderate our use of maltoporn. Temporarily... Finish: rather long and sublimely saline, full of all the greatest broths of creation. Comments: that’ll do nicely; this bottle is near impossible to find anyway.
SGP:562 - 93 points. |
Hold on, before we wrap up, we’ve got a last-minute surprise guest: a little neighbour who really impressed us at Whisky Live Hamburg. It might not be the time or place to taste it, but there you go, we reckon it won’t waver in the slightest, even after that magnificent old gem from Glenfarclas… |
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Ballindalloch 2016/2024 (60.8%, OB, for Germany, 1st fill bourbon barrel, cask #4, 265 bottles)
It’s starting to get a bit embarrassing, one gets the feeling our dear German friends are snapping up everything good coming out of the townlet of Ballindalloch. We might have to start keeping an eye on Cragganmore while we’re at it. Just kidding, of course... Colour: Nose: white wine. Nose: candied mandarins and pistachio oil, plus still-warm buttery croissants straight from the oven, all beneath a faultlessly clean line, accurate down to the micron. With water: a medley of rustic breads of every imaginable sort, no exceptions, with traces of vanilla pod and a faint hint of geranium potting soil—much loved in Alsace. Mouth (neat): barley, orange, lemon, wax, coriander seeds. Why overcomplicate things... With water: breads and dried fruits, mainly citrus, arranged by some divine entity. Finish: long, slightly more peppery, but wonderful all the same. Comments: a bit of a ‘Daftmill but a little further north’ vibe, if you see what I mean. You feel the original ingredients resonating through and through.
SGP:651 - 90 points. |
We’d already tasted Ballindalloch before, but we probably hadn’t quite summoned the energy to really get to the heart of it. Admittedly, there are literally thousands of new malt distilleries around the world these days, but this one feels like serious stuff. Right then, see you soon... As for Glenfarclas, we’ll be back next year, cross our hearts. In any case, thank goodness for Debbie. Isn't whisky mainly, or perhaps only about people? |
PS: note that a few independent bottlers have occasionally used the name 'Ballindalloch' for some more or less secret Glenfarclas bottlings, but this has nothing to do with the recent Ballindalloch distillery, from which we've just tasted a superb example. |
(Merci to Thierry and The golden Promise) |
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October 28, 2025 |
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The World Sessions,
A new little malty journey around the world |
Setting off from France, of course, let’s make the most of it while neither the air traffic controllers nor the railway workers, perhaps not exactly the crème de la crème of French society, are on strike… |
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Trésor Légendaire (44%, Marcel Cabelier, sherry, vin jaune finish, +/-2025)
Unmistakably a malt whisky that seems to hail from the Jura, although the distillery remains unnamed. That said, we've already sampled another expression from this house, and it had rather tickled our fancy back then. Colour: gold. Nose: barley, ripe apples and fresh walnuts—what more could one ask for? Extremely faint traces of aniseed and caraway lurking in the background. The vin jaune influence is subtle yet unmistakably present. Mouth: the fact is, this unlikely bottle turns out to be excellent, offering caramelised walnuts, wee apples, toasted rustic bread and a dash of liquorice wood, all wrapped in a saline touch that evokes the nearby Royal Saltworks of Arc-et-Senans. Finish: of medium length, ever so slightly mustardy, entirely consistent with the vin jaune style. Still a bit of a mystery whether we're squarely in Arbois territory or perhaps further south. Well done, Grands Chais! Comments: I wasn't expecting this level of quality, to be honest.
SGP:462 – 86 points. |
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Uberach 2005/2025 (47.9%, LMDW Version Française, Banyuls cask, 251 bottles)
Dear, dear LMDW, if I may say so, the mention of 'Grand Est' on the label instead of 'Alsace' is most unwelcome. Will your next champagnes be labelled 'Grand Est' as well? And what of mirabelle from Lorraine? Rozelieures, perhaps? Said in all friendship, of course... That aside, it is rather sad that Uberach, i.e. the Bertrand distillery, has ceased 'smoking', as it once boasted France’s most formidable master, citizen Jean Metzger, prince and pioneer of French whisky. Let me add we had already tasted this baby during a masterclass at Whisky Live Paris, and I believe it was quite the hit. Colour: deep gold. Nose: it would appear that this unlikely pairing of Alsatian malt and Banyuls has resulted in notes of new tyres, charcoal, herbes de Provence on the grill, rosewood and fresh latex. How amusing. Mouth: it’s nothing short of miraculous that this works so well, but let’s not forget Jean used to play Hendrix and Zappa to his casks during maturation. No surprise, then, that we find here notes of muffins shrouded in a purple haze. Joking aside, the liquorice pastille that wraps it all up turns this into a proper little gem. Finish: long, with blackcurrant and liquorice, a curious combination that almost drifts into an improbable watermelon (in Easter hay). Comments: magnificent and moving. Jean, keep in touch.
SGP:651 – 89 points. |
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Agitator 'Chestnut Cask' (43%, OB, Sweden, +/-2024)
A ‘vacuum distilled’ malt (but we’ll come back to that later), matured in chestnut casks, a type that was once widely used for transport, notably by the Burgundians, as it was cheaper and far easier to work with than oak. Word has it you can still unearth old chestnut casks in Scotland, though of course, while traditional, they’re now officially illegal. Shh... Colour: full gold. Nose: I imagine what we’re detecting here mirrors the difference between chestnut honey—one of my favourites—and oak honeydew, pleasant but rather more common and less refined. Brave bees! In short, a light resinous side and hints of chestnut purée. With whipped cream, naturally. Mouth: this is good, slightly more resinous and indeed honeyed, with what we might call foresty notes—mosses, ferns, that sort of thing—along with a faint sawdustiness, perhaps a little less charming, let’s say. Finish: medium in length, and decidedly on marrons glacés and fir honey. Comments: I wouldn’t call it the innovation of the century, but personally I quite like it—very much, in fact.
SGP:351 – 83 points. |
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Archie Rose x Whisky Abbey (50%, Single Malt Australian Whisky, 2024)
Here we are in Sydney, Downunda. I don’t quite know what to expect, but Casa de Vinos seems to be involved, which is rather like receiving a letter of recommendation from Winston Churchill. Randomly. Colour: full gold. Nose: LOL, as we used to say. Hugely expressive, with a mash-up of cereals, cumin and honey, all properly fermented as one might hope, then prunes, roots veering toward carrot, molasses and pumpernickel. In short, it’s very ‘new world’, and naturally, here in the old one, we rather love that—particularly the faint roguishness about it. Mouth: fat and hugely expressive, with carnations, cinnamon, strawberry, lychee, coffee, pine sap and liquorice—a wildly improbable flavour combo that somehow works like a recently serviced Patek Philippe. Finish: long, now saltier, more tertiary, fermentary and umamified. There. Comments: frankly, it’s a bit bonkers, but we absolutely love this delightfully refreshing anti-classicism.
SGP:562 – 88 points. |
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Thy 'PX and Oloroso' (49.5%, OB, Denmark, 2024)
This appears to be Odyssey barley, smoked over beechwood. And why ever not? We are admittedly a little weary of PX these days, but let’s remain civil and stay focused... Colour: full gold. Nose: it’s mainly the wood that takes hold here, giving the impression the distillate’s been gently swept under the rug. Roasted chestnuts, toasted bread, the faintest hint of mastic... Mouth: it improves greatly on the palate, though the herbs and wood resins still dominate somewhat, with a sprucey character that’s actually rather pleasant, if a touch overpowering. The sherry doesn’t seem to have much to say in this case, though we’re not sufficiently familiar with Thy’s distillate to pass firm judgement. Finish: fairly long, but led by lemon, pine and fir. Comments: cracking stuff, though really quite polarising. Perhaps best reserved for true Vikings, of which we most certainly are not... We've found other Thys much more convincing.
SGP:373 – 80 points. |
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Penderyn 15 yo 2010/2025 (56.8%, OB, LMDW Itinéraires, Wales, bourbon barrel)
Penderyn is one of those distilleries that left us rather cold at first—perhaps due to an overenthusiastic use of Madeira casks and the like—but which has gradually won us over over the years with purer, more natural expressions. The only remaining question is whether these very tall bottles actually fit on standard Ikea shelves. Colour: gold. Nose: it’s oily and rooty, somewhere between celery, carrot and a blend of sunflower and peanut oils. The vanilla from the bourbon barrel merely softens it all ever so slightly. With water: barley fields and vanilla pods. Mouth (neat): mango ice cream and orange liqueur, with some floral glimmers. Absolutely nothing to complain about here. With water: edging slightly towards the Irish style—Bushmills comes to mind. A little coconut, ripe apple, fresh oak. Finish: fairly long, with a hint of green tannins, though the whole remains really… lovely. Gorgeous ‘aeroplane’ mangoes. Comments: gearing up for the Six Nations, you see. When is it again—Wales vs France?
SGP:551 – 85 points. |
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Rampur 9 yo 2016/2025 (57.5%, OB, LMDW Itinéraires, India, bourbon barrel, cask #2411)
Here we are in Uttar Pradesh, northern India, Mughal territory—home to the Taj Mahal, no less. Colour: gold. Nose: mad stuff, all on gewürztraminer, mei-kwei-lu, rose petals and lychee syrup. Possibly a touch OTT, one might suspect some enzyme tinkering in the lab... let’s dig a little deeper. With water: things settle down slightly, as oranges and pink grapefruit begin to emerge. Mouth (neat): almost too perfect, bursting with mango, heather honey and passion fruit sorbet. With water: lemon and yes, grass, come in to add just the right amount of acidity, restoring balance with remarkable precision. Finish: fairly long, again with an almost indecent exotic fruitiness. Still, one can’t help loving those gewurzy notes. Comments: terribly hard to score, given that slightly, erm, let’s say ‘uninhibited’ side. Apologies. But heavens, it’s delicious!
SGP:751 – 85 points. |
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October 27, 2025 |
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A little quartet of Lagavulin, some rather secretive
We get the impression, whether true or not, that distilleries which usually prevent independents from using their names are becoming a bit more relaxed, as we’re seeing more and more subtle (and not-so-subtle) hints appearing on the labels. Mind you, when times get tough, people tend to be a little less fussy... But let’s begin with a proper, official Lagavulin, thankfully free from tequila or any other such 'delights' this time... |
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Classic combo (2006, WF Archive) |
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Lagavulin 12 yo 'Grain & Embers' (56.5%, OB, Special Release 2025, refill, PX and oloroso-seasoned casks)
Grains and embers? Well, that does sound rather reassuring, doesn’t it? That said, one must concede that our less whisky-versed friends aren’t entirely wrong when they ask what exactly makes a 12-year-old ‘special’, when a 16-year-old is merely ‘normal’. Answers on a postcard please (looks like no one reads emails anymore). Colour: white wine. Nose: orgeat syrup, lemon preserve, seawater, damp wool, wee touches of tar and smoked salmon, though the whole ensemble strikes me as very mild, very kind, nearly harmless for Lagavulin. With water: more tincture of iodine, Mercurochrome, oysters. Phew! Mouth (neat): pronounced sweetness, perhaps that’s the PX at play? Once again this jammy profile, plum preserve, then more green pepper and dried seaweed, so all in all we’re firmly back on Islay. With water: still sweet, but the DNA is clearly there, even if it’s rather swaddled in softness. One is reminded a little of gentian liqueur. Finish: fairly long, a little more peppery, though still on the sweet side. More ashes towards the back. Comments: this is really good, but I think I liked last year’s version a lot better, which was much freer and more natural (WF 91). I also much prefer, by quite a margin, the 16-year-old. But you’re right, chacun son truc. To be fair, the press release did warn us: this year’s Special Releases were to be “reinterpreted through unconventional cask finishes”. Hmm...
SGP:655 - 85 points. |
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South Coast Islay Malt 15 yo 2008/2024 (51.8%, Liquid Treasure for The Antelope, Macau, refill hogshead, cask #L0845A)
Colour: pale gold. Nose: this means business, very precise, rich yet controlled, tarry without going overboard, not necessarily Lagavulin either, could just as well be a slightly leaner, less overtly phenolic Ardbeg, with a lovely earthy-citrusy-patchouli combo. With water: hessian sacks, dunnage warehouse, tar, pitch, liquorice, engine oil, old British motorcycle. Mouth (neat): really excellent, though again one hesitates between two distilleries, not that getting it right is the point. Lovely fat peat, saline and lemony, plus faint notes of petrol. I know what you're thinking... With water: superb rooty tension. Finish: long, precise, earthy, with a funny impression of celeriac smoked over peat. Comments: maybe it’s the L at the start of the cask number that’s throwing us off. In any case, this is excellent and thoroughly buries the (not so) Special Release.
SGP:656 - 90 points. |
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South Coast Islay Malt 18 yo 2007/2025 (56.6%, The Antelope and Kanpaikai, refill hogshead, cask #L0701A)
A Macao–Japan alliance. Sounds like everything should go swimmingly... Colour: pale white wine. Nose: yes, stop, halt everything, dried flowers, autumn twigs (really?) and thyme tisane. Then beechwood smoke rather than peat, beach sand, fresh vinyl, and green pepper straight from the Andromeda Galaxy. It sends the rather modest Special Release ad patres in no time at all. With water: fresh paint, carbolineum, tar, new plastic. Mouth (neat): utterly pristine, superb tar, smoked fish, tobacco, oysters, seawater, olives and a faint touch of—wait—Talisker? Must be the maritime side playing tricks. With water: now we’re truly levelling up. Little black olives, seashells, pepper... Finish: same, and it lasts for quite some time. Comments: we loved the 15, but this is clearly operating on an even higher plane.
SGP:566 - 91 points. |
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Lagavulin 31 yo 1991/2022 (53.4%, OB, Casks of Distinction for Jimmy Chen, cask #P5C3, 119 bottles)
Colour: dark gold. Nose: a much rounder Lagavulin, jammier, on all manner of dried fruits, raisins galore, though that’s only the beginning, as a slightly wild peat soon breaks through the lid (S., what lid?) to express its smoky and camphory side, becoming increasingly medicinal, heading towards eucalyptus and menthol. With every passing second, it all gets more assertive. With water: and there it is, camphor, leather, mint and “beach” ashes. Mouth (neat): clearly sumptuous, locked in a duel between citrus and saline elements, with ash and tar refereeing, and the dried fruits reduced to mere spectators. What a cask! And don’t count on it mellowing out, it’s a fighter to the end. With water: things go fractal, chartreuse, herbal teas, verbena, camphor, roots, mint, berries, truffles, oysters and assorted shellfish, liquorice... Finish: liquorice takes over completely, Miles Davis style (so what? - ooh that's smart, S.) Comments: gives the impression of a very light, very well-behaved PX influence that never dares contradict the distillate. In the end, it’s the opposite of the 18, yet they stand on exactly the same level, according to your humble servant.
SGP:556 - 91 points. |
All we can do now is hope that the 2026 Special Release of Lagavulin is once again up to the extremely high standard of the 2024. I now understand why they promoted the 2025 edition so discreetly, almost sheepishly... (probably just a personal impression) ... |
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October 26, 2025 |
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A word of caution
Let me please remind you that my humble assessments of any spirits are done from the point of view of a malt whisky enthusiast who, what's more, is aboslutely not an expert in rum, brandy, tequila, vodka, gin or any other spirits. Thank you – and peace! |
We send our heartfelt support and strength to the people of Jamaica as they face Hurricane Melissa. |
Some more rums
With joy and good cheer! We'll notably be getting another very, very old Cuban, a rare independent La Favorite, and of course, some Hampden.
The very fine people from Takamaka brought their Mini Moke to Whisky Live Germany last week. With that distinctive colour, one might assume they could then rent it out to Bruichladdich.(WF) |
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Takamaka 'Pti Lakaz Batch #3' (45.1%, OB, Seychelles, +/-2025)
Here comes a rum made from pure cane juice blended with molasses-based distillate, with a bit of meddling from Port casks and Foursquare barrels. Quite the concoction, but it’s the outcome that matters, isn’t it? Colour: gold. Nose: charming nose, fairly on the fermentary side to start with, with clear hints of diesel oil right from the off, then it pivots towards more exotic fruit, ripe mango and banana come to mind, before gradually veering into liquorice territory. All things considered, it’s rather dry and seriously well-composed. Mouth: liquorice and molasses up front, with a tiny pinch of salt, followed by marzipan laced with kirsch, and just a few drops of aniseed liqueur. Finish: sameish... Comments: we’re quite a bit closer to a Caribbean or even Martinican profile here, rather than the usual Indian Ocean style, Mauritius in particular tending to the sweeter side. Pretty splendid rum and three cheers for the Seychelles! We’ll have more Takamaka in the coming weeks.
SGP:552 - 83 points. |
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Ron Bodega 6 yo 'Batch 001' (46%, OB, Scotland, 2025)
A molasses-based rum from BrewDog Distilling Co., matured in a rather curious mix of oloroso, bourbon, and red Bordeaux casks—quite the cocktail. Colour: gold. Nose: the wine influence is fairly pronounced, bringing notes of blackcurrant bud and blackberry, with some rather surprising leeky undertones, a touch of beer (unless our brain is leading us astray again), and a little whiff of new rubber. Distinctive indeed, not unpleasant in the slightest, and not a million miles from a modern whisky either. Mouth: fresh, lemony and yeasty at first, then it leans more towards the herbal side, straddling several categories really, and not just rum. Liquorice eventually ties it all together. Finish: medium length, with hints of lemon balm. Comments: curiously herbal and not at all bad, though perhaps it suffers slightly in comparison to that lovely fellow from the Seychelles.
SGP:351 - 79 points. |
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Père Labat 5 yo 2017/2022 (46%, Tres Hombres, Marie-Galante)
This young rum matured on Marie-Galante before making its way to Europe aboard the 40-tonne sailing cargo vessel Tres Hombres, a five-month voyage said to have added a bit of 'stirring' and presumably a touch of maritime character. In any case, we do like Père Labat. Colour: pale gold. Nose: that unmistakable blend of fresh cane juice, aniseed, coriander and poppy seeds, underpinned by a rather earthy base with a whiff of mint, not unlike some top-notch small-batch cachaça. Mouth: we’re very fond of this singular style, herbaceous, earthy and distinctly anisic, with fennel, fermenting exotic fruits, and a lively citrus edge that lends it a lovely tension. Finish: long, sailing off into... craft pastis land. Both literally and figuratively, mind you as the ship did connect the islands to the mainland after all. Comments: absolutely brilliant, and one imagines it would make a stratospheric ti-punch.
SGP:562 - 87 points. |
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Very Fine Old Rum from Cuba 30 yo 1993/2024 (49.6%, Delia's Whiskyshop and The Whisky Agency, barrel, Christmas 2024)
We’re not entirely sure of the precise origins of these Cubans—there are whispers, naturally—but we’d rather dive straight into the tasting. Colour: gold. Nose: coconut macaroons, chamomile, sugarcane and dandelion honey, nothing earth-shattering in itself, but the molecular arrangement is spot-on and we’re utterly charmed by the overall impression. This simple yet patisserie-like freshness is just perfect. Above all, it smells unmistakably of Cuba. Mouth: gentle, yet always close to the cane, with a touch of earth, molasses honey, two or three salmiak pastilles, then a café latte with a drop of liquid liquorice stirred in. The background is more intricate, with white pepper gradually building. Finish: medium in length, becoming saltier, even more on the salmiak, but always with a soft touch. Pink grapefruit and lemongrass linger in the aftertaste. Comments: a delightful Cuban, fresh and lifted.
SGP:551 - 89 points. |
Seeing as we're in Cuba... |
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Cabeza Llena 1948/2025 (49.1%, La Maison & Velier, Cuba)
Rumour has it these extremely old Cubans, fully aged on the island, hail from the remaining stocks of the former Havana Club distillery, Vizcaya, which was nationalised and subsequently shuttered by Fidel, who redirected production to other facilities, notably Bacardi, which had also been nationalised. We've already had the chance to taste some examples from this 1948 stock, and they were so marvellous that, dare we say it, we almost feel compelled to thank Mr Castro, posthumously. Truth be told, these casks might never have survived without his intervention in the early 1960s... but claro, let’s move swiftly on. Colour: amber. Nose: the first impression is that of opening a box of fine chocolates from a top-tier chocolatier, think Patrick Roger, Ferber in Niedermorschwihr, or Jacques Génin, but precious woods soon come to the fore: rosewood, macassar ebony, walnut, with a sensation not unlike sitting inside a freshly reupholstered vintage Jag. Beeswax too. The rest unfolds in waves of toasted hazelnuts, pecans, delicate tobaccos (not necessarily Cuban), and a lovely infusion of linden blossom. It is, naturally, glorious. Mouth: the esters! Completely unexpected! That green olive and pickled gherkin sharpness, beautifully sour and acidic, then a medley of vintage sweets and cough syrups (PulMoll springs to mind) with eucalyptus and cinchona leading the dance for a while. Then come the chocolates again, especially fruit ganaches, with mango standing out. Simply irresistible. Finish: long, saline, almost sherry-like, with walnuts and lovely touches of rancio. Comments: more than just a great rum, this is a truly great spirit that should also delight fans of fine malt, cognac or armagnac. What’s more, the price seems very well judged—seriously now, it’s seventy-seven years old! Less than 2K€.
SGP:562 - 94 points. |
Well, it'll take some real beasts to live up to that wonder... |
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Martinique 7 yo 2017/2025 "MMLF" (65.4%, Rum de Luxe, Wild Series, cask #14, 258 bottles)
From some sharp independent bottlers in Denmark, this is a secret Martinican rum aged on the continent, though the marque rings a very loud bell. With LF, La Favorite comes to mind. Colour: white wine. Nose: the beauty of temperate ageing in inactive wood, which lets the distillate sing almost a cappella, like some William Byrd or Palestrina. Truly, this is a near-religious nose, with unfathomable purity and freshness, on sweet woodruff and wild garlic, with the gentlest touch of vanilla, as soft as a feather, and the most delicate thread of caramel. An utterly splendid nose. With water: veers into ultra-high-end aquavit territory. Those Danes, eh! (though to be clear, there's absolutely no suggestion that any aquavit was added!) Mouth (neat): a spell of pure cane juice, though with a hefty punch of alcohol that needs taming. A touch of mezcal, a lick of salt. With water: astonishing, just as medicinal as an ultra-medicinal Laphroaig, and just as oily and fat as a proper greasy Ben Nevis. What’s more, the woodruff returns. Finish: long, pure, elegant, and superbly herbal. Comments: extremely convincing. Slightly chilled, with caviar or oysters… yes please.
SGP:472 - 91 points. |
I fear that for the last rum of this little session, we’ll have no choice but... |
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Hampden 2020/2025 'HGML' (63.3%, OB, Awakening Series, Germany, bourbon, cask #277, 193 bottles)
The HGML marque clocks in at a hefty 1,000 to 1,300 grams of esters per HLPA. In other words, in any given line-up, few rums stand a chance once this beast shows up. Colour: full gold. Nose: brand-new trainers fresh out of the box, pickled gherkins, green olives from the Iberian peninsula, nail polish remover, and pineapple just on the turn, fermenting, but not quite rotten. You get the idea. In short, everything we love. With water: the green and black olives seize total control, and we’re entirely on board. Mouth: surprisingly gentle for such a marque, with citrus and a cool, minty liquorice that nonetheless grabs hold of your palate straight away. Fear not, the acetone and seawater follow swiftly. With water: stone fruits! Cherries, plums, apricots... though all seemingly preserved in brine. We really must try that, one day. Finish: very long, salty and liquorice-laden, but this time it leans more towards sweet than bitter. Comments: I’ve lost track of how many Hampdens we’ve tried—surely quite a few—but it never ceases to be an immense pleasure.
SGP:463 - 90 points. |
Hold on, we’ve still got a special weapon up our sleeve, just three letters: DOK... |
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Hampden 4 yo 2021/2025 'DOK' (60%, La Maison & Velier, Magnum Series #3)
A quick reminder that the ‘Magnum’ series isn’t about bottle size, it was launched in homage to the photographers of the Magnum agency. As for the DOK marque, or <DOK, this is Hampden’s ester behemoth, clocking in at a staggering 1,500 to 1,700 grams per HLPA, placing it somewhere between nitro-glycerine and TNT on the flavour detonation scale. And we’re only half-joking. Colour: white wine. Nose: pure nail varnish, hairspray, North Sea brine and cider vinegar. There’s a trace of quince eau-de-vie lurking in the background, that’s the civilised part. With water: pure carbon, fibreglass, topcoat and fresh faux leather. Mouth (neat): honestly, it feels like drinking seawater, if one were being deliberately crude, one might say “post-oil spill.” Shame on us. On the gentler and more peaceable side, there are hints of peach syrup. With water: salt, hessian, and lime. Finish: very long and razor-sharp, with an aggressively acidic lemon that takes full control and sends shivers right down your spine for a solid fifteen minutes. Comments: I’ve always wondered whether it’s entirely normal to enjoy these mad contraptions so much, or whether it’s time to seek professional help.
SGP:473 - 90 points. |
After a DOK, nothing else will do. Goodbye. Stay tuned. |
Check the index of all rums we've tasted |
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October 24, 2025 |
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The Time Warp Sessions,
today young Glen Grant
You’ll remember, the idea is to compare recent and older bottlings of malts of roughly the same age and, of course, from the same distillery. |
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Glen Grant 12 yo (75° proof, Moray Bonding Co, UK market, 1960s)
Angus already tasted this rare baby some years back, but we shan’t dwell on that. Moray Bonding held a licence to bottle Glen Grant, and while several 12-year-olds were issued for the Italian market labelled ‘43°’, this ‘75° proof’ version for the UK is much rarer. That said, 43 GL and 75 proof amount to the same thing... Colour: white wine. Nose: flawless purity, on almond oil, beeswax polish, and the faintest trace of smoky solvent. This is soon followed by glorious whiffs of mineral oil and even a nostalgic two-stroke petrol and oil mix, Kawasaki-style. A fabulous nose – and rather less perilous than those Kawasakis. Mouth: implausibly salty, mechanical, oily, fat, with just a few wrinkled apples from the fruit section. Still, it’s utterly wonderful, and if some once considered Glen Grant the undisputed king of Speyside in those days, it wasn’t without reason. Finish: long, splendidly fat and bitter, and comes across as rather stronger than its 75° proof suggests. Now bubbling broths of every kind also make an appearance. Comments: a monumental young whisky, and apologies to whatever follows next...
SGP:462 - 92 points. |
Oops, we're really being harsh here, and on top of that, we hadn't noticed the next one had been finished in rum casks... |
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Glen Grant 'Exploration No.1' (48%, OB, limited edition, rum cask finish, 2025)
This sort of finishing and the whole travel-themed concept is precisely the kind of ‘innovation’ (ahem) that every single distillery seems to be pursuing at the exact same time. Next up, tequila; then mizunara; and then tequila ex-mizunara. That said, we do appreciate the bottling strength – 48% is not bad at all. Colour: white wine. Nose: hold on, this is actually not bad at all! It would appear the rum used had a bit of character, perhaps something Jamaican, maybe Appleton, since both Glen Grant and Appleton are owned by Campari? Nicely oily, with phenolic touches, a whisper of olive oil, the faintest dab of (posh) shampoo, then ripe apples, which have become rather classic in younger contemporary Glen Grants, a far cry from their much bolder ancestors of the 1950s or 60s. All things considered, this is very decent indeed for a humble NAS. Mouth: same impression of a rum with a good ester count, even more vivid than on the nose. What’s more, the assemblage, right, or rather the finishing, seems to have been handled with care. But let’s be frank, the rum does overpower the malt, though since it was a very fine rum, there’s really no complaint here. Lovely notes of olives, hints of tar, and a nice saline touch. Finish: fairly long, salty, rather fat, and genuinely very good. Comments: a surprise indeed. Then again, the rum could also have been agricole, perhaps Trois Rivières or La Mauny, both now under the Campari umbrella these past three or four years.
SGP:652 - 85 points. |
Well, it's not been the bloodbath I was fearing after all! |
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October 23, 2025 |
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A new quintet of Pulteney |
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| Wick Harbour (Wick Harbour) |
Here we are, back in Wick, with this magnificent distillate carrying delightfully maritime aromas when overly active casks haven’t been used. Let’s take a look at what we’ve got on the table… |
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Old Pulteney 2006/2024 (51%, OB, exclusive to Germany, cask #2101, 204 bottles)
Colour: gold. Nose: it's very fresh, first and foremost on green apple and lemon, with soft vanilla humming quietly in the background and a light sheen of coconut—nothing excessive, so no unwelcome piña colada effect here. With water: the vanilla comes more to the fore now, alongside touches of fennel and a whisper of candle wax that points discreetly southward, toward a certain cousin on the east coast. You're right, that would be Clynelish. Mouth (neat): fresh oak makes quite the entrance, bringing along an herbal, slightly bitter side that would nod toward some of the more pugnacious IPAs. The green apple theme remains firmly in charge. With water: no real change, save for a few welcome salty flourishes. Finish: rather long, with green apple and coconut returning to the spotlight. Comments: very good, just a tad too much fresh oak for my personal liking.
SGP:561 - 84 points. |
Since we were in Germany and in 2006... |
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Old Pulteney 2006/202 (52.2%, OB, for Kirsch Import, cask #1454, 270 bottles)
Colour: pale gold. Nose: close to the previous one but a little softer, less dominated by oak, yet still wonderfully refreshing and again led by that slightly tart little apple. With water: creamier now, moving towards custard. Mouth (neat): a fine balance here between the distillate's natural acidity and a fairly fresh oakiness. There's a marked herbal side, but also a touch of honey peeking through. With water: it rounds out again this time, with lemon now joining the green apple in gentle harmony. Finish: quite long, mellow, fruitier, with oranges and a bit of passion fruit stepping in. Comments: a very charming simplicity.
SGP:551 - 85 points. |
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Old Pulteney 2006/2022 (53.4%, OB, for Kirsch Import, cask #740, 252 bottles)
Colour: pale gold. Nose: very close again, perhaps even softer still, leaning more towards custard and apple tart. With water: beautifully balanced, with some lemony flashes coming through. Mouth (neat): amusingly, while it’s rounder and gentler on the nose, it turns more herbal and tangier on the palate, almost as if it were a vatting of the previous two. With water: very good, fresh, tangy, with plenty of citrus joining the green apple and even a hint of rhubarb. Finish: quite long, fresh, fruity, all in simple charm. A fun peppery twist in the aftertaste. Comments: I like this one just a tiny bit more.
SGP:551 - 86 points. |
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Old Pulteney 11 yo 2013/2025 (53%, Decadent Drams, 1st fill bourbon barrel)
It looks like we can spot the landlord of the Fiddler’s Inn on the label. Colour: straw. Nose: this time we're closer to the maritime tension of the distillate itself, with the oak playing a lesser role. There’s green apple, green banana, a few touches of lovage and sorrel, then a dab of honey smoothing the whole affair out. Very fine—youthful, fresh, easy. With water: water brings it nearer to the officials, though the lovage still holds its ground, along with a few unexpectedly waxy notes. Mouth (neat): same markers, but this one's livelier than the rather lovely OBs, less influenced by American oak, and more led by lime and even a drop of olive brine. With water: much the same again, though this time with a dash of orange cream. And yes, the lovage remains! Finish: fairly long, extending the palate with matching notes. Comments: in truth, we’re very close to the previous official.
SGP:551 - 87 points. |
Let’s finish with a much older official release... |
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Old Pulteney 38 yo (49.8%, OB, China exclusive, Spanish oak oloroso sherry-seasoned butt, 630 bottles, +/-2025)
Not far off €6,000 a bottle in travel retail in Hong Kong, not bad! This baby spent most of its life in American oak before being reracked into sherry. Colour: dark red amber. Nose: praline and raspberry ganache all along, joined by prunes and dates, with a few drops of hoisin sauce (but of course) and an umami edge that only grows with time, though the whole remains soft and quite jammy, almost like a very old PX. Gentle notes of petrol and tar in the background only make it more complex. Tarry ropes, camphor... in fact it just keeps gaining in complexity minute after minute, to the point where it turns... maritime! Mouth: fairly punchy, with a beautiful bitterness to start (dark tobacco, dried seaweed), then it becomes more and more tertiary, with touches of furniture polish, old walnuts, more tobacco again and a slew of maritime, salty, fermentary touches. A few tiny drops of fish sauce and some beef broth too. Finish: not eternal, but that’s to be expected. The salinity comes even more to the fore, as do the tobacco, chocolate and prunes, along with a bit of biltong. Comments: we were slightly apprehensive at the start, but air and time brought everything together again, delivering a magnificent old Pulteney that even some very assertive casks couldn’t quite steer away from its coastal DNA.
SGP:562 - 91 points. |
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October 22, 2025 |
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A new small trio from Port Ellen, with a 9 years old and the new 200th Anniversary |
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The Port Ellen staff in 1975, with none other than Iain MacArthur right in
the middle, who later moved on to Lagavulin. (Diageo) |
It's always a tremendous pleasure to taste Port Ellen, especially as we've yet to come across one that's gone totally off course, even after... wait a moment, it's been over 42 years since the distillery, in its former incarnation, was closed! In any case, aside from Diageo’s new releases, there are still some older expressions we’ve never officially reviewed on WF. We’ll start with those, before moving on to the official bottling just released for the distillery’s 200th anniversary. All of this, of course, as we await the arrival of the first young malts from Port Ellen 3.0... |
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Port Ellen 1979/1988 (65.3%, Scotch Malt Whisky Society, #43.2)
One of, if not the very youngest Port Ellen ever bottled, even younger than those splendid 10yos from Signatory Vintage, including the rather razor-edged Scottish Wildlife at 40% vol. Imagine that, this one’s but nine years of age! Now hyper-rare of course, and probably one of the truest illustrations of the distillate as it originally was. Colour: straw. Nose: we’re smack between artists’ varnish, dragster fuel spiked with a touch of nitro-glycerine, three dozen oysters, and cask-strength Mercurochrome (really). The worst part? It’s staggeringly glorious, and we’re as certain as 1+1=2 that this bottle has benefited from a superlative OBE throughout its thirty-five-plus years in glass. Almost forgot to mention the infamous tar, which is consubstantial with any self-respecting Port Ellen, bordering on fusel oil. With water: wet soils and mandarins, how does that sound? But also all the industrial oils one could possibly imagine, including the used motor oil from an old Harley after thirty thousand kilometres. Mouth (neat): assertive and, above all, incredibly sweet, nearly soft as cane syrup. One would assume that’s the effect of the extremely high strength, and that a few drops of water will set the cavalry loose. With water: indeed, though the sweetness remains, now on citrus liqueurs, with a peat that’s almost discreet, perhaps mellowed much like those old Bowmores or Laphroaigs from the 1960s. You see, smoky flavours are more delicate than we often believe. That said, chew the whisky a little and you’ll rediscover tar, paraffin, rubber, and smoked salmon cured in coarse sea salt. At any rate, there’s nothing aggressive about the whole. Finish: long and magnificent, perfectly balanced, a true ode to cellar ageing, akin to what one might encounter when stumbling upon a bottle of vodka forgotten for fifty years or more. A faint touch of strawberry on the aftertaste, typical! Comments: a beauty some might call unfathomable but I must insist, bottle ageing has surely played a role in this outcome. It has!
SGP:556 - 93 points. |
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Port Ellen 23 yo 1978/2002 (60.9%, Signatory Vintage, sherry, cask #5265, 464 bottles)
How many marvels from this ‘dumpy’ series have we already tasted, across all distilleries? Not necessarily Port Ellens, mind you... Colour: apricot. Nose: frankly, this is Jamaican rum in disguise as Scotch whisky. I kid you not. That sensation (olives, acetone, molasses) doesn’t last forever, mind, as the peat soon comes roaring in, thunderous and all-conquering, bursting with pipe tobacco, diesel fuel and tar. It’s rather glorious, to be perfectly honest, even though its siblings or sister casks were rather middling when we tried them upon release. So once again, it’s as if young or middle-aged Port Ellen needs some proper bottle ageing before it can fully reveal itself. Mysterious, isn’t it. With water: superb dry sherry, as if we’d poured a double amontillado into the glass. Mouth (neat): it grabs your tongue and refuses to let go. Mustard, molasses, seawater, salted liquorice, Nescafé. What a mix! With water: the return of bitter oranges, seawater, whelks, oysters, leather and tobacco, not forgetting that mustard again. Finish: very long and even saltier, oily, thick, mustardy and peppery, it’s as though the sherry’s trying to maintain control. Comments: this isn’t a whisky, it’s an adventure, somewhere between Jerez and Islay. Which, according to a friendly AI, corresponds roughly to the latitude of La Rochelle but out at sea, some 200 kilometres off the French coast. Still quite a way from... cognac.
SGP:567 - 91 points. |
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Port Ellen 42 yo 1983/2025 (56.4%, OB, 200th Anniversary, 150 bottles)
Don't we love 1) the fact that they chose a 1983, the final vintage before the closure, to mark the 200th anniversary—not the worst year by any means, especially if one remembers the 15th Release 1983/2015, and 2) the fact that they stuck with the classic official bottling, without going all out with some outlandish crystal decanter and a famous sculptor/designer nobody’s ever really heard of outside Mayfair or Notting Hill. And 3), that they didn’t fudge the founding date like so many others have done, as according to reliable sources, Port Ellen was indeed opened in 1824 (or was it 1825?) by Alexander Mackay, making it quite rightly two hundred years ago. Right then, shall we try this little gem?... Colour: amber. Nose: now we’re in another realm entirely, a universe where flavours and textures converge, where earthly concerns are forgotten, where new molecules are born and... wait, here they come, burgers on the barbecue lavishly doused in peated whisky, graphite, charcoal, fresh tar, but also citrons and lemons, fresh paint, new wool, wet cement, artichokes, white balsamic, olives (tonnes of olives)... Let’s stop there, it’s all too magnificent. With water: absolutely no change, it doesn’t budge an inch. Mouth (neat): a masterstroke, of unfathomable, salty, and transcendent beauty, packed with olives and all things smoky, phenolic and saline. With water: a procession of tiny citrus fruits arrives, most of them pickled. Finish: utterly majestic but immediately distilling a huge wave of nostalgia, like when you finally eat the tiny bit of black truffle tucked into the centre of a proper Alsatian-style truffled foie gras. Comments: it reminds me a little of the official Brora 40 yo 1972, except that one came in a crystal decanter weighing about two tonnes, as we were reminded during a ‘masterclass’ (right, right) we ran in London at this year’s Whisky Show, where that legendary bottle made an appearance thanks to the fearless organisers. In any case, this Port Ellen is a mad bottle, an apex of malt whisky. We’ve tasted quite a few whiskies at this level, but not ones released recently, or so it seems to me. Possibly the bottle of the year 2025? But you’re right, the year isn’t over yet...
SGP:466 - 95 points.
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(Thank you, Bora and Jon) |
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October 21, 2025 |
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Ten Blair Athol at full gallop
Blair Athol is much more than just the last petrol station (so to speak) before Edradour, there have already been a fair few truly historic bottles. |
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And if you've never tried an old 8-year-old with the black label from the Arthur Bell era, do so as soon as you can; they still come up at auction now and then. Let’s not forget that Blair Athol was, for a brief time, part of the famous Classic Malts of Scotland… granted, it was very short-lived. Right then, let’s go about things a bit randomly today, but we’ll try to keep a certain logic to it... |
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Blair Athol 12 yo (80°proof, OB, Pure Malt, +/-1975)
This isn’t the black label one, rather the blue label that came just after. There was also a crimson-labelled Dufftown in the same vein. Colour: white wine. Nose: full-on barley with a dash of engine oil and paraffin for good measure. One almost feels transported to a field just as the combine harvester has rumbled through, its engine not exactly purring, mind you. It’s utterly charming. Mouth: similar impressions carry through, though we’re now veering into overripe apple territory, beyond the barley syrup and a whisper of lightly sweetened tea. Immensely malty, quite beer-like on the whole, not tremendously complex, and certainly without the dazzling fruitiness found in 1960s vintages. Still, rather good. Finish: medium in length, on apples and malt. Comments: this is very, very pleasant indeed, though all told just a tad on the simple side—think… Bell’s.
SGP:541 - 83 points. |
Speaking of bottlings from the 1960s, let’s move from theory to practice... |
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Blair Athol 8 yo (80° proof, OB, Highland Malt, UK market, early 1960s)
Colour: gold. Nose: nothing much to do with the 12-year-old, this is far oilier and more phenolic, with hints of smoke, greasiness, earth and wax, along with floor polish and paraffin, and some rather surprising notes of fresh mango to round things off beautifully. A stunning nose. Mouth: superb, citrus takes the lead from the outset, soon giving way to a mad gallop of earthy and oily flavours—olive oil, sesame, a touch of metal polish and boot wax, and a splash of old-school cough syrup with a serious alcohol kick (the sort that had you back on your feet in no time). And then, the mangos return, though in rather more discreet quantity. Finish: fairly long, just a hint metallic and faintly peaty, yet gloriously waxy and citrusy to the last. Comments: sheer beauty! Between us, I might well have guessed an old young Springbank had I tasted it blind.
SGP:562 - 92 points. |
Right, that’s enough of the old relics... |
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Blair Athol 15 yo 2009/2025 (46%, Royal Mile Whiskies, small batch, French oak, 633 bottles)
Careful now, French oak often means wine casks, let’s see… Colour: ripe apricot. Bingo. Nose: there’s definite wine influence here, with strawberry-raspberry jam, even a touch of wild strawberry liqueur, blood orange, and a good deal of rosehip tisane. The malty, slightly waxy backbone holds it together rather well, let’s be honest. Mouth: no doubt about it, winesky territory, and one could easily picture this in a spritz atop a mountain of ice cubes by the poolside at forty degrees in the shade. Prosecco already included, how convenient. Joking aside, it’s actually rather nice. Finish: long, fairly soft, with a touch of grey pepper and some red berries keeping it lively. Comments: malt whisky 3.0. Let’s not be stick-in-the-mud traditionalists, this is very nicely done.
SGP:641 - 82 points. |
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Blair Athol 12 yo 2013/2025 (51.6%, Tri Carragh, 1st fill Port barrique, 174 bottles)
The reracking (quite right) took place in 2024. One might expect another red fruit explosion… Colour: gold. Nose: far less vinous than the previous one, though that may well be down to the higher strength, let’s not leap to conclusions, even if the hue is indeed less ruby-ish. Raisin buns, honey... With water: even more raisin rolls and honey. And let’s face it, raisin rolls are one of civilisation’s finer creations (aren’t they?) Mouth (neat): lovely! Caramel, fudge, pepper, cardamom, cinnamon, candied cherries... The caramel stands out particularly and leans rather heavily towards crème brûlée. With water: perhaps just a touch more grapey now, with hints of stalkiness not usually found in Port, though maybe best not to add water here. Finish: medium length, more charming without dilution. Comments: water swept away the raisin rolls. Still, no matter, this remains an excellent Blair Athol.
SGP:551 - 84 points. |
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Blair Athol 16 yo 2007/2024 (55.1%, The Whisky Exchange, Seasons: Winter, oloroso sherry)
Gorgeous label, let’s hope we find those mushrooms on the nose… though too much mushroom in a wine or spirit can tip into flaw territory. Colour: reddish amber. Nose: quite a bit of red fruit for an oloroso, and there’s clearly some PXness in the mix too. That said, it all comes together rather perfectly, classic, rounded, fruity, full of figs, walnut wine, and ta-dah, Mars bars. Certainly not a particularly dry oloroso. With water: marzipan soaked in kirsch. We do love that, brings out our Teutonic side. Mouth (neat): surprisingly jammy for an oloroso, more reminiscent of cream sherry in fact, especially as the sherry impact is utterly massive here. But that jamminess is lovely, bolstered by a good dose of pepper. With water: again with the almond paste and cherry liqueur, plus that distinct ‘cream’ character. You might call it oloroso dulce, but there’s a hint of Guinness in there as well... Finish: long, a touch less polished, more rustic in style. Comments: I feel this oloroso was slightly searching for itself, but all in, it’s still a thoroughly excellent maltsherry.
SGP:651 - 84 points. |
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Blair Athol 13 yo 2009/2023 (51.7%, Whisky Picnic Bar and T.S.M.C., hogshead, 282 bottles)
Colour: gold. Nose: back to base camp, barley, sunflower oil, soft vanilla and very ripe apples. You’ve no idea how much joy this sort of thing brings. With water: all clean lines, chalk, grist, oils, cider... Mouth (neat): magnificent, with bitter almonds, Seville oranges, pine honey, green tea… glory be to natural hogsheads! With water: even better, now with touches of mint and a dash of absinthe. Finish: fairly long, rather refreshing, and that’s precisely the danger with this kind of malt. They really ought to slap on a label reading “not to be used to quench thirst”. Comments: truth be told, it’s probably not the most complex malt whisky out there, but the balance and authenticity are simply spot-on.
SGP:451 - 87 points. |
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Blair Athol 12 yo 2009/2021 (58%, Timeless & Tasty, Whiskies & More 7th Anniversary, bourbon hogshead)
‘The label showcases the vibrancy and charisma of Hong Kong’s women’, or so it claims. Colour: pale white wine—hurrah. Nose: we’re even closer to the distillate now and having sampled the new make on-site in Pitlochry myself, I can vouch for it. Fresh brioche, biscuits, panettone, caramel fudge, oatcakes and just a wisp of the gentlest honey, think acacia. With water: a little more pear now, a sure sign of youth. And remember, youth is the future (how smart, S.). Mouth (neat): magnificent young malt, very fresh, very fruity—apples, pears, lemons and plums—with an even higher danger coefficient than the previous dram. With water: but this is glorious! Honeyed cider with a touch of vanilla and a few drops of Californian IPA, something like old-school Lagunitas from fifteen years ago. Finish: fairly long, with splendid bitterness. Comments: this whisky was clearly chosen by an aesthete. I’ve no idea who that was, but they deserve the platinum medal of Whiskyfun—if such a thing existed, of course.
SGP:651 - 88 points. |
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Blair Athol 11 yo 2014/2025 (59.2%, Berry Bros. & Rudd, for LMDW, hogshead, cask #308672, 277 bottles)
This one's really brand new. Colour: full gold. Nose: this is amusing, there’s a very Germanic currywurst note to start with, laced with floral touches of lily, hibiscus and jasmine… What on earth? With water: back to cakes, barley, limestone and sourdough. Mouth (neat): compact and efficient, sweet and spicy, almost like an entire tin of Basler Läckerli. And if you don’t know Basler Läckerli, that’s your problem, not mine (S., please!...) With water: the water blows open the exotic fruit, banana, plantain, and a beautifully soft ginger. Finish: rather long, honeyed, coated, sweet but indeed quite spicy too, with plenty of ginger and even a dusting of dried porcini powder, Italian-style. Comments: a young, rich, marvellously syrupy version, highly recommended.
SGP:561 - 86 points. |
... how about we taste a very old Blair Athol?... |
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Blair Athol 38 yo 1986/2025 (51.5%, One8Nine, 1st fill oloroso sherry hogshead, cask #20078, 122 bottles)
It doesn’t seem I’ve ever come across such an old Blair Athol before, have you? The price strikes me as very reasonable, what's more... That said, one always feels a degree of trepidation before approaching such an old malt, has it weathered the years with dignity? Let’s find out promptly... Colour: mahogany. Nose: exactly what we'd been hoping for, extremely old umeshu mingling with a medley of ancient waxes, antique books, prunes and tamarinds, cigars, hoisin sauce, lovage, chestnut honey and... some venerable armagnac and very old agricole rum. Never has the old adage—that all the world’s ancient spirits eventually converge—rung truer. Splendid. With water: old wood dust and crumbled masonry, then dazzling echoes of jamon iberico—say, 9,582,437 belottas, if that were a valid rating. Mouth (neat): a rather surprising profile on the palate, opening on propolis by the ladleful, then pine resin, pepper, bitter orange, and above all, black truffle. Mind you, we are not speaking of sulphur here, this is pure black truffle. With water: the addition brings out oaky and fir honeydews. Finish: long, with the arrival of mint chocolate, as fashioned by a proper artisan chocolatier in Perthshire—or anywhere, really. Tamarind jam, black propolis and fir resin seal the whole affair. Comments: this is not one of those old malts trying to appear young like a fading Hollywood actress attempting a comeback—on the contrary, it wears its years proudly, and that is precisely what gives it its towering charm.
SGP:581 - 93 points. |
I think we need one last very young BA to cleanse the palate before moving on to other topics on WF… Well, you know what I mean. |
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Blair Athol 9 yo 2014/2024 '100 proof Edition #9' (57.1%, Signatory Vintage, Kirsch Import, 1st fill oloroso butt)
Colour: mahogany. Nose: it gives precisely the impression that, had this whisky aged on to the venerable age of 38, it might’ve ended up alarmingly close to that sublime 1986 we’ve just tasted. Do with that what you will... With water: stout, toffee, and chocolate fudge galore. At the end of the day, it’s still a young malt. Mouth (neat): monstrously coherent in its earthy, resinous profile. Bitter orange lifts everything nicely and, believe it or not, almost makes it feel fresh. With water: much the same again, just maltier and a touch softer. Barely. Finish: long and even more chocolate-forward, with just the faintest dusting of pepper. Comments: a lovely bottle, you simply have to like chocolate. Perhaps a slice of chocolate cake, then…
SGP:461 - 86 points. |
Right, ten is enough. There’ll be more Blair Athol soon, but for now, we’re officially calling it a day. I’ll just add that it’s a real shame the vast majority of available BAs are independents, with official bottlings practically non-existent, Òunless you count the very old releases from the ’60s and ’70s. That’s over 50 years ago, after all... You’re quite right, and then there’s the Flora & Fauna version... |
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October 20, 2025 |
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WF's Little Duos, today indie Royal Brackla
We want more natural Brackla! Even if the base malt doesn’t exactly burst with personality, despite its inherent royalty… That said, as usual, if you really want to get closer to the distillate, you’ve got to turn to the (good) indies. It’s a mad world. |
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Royal Brackla 13 yo 2011/2024 (48.5%, Thompson Bros., refill butt, 727 bottles)
Colour: white wine. Nose: oily nose, on peanut oil, sesame oil, then hay and salted butter caramel. And really, who could object to any of that? Mouth: a full transposition of the nose onto the palate, though a little rougher, more rustic. Almond croissant, hay wine, white pepper, coriander seed, Dutch genever... Finish: long, drier still, even more on the genever. Comments: absolutely lovely, far from a ‘standard’ Scottish malt, much closer to a northern European genever. In short, it’s intriguing, exactly what one also hopes for from an independent bottler, actually.
SGP:361 - 87 points. |
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Royal Brackla 11 yo 2013/2024 (53.6%, Fable Whisky, Hesperus, hogshead, cask 301779, 314 bottles)
These labels remain absolutely sublime, and I mean it. Colour: pale gold. Nose: a bit like the same whisky, only more austere, more Jansenist, but also more herbal—fennel, dill... With water: back to beer, wash, bread dough... Mouth (neat): same profile as the admirable Thompson Bros. edition. Pepper, bitter almond, juniper, coriander, candied lemon... With water: a little less oomph now, makes one wonder whether the water was really needed. It turns slightly drying but still remains very excellent. Finish: rather long, wilder, more peppery, though ultimately more honeyed. Comments: very, very good, just a touch more unruly.
SGP:451 - 86 points. |
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