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October 12, 2024 |
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Angus's Corner
From our correspondent and skilled taster Angus MacRaild in Scotland |
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More closed distilleries
After last week’s Glen Mhor session, I felt suitably motivated to continue to revisit some of these lost names. I had planned to include a Port Ellen and some Brora, but then realised they no longer qualify as ‘closed’ - technically speaking. Although, as I've argued on occasion, most distilleries are 'closed' if you go back far enough due to accumulated changes to equipment and process. For example, see the upcoming plans that Diageo have for Talisker... |
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Are we going to be discussing Talisker in the future in the same way we reference Caol Ila pre and post 1974? Or will the change be so dramatic that Talisker as we know it is essentially going to become a 'lost' distillery. I feel as though we might be entering the realm of the philosophical. |
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Convalmore 1975/2015 (46%, Gordon & MacPhail ‘Rare Old’, cask #R0/15/06, refill sherry hogshead, 299 bottles) 
Colour: gold. Nose: wooft! Pure heather honey, resinous fir wood, a coconut-drenched pina colada, mineral oils, wormwood, immense waxes and camphor vibes, verbena and wonderful notes of fennel, tarragon and honeycomb. Stunning nose! Mouth: this quality that I always adore that makes me think of very old mead, or some kind of crystallised or salted honey. It has this in spades, along with more deeply herbal and medicinal combinations that go towards very old yellow Chartreuse and cough syrups. Then waxiness and superbly fat textural elements that carry all these flavours brilliantly. Finish: good length, back on resins, fir wood, pinecones, tarragon, camphor and beeswax. Comments: one of these older highland styles that shows sublimely at this kind of age when just left to its own devices in simple, lighter touch wood.
SGP: 552 - 90 points. |
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Lochside 20 yo 1981/2001 (61.0%, Scotch Malt Whisky Society 92.10 ‘Cod-liver oil and blackcurrants’)
Colour: bright straw. Nose: very citrus and grass driven, with vivid notes of crushed nettles, finger limes, Viognier, putty, lemon barley water, grapefruit and also some clean cereal and mineral oil notes. Very pure and fresh, I love it. With water: wonderfully on green herbs, citrus fruits and mineral qualities. Aged Riesling and Chenin Blanc, clay, putty, petrol and buttered white toast. Extremely precise and beautifully tense. Mouth: rather tight, punchy and petrolic, with lots of clay, aniseed, fresh muddled herbs, lime peel, wormwood and a drying waxiness. Tough but brilliant distillate. With water: really explodes with water! Geraniums, vase water, lime curd, jasmine flower, exotic fruit teas, limestone, waxed canvass, bergamot oil and a few drops of very old Benedictine. A truly specific and unusual profile that’s all to do with power, precision and this very wonderful green / fresh / citric / mineral quartet. I’m sure Serge would call this a ‘wine drinkers malt’. Finish: long, tense, nervous, quivering green acidity, white flowers, underripe gooseberry, petrol and tarragon. Comments: sitting somewhere between St Magdalene and… Lochside, of course. Amazing and unique distillate that could keep you, a pipette and a bottle of water, entertained for hours.
SGP: 661 - 91 points. |
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Glenugie 33 yo 1966/2000 (48.1%, Signatory Vintage ‘Silent Stills’, cask #5081, 148 bottles)
Colour: straw. Nose: shoe polish and mashed exotic fruits. Then pink grapefruit more specifically, a tiny hint of seawater and huge notes of lime and waxed citrus rinds. Extremely zesty, fresh and with these sharp and grassy notes of rapeseed oil and parsley. Typically exuberant and bewilderingly fruity old Glenugie. Mouth: a little closed up front on arrival, some funny notes of mocha coffee, cocoa, ales and breads. Then more exotic hoppy IPA vibes, and then a huge burst of tropical fruits of all type and style. Total and utterly deadly fruit juice at this strength. Rather simple in some ways, but I find that rather an asset here. Finish: medium in length but gloriously fruity, more shoe polish fatness, leathery notes, seawater and grapefruit again and these nicely waxy and gentle peppery notes. Comments: I would say that this would probably have been totally sublime if bottled a few years younger, feels like it was caught just as it was coming over the hill. That said, the sheer fruitiness of it and especially that tropical flashbomb on the swallow were giddiness-inducing and hugely fun. Another totally wonderful old Glenugie.
SGP: 751 - 91 points. |
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Glenugie 1966/1986 (55%, Samaroli, 480 bottles) 
I’ve tried this one a few times before and always been impressed. However, Serge recorded notes for this way back in 2006 and it only clocked in at WF88 at that time, while plenty other folk have scored it much higher over the years. Let’s revisit again, with an open mind… Colour: gold. Nose: clear shared DNA with the Signatory bottling, but this one also immediately reminds me of Lochside with this very particular grassy and exotic combination. Exotic fruit pulp, passionfruit, herbal and fruit teas and subtle impressions of verbena and a mix of mechanical and cooking oils. I still feel that this is an excellent whisky with a highly distinctive profile. With water: becomes greener, leaner and grassier. Some green pepper, snapped twigs, moss, nettle, lime zest and very sharp, almost trebly exotic notes. Mouth: cooking oils, waxes, marmalade, metal polish, suet, flower honey and mead. That’s just to begin, it has impressive complexity, but it seems to develop away from the exotic fruitiness on the nose, more towards these cooking oil qualities, preserved citrus fruits, beers, waxes, clay, mineral oil, some tiger balm - very big whisky, but maybe the issue is it can be a little all over the place, lacking coherence perhaps? With water: some of the same grassy, green, sharpness of the nose comes through - gooseberry, lime, nettle etc - but it’s still a rather punchy, peppery, waxy and slightly austere profile. Finish: long, drying, well-chiselled brittle waxy notes, along with further impressions of old-style ales, breads, camphor and slightly medicinal herbal qualities. Comments: I suspect this is one of those whiskies which will always divide opinion. Tasted in certain lights I can easily see how it might dazzle, but tasted in at my desk on a quiet Fife afternoon, I find myself more in alignment with Serge back in 2006. It’s very impressive and captivating whisky, but I feel it perhaps lacks a bit of direction, and in that sense isn’t technically brilliant. There are certainly many other Samaroli bottlings of similar pedigree which show much more immediate and unequivocal beauty. Now, it’s entirely possible I would have tried it in the past and given a different verdict depending on the conditions… so, as always, please take my silly score with a pinch of salt.
SGP: 662 - 89 points. |
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Glenlochy 29 yo 1970/2000 (57.2%, Signatory Vintage ‘Silent Stills’, cask #3359, 248 bottles)
A rare bottling for the USA. Colour: pale gold. Nose: the more Glenlochys I try, the more I feel it is something like the Clynelish of the West. This wonderful waxiness and distillate-derived fatness that feels also mechanical, slightly animalistic and highly mineral is like Clynelish speaking with a west highland accent to my palate. There’s also lovely fresh hints of grass and crushed green herbs along with a little punchy olive oil. With water: more clay, sheep wool oils and an impression of porridge laced with sea salt and honey. What I love most is the potency of the distillate which is still almost entirely what this whisky is about even at 29 years old. Mouth: big, chewy, superbly waxy, mineral and oily with a lot of yellow flowers, salted honey, crushed flower stems, vase water, clay, ointments, putty and tea tree oil. Treads that lovely line between mechanical and rustic with this mineral and waxy profile that brings in medical stuff, garages and toolbox vibes along with it. With water: retains this wonderful fatness and richness in the mouth. Honey mixed with olive oil with a tang of seawater and filtered through sheep wool. I’d also add more clay, ink and shoe polish into the mix. Finish: good length, with a little white stone and exotic fruit hints in the aftertaste, more medicine and cooking oils too. Comments: it’s also a whisky that makes me think of older Oban bottlings too, in the sense that this is powerful, hugely characterful but rather challenging west highland style malt whisky - a profile that’s extremely scarce these days. But we shouldn’t get too hung up on comparing this to other distilleries. Glenlochy is, or sadly rather was, Glenlochy, and it remains one of the distilleries whose loss was a greater shame than most in my view. Another wonderful example.
SGP: 472 - 92 points. |
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Dallas Dhu 43 yo 1979/2023 (54.1%, Gordon & MacPhail ‘Private Collection’, cask #1404, refill hogshead, 155 bottles)
I think we can still count Dallas Dhu as ‘closed’ for the time being, despite chatter about its imminent return. Colour: deep gold. Nose: we’re in familiar ‘honeyed’ territory of these old, older style, malts. Only here it is even more narrowly focused and precisely on beeswax, pine wood, linseed furniture oil, burlap sack, cough syrup and tiny inflections of desiccated coconut, gorse flower and mead. It’s beautiful, but gives the impression of being ever so slightly closed. With water: gets nicely sappy, mentholated and displays some lovely, softer notes of sandalwood, beeswax, camphor and even touches of very old Demerara rum. Mouth: one of those whiskies where you feel it has been captured on something of a knife edge, the wood is very present, but it’s full of superb resinous and spice qualities that add to the depth of flavour and don’t just come through as dryness and tannin. Lots of exotic and various herbal teas and infusions, dried mint, eucalyptus, more cough medicine vibes, specifically darjeeling tea now, and then some nice floral touches with pressed wildflowers and dusty pollens. With water: becomes a little too astringent and woody now I would say. The flavours remain pretty marvellous, but it develops towards a very peppery and slightly tannic profile with more teaish vibes and a touch of bitterness. Finish: long, back on honeys, camphor, strong herbal teas, waxes and warming peppery notes. Comments: wonderful old whisky in many senses, and very entertaining development from nose to palate if you have a little water to hand. However, it’s hard not to feel it would have been even more luminous if bottled a few years earlier.
SGP: 561 - 89 points. |
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Let’s wrap up with a sort of ‘additional sequel’ to last week’s Glen Mhor post and try two Glen Albyn. It’s a malt about which I have similar feelings to Glen Mhor, in that it could be great, but rather monolithic, austere and tough - especially from the 1970s up until closure. With that in mind, we’ll go forwards in time… |
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Glen Albyn 20 yo 1962/1983 (92 US proof, Cadenhead Dumpy)
Colour: pale amber. Nose: Ha! It’s what I can only describe as a 50/50 combination of ‘old Cadenhead Dumpy’ profile + pre-war malt whisky profile. Which means, lots of metal polish, huge waxes, soot, camphor and oiliness from the former, plus an almost herbal liqueurish, medicinal, earthy and dry, soft peaty quality from the latter. Add into the mix some very old-style sherry influence with this pure, perfectly drying, earthy and ruggedly salty aroma that recalls excellent VORS Oloroso. So far, I really like it. Mouth: it seems to alight exactly where it should be: late 50s/early 60s, old style highland malt from a sherry cask! Big, fat, oily-textured malt whisky full of waxes, animalistic edges, mineral oils, bone marrow, huge umami and savoury notes of mushroom powder, bouillon, Maggi and soy sauce, then more metal polish, dried herbs, aniseed, curious old ointments and deeply earthy and mulchy notes that incorporate some very fine tobaccos and humidor vibes. This restless saltiness remains very present. Finish: long, warming, peppery, with these deeper earthy notes brining dryness, more herbal liqueur qualities, more stock, marrow, camphor and wax. Comments: totally old school! A whisky to demonstrate to anyone still in doubt, that the broad characters of Scottish malt whisky have changed rather a lot over the past fifty or so years. Plenty of these old Cadenhead Dumpies are of variable quality these days, and certainly there are some old Cadenhead Glen Albyns of similar pedigree which are a bit all over the place, but this one is fits very well into that category of rugged, powerful, deeply characterful old style highland malt whisky that I unashamedly adore.
SGP: 473 - 91 points. |
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Glen Albyn 1975 (59.1%, Cadenhead for Oddbins, cask #3344, bottled early 1990s)
A famous series that was done for Oddbins (where I worked around 2007) and which contained some out of this work selections, but also a few rather less likely picks as well. Colour: pale gold. Nose: ruggedly salty and fat distillate-driven old school whisky. Loads of tertiary waxy and mineral notes, hugely petrolic, with notes of peppery watercress, fennel seed, honey roast parsnips, crushed aspirin and metal polish. It has this monolithic and austere side, but it also has something ‘extra’ that just elevates everything in terms of depth and power. Very impressive so far! With water: superbly peppery and oily, more camphor, sunflower oil, further notes of watercress, suet, bouillon and mineral qualities like coal and beach pebbles. Mouth: oh wow, farmyard, coal dust, lightly peated Brora (can that be a tasting note?), wood ashes, sheep wool, bike chain oil, hessian toolbox rags - one of those whiskies that seems to only make you think of flavours and things you shouldn’t really put in your mouth. Very sooty, very oily, very fatty, very peppery and very waxy. There’s also a persistent salinity about it which brings freshness and power. With water: bone dry, stunningly peppery, oily and fat, with a brittle, sharp waxiness running throughout. Another one of these old school malts that recalls top class, aged, dry white wines. Finish: very long, still on peppery and dry waxy qualities, but adding in some traces of dried out, crystallised old honey, ink, shoe polish, more sooty vibes and more sheep wool. Comments: a total beast! Really in keeping with the theme of this old white label series, which seems to have been ‘massive fucking whiskies’. Anyway, this clearly demonstrates that old Invernesian ‘toughness’ while also being a terrific old school highlander at the same time. Now, you probably need to set aside about two hours to properly grapple with one dram of this…
SGP: 372 - 91 points. |
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Big thanks to Phil T and to KC! |
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October 11, 2024 |
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WF’s Little Duos, today Braeval ex-sherry |
Pernod-Ricard's Braeval, formerly Braes of Glenlivet, built in 1973 by Seagram, is not the prettiest distillery ever, but all those built in the 1970s were architecturally quite poor. The Boney Ms of distilleries. That said, the whiskies can be excellent – as you’ll tell me, all malts can be – especially those matured in good sherry casks. |
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Braeval 13 yo 2009/2022 (55%, North Star Spirits, sherry butts, 341 bottles) 
Colour: gold. Nose: right off the bat, there’s a whiff of metal polish and copper (pennies), along with Fanta, geranium and tomato leaves, then walnut skins and a hint of rosehip tea. Cranberries as well. Not the easiest Speysider so far, but some intriguing facets. With water: much improved, showing a lovely earthy side, dunnage, and an old PX cask vibe... Mouth (neat): rather intense, peppery and metallic, with those Fanta notes again, then bay leaves and capers. With water: again, it gets earthier. Oranges and mushrooms, honeyed pecans, but still that metallic, peppery character which gives it a bit of a rustic feel. Finish: fairly long, now leaning more towards liquorice, mint, and caramel. That’s quite nice. A bitter aftertaste lingers. Comments: a feisty little creature in your glass.
SGP:361 - 80 points. |
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Braeval 23 yo 2000/2023 (57.9%, Whisky Age, sherry puncheon, cask #15631, 438 bottles) 
These new Whisky Age labels from Taiwan are quite fun, with cats designed by artist Zhi Zhi making an appearance. Colour: gold. Nose: reminiscent of the North Star, slightly metallic and earthy, but with real oranges rather than Fanta, and a touch of pink pepper. There's also a whiff of walnut liqueur. As charming as Zhi Zhi's cats, at least for now. With water: milk chocolate infused with orange zest emerges beautifully. Mouth (neat): a lively sherry, quite peppery and almost sharp, with surprising notes of leek fondue and marrow dumplings. Some black nougat in the background too. With water: the nougat takes centre stage while the spices recede, turning the whole experience into something rather excellent. Roasted hazelnuts, chestnut honey, gianduja, toasted sesame, triple sec – all very, very good. Finish: long, mostly on chocolate and orange zest, with a hint of cinchona and walnut lingering in the aftertaste. Comments: best to keep some water handy for whiskies like this, as they can be a bit particular. Excellent stuff, but H2O is essential.
SGP: 551 – 87 points. |
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October 10, 2024 |
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A new little 'Japan Special' session
(Or more of the best of the best of Japanese whisky) |
We had a great time with the new Yamazakis last time; for us, it was almost like a resurrection after a period dominated by soulless yet pricey NAS whiskies. In any case, today we're moving on to other distilleries, making sure to taste only 100% Japanese whisky, of course. Yeah, right... |
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The Nikka ‘Nine Decades’ (48%, OB, 90th Anniversary Limited, premium blended whisky, 2024) 
Well, this prestigious blend does set things off on the right foot, though it isn't entirely Japanese, as it contains Ben Nevis in addition to Yoichi, Miyagikyo, and a few other lesser-known distilleries. But, given that Ben Nevis is owned by Nikka and we're rather fond of Ben Nevis, there's no disappointment here. Rumour has it that the oldest component dates back to the 1940s (Yoichi 1945), meaning that the youngest would be from the 2020s (nine decades, see?). So, technically, it’s a very young whisky. But as always, it’s all about proportion and balance, isn't it? Colour: deep gold. Nose: well, they’ve inadvertently bottled a concoction of grand dark honeys—chestnut, heather, manuka, fir—enhanced with just a dash of maple syrup, fine molasses, and pine bud liqueur. Add to that beeswax, furniture polish, chestnut cream, and toffee. It's flawless in every way (and yes, do save the bees!). Mouth: a masterstroke. Rarely has a decidedly woody whisky been so delicious without relying heavily on a sherry kick. A marvellous blend of nuts, pistachios, almonds, pecans, with notes of black tea and cigar tobacco. It stays firmly within the realm of an old English club, without veering into the meaty or gamey territory found elsewhere (which we quite like too, by the way). Finish: rather long, balanced, almost fresh, with a focus on tobacco. Hints of mint and fir resin appear towards the end, followed by a note of orangettes as a final flourish. Comments: this doesn’t seem to be one of those NAS blends that merely flaunt an old component (like a cheeky 1928) but are actually quite young on average. There really is a significant amount of very old whisky in here. Oh, and save the bees!
SGP:562 - 92 points. |
That’s a strong start… Well, while we're at it… |
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Ichiro’s ‘World Blended Malt Whisky vol.4’ (57%, OB, for The Ultimate Spirits by Rudder, 3rd fill bourbon barrel, cask #15090, 260 bottles, 2023)
Indeed, this is a true 'world' blend, not a pure Chichibu. Colour: pale gold. Nose: it's very natural and fresh, with lovely notes of morning bread, brioche, and fougasse, accompanied by just a hint of white nougat and a drop of lemon liqueur. There’s also a whisper of star anise and candied fruits, including a touch of coconut that hints at the grain. With water: becomes even more in tune with Nature, the kind that would have pleased both Rousseau and Hume. Well, quite. Some metal polish notes emerge after about 10 minutes. Mouth (neat): it's the young malt that's calling the shots here. There are touches of very malty beer, seeded bread (poppy, sesame), spelt, barley syrup, a bit of lemon, and a hint of grass. With water: delightful herbal teas, hay, barley, grist, and bread notes. Finish: though it's a 3rd fill, I do find a trace of fresh wood (snapped branch), along with a touch of smoke. Comments: an excellent blend, perhaps just a tad reserved.
SGP:351 - 85 points. |
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Ichiro’s Malt & Grain World Blended Whisky (60%, OB, for Chichibu Matsuri 2024, refill peated barrel, cask #14841, 254 bottles, 2024)
Now, this gets a bit tricky and almost circuitous, not to mention tautological—a blend bottled, it seems, for one’s own festival (but the Scots do that all the time). Colour: white wine. Nose: not vastly different from others, a touch rounder, leaning more towards the grain, with coconut and even a hint of pineapple. Chamomile and said fougasse make an appearance. With water: flour, rainwater, sourdough, cake, and fresh herbs. The grain elements become more subdued. Mouth (neat): livelier on the palate, with lemon, fresh herbs, lime zest, and a nod to Jamaican white rum. Rather to my liking, that. With water: the lemony aspect shines beautifully, with a touch of fine green tea, the kind you savour from tiny teapots. We're not talking about pu-ehr here. Finish: of medium length, more on the side of those delicate lemon biscuits they make south of the Alps (and in Corsica too!). Comments: to be honest, I didn't detect much peat, though I must admit I wasn’t particularly hunting for it. For a young blend, it’s quite fantastic.
SGP:452 - 86 points. |
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Chichibu 9 yo 2015/2024 ‘7even Gods of Fortune Edition 5 Fukurokuju’ (61%, OB, 1st fill bourbon barrel, cask #4577, 188 bottles)
Sunglasses might be needed to fully appreciate the label (just joking, folks!). Colour: straw. Nose: the immaculate purity of a great Chichibu. Honestly, one could stop right there. Lemon, apple, clay, barley, fresh bread, and roots—all in perfect proportions. Basta cosi. With water: it becomes more herbal, more austere, chalkier, almost closing up like an oyster. Mouth (neat): I simply adore this. Fat yet zesty, soft yet spicy, with superlative citrus notes. And then there's the barley, holding it all together. With water: sublime, with a touch of honey emerging, adding kindness and softness. We could all use a bit of that, couldn’t we? Finish: long, balanced on the thread that runs from barley to honey, passing through citrus along the way. Comments: you can’t do better at 9 years old. A Chichibu that’s positively Mozartian. I know, one shouldn’t rate a whisky of this age above 90, but here we are.
SGP:561 - 91 points. |
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Chichibu ‘On The Way 2024’ (54.5%, OB, Floor Malted, 1,200 bottles) 
They’ve put together a self-blend of ex-bourbon, ex-wine, and ex-Chibidaru (probably refill Chichibu, I’d wager). I find it a bit odd to go to the trouble of using floor-malted barley only to rest some of it in wine casks, but let’s move on—they surely know what they’re doing. Colour: pale gold. Nose: much rounder than the last one, fruitier, more pastry-like, easier overall, yet still excellent. There’s a lovely, slightly earthy touch and a hint of Chardonnay—though I doubt they’ve actually used Chardonnay casks. With water: notes of bread and oatcakes, snapped branches, and fresh bark. Mouth (neat): of course, it’s very good. Fresh oak makes itself quite known, then comes apple, lemon, grey and green peppers, and twigs. With water: deliciously lively, lemony, with green apple and that familiar honeyed touch emerging. A hint of rather sweet carrot as well. Finish: long, even softer despite the presence of lemon and spices. Comments: you’re quite right, really, we should save the single casks for last.
SGP:561 - 88 points. |
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Chichibu ‘Paris Edition 2024’ (50.5%, OB, for La Maison du Whisky, 2,484 bottles)
As always, the labels are superb, with several variations featuring iconic Parisian landmarks. In this case, it's Notre-Dame, which is nearly fully restored now. That said, this edition includes wine casks, specifically red wine. While it’s true that Paris and red wine are a classic pairing, one might still question the use of these casks for a distillery of ‘Grand Cru’ calibre. It makes sense for a distillery in the third tier of Speyside, but for one of the top 20 in the world? Colour: pale gold. Nose: thankfully, there are no overpowering notes of raspberry, crushed strawberries, or blackcurrant jelly. Instead, it’s fresh barley, pralines, brioche, raisin rolls, mild ale, pink grapefruit, celery, beetroot, and a very light smoke. With water: we enter a realm of damp earth, fallen leaves, potting soil, fresh croissants, and blueberry muffins. Mouth (neat): but of course it’s very good. Lovely bitterness, hints of bell pepper, roots, sweet breads, raisins, honey cookies… It’s even quite charming. With water: now it’s perfect. A nice vegetal smoke—almost like a garden bonfire—and a few currants. Finish: medium length, round, and ultimately quite approachable. Comments: I thought a few times that it might go off track, but it recovered with the agility of a well-driven vintage 911. You know what I mean.
SGP:651 - 89 points. |
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Chichibu 10 yo 2013/2024 (64.4%, OB, LMDW Foundations, 2nd fill bourbon barrel, cask #3079, 140 bottles)
With this one, anything is possible. Colour: straw. Nose: illegal, streng verboten. It’s not just the high ABV, it’s also the extreme abstraction of the aroma profile, purely on fresh bread and green apple. Any simpler, and it would just be a grain of barley, but of course, we love it. With water: crushed slate, green pepper, green apple, then sublime yeasts, extraordinary fresh breads, and dazzling beers… I adore it when the raw ingredients shine through like this. Mouth (neat): (a bit apprehensive) … Absolute perfection, so simple, so obvious. Cereals, apple, earth, lemon, amen. With water: give up, it’s perfection itself, almost to the point of being boring - of course we're joking. The most perfect lemon you could imagine. Finish: long, sharp as a sword, yet as enveloping as a velvet cape (what?). Young wood, leek, green pear, asparagus, and a drop of olive oil right at the end. Comments: everything in here is beautiful, it’s like a late Matisse.
SGP:551 - 92 points. |
We still have quite a bit of Chichibu left, but I'm not sure it would hold up at this stage. We'll probably finish with a different distillery instead... |
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Shizuoka 'Pot Still W imported barley 2024 Edition' (55.5%, OB)
From the wood-fired still, no less. We were quite enamoured with the 2022 edition, which had a certain abstract simplicity about it (WF 89). The mash bill here piques the curiosity, comprising 70% peated malt from Scotland, 20% unpeated Scottish malt, and 10% German brewing malt. And there it is, listed on Amazon Japan… must resist! Colour: pale gold. Nose: right, let’s set dramazon aside and focus. We’ve got apricots bathed in lightly salted honey, with a delicate, vegetal smokiness—garden bonfire, if you will—then fresh panettone, followed by hints of grenadine and orgeat syrup, which make it all the more approachable. With water: ashy notes appear, along with a touch of fruity glue (think of the kind from school days). Mouth (neat): significantly peatier on the palate, with a more massive presence; there’s a green, oily smoke reminiscent of capsicum, bell pepper, and very salty seaweed. It really shifts gears here. With water: it all comes together, the apricots and peaches return without the smoke diminishing one bit. Finish: long and very saline. Comments: quite the journey, this one! We’re loving Shizuoka, which seems completely unfazed by the waning novelty effect that’s caught up with so many other newer distilleries in recent years. Not all newcomers manage that, unfortunately!
SGP:655 - 89 points. |
Very soon, many more Chichibus, Shizuoka, Kanosuke, Mars, Ontake... Stay tuned! |
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October 9, 2024 |
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Some High-Quality Scottish Blends
(Possibly a Half-Botched Tasting)
We'll try to focus on blended malts or super-blends (blended Scotch with a high malt content), as there are all sorts of them, and they're becoming more and more popular. However, we will try to try to avoid the blended malts that aren't truly blended, such as ‘teaspooned malts’. But we may well fail. Let’s see what we find... |
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Johnnie Walker 15 yo ‘Green Label’ (43%, OB, blended malt, +/-2024)
It’s been eight years since we last tasted the Green Label, but it’s always been a favourite. Long considered the Johnnie Walker of choice for malt lovers, and quite right too. Colour: pale gold. Nose: rather fresh, starting with notes of hay, malt, and honey, followed by oranges and a touch of lightly earthy, smoky tobacco. Then come ripe apples, undergrowth, mushrooms, and a gentle smoke. It’s a really lovely nose. Mouth: the 43% suits it perfectly, with the peat much more pronounced on the palate than on the nose. There’s a slightly drying touch (pepper, ashes), and a bit of earthiness. Hints of menthol, eucalyptus, even camphor, followed by more honey and chestnut purée. Very well composed by Diageo’s Mozarts, though it does fade a bit after about fifteen seconds. Finish: shorter than expected but pleasant, fresh, and rather cheerful. Honey and mint. Comments: a really good malt, and at 40-50 Euros, a strong contender for BFYB of the month. This one seems a touch peatier than older batches.
SGP:453 - 85 points. |
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Architectonics (49%, Compass Box, Blended Malt, for LMDW, 1,200 bottles, 2024)
A blend paying homage to the Grande Halle de la Villette in Paris, where Whisky Live has been held for a few years now. It features some of Compass Box’s favourite malts, like Laphroaig and Clynelish. Colour: deep gold. Nose: complex, oily, with toasted hazelnuts to start. Then come smoked sesame, lapsang souchong, beeswax, orange peel, dandelion flower, and Ovaltine. Just a hint of juniper. Mouth: a real balancing act, with many different influences (coastal, charcoal, wax, orchard fruits), yet none overpowering the others, though it’s clearly a ‘peated’ whisky at its core. A touch of lemony liquorice too. Finish: long, with lemon, ashes, apples, and a bit of cedarwood. Hints of gentian and verbena in the aftertaste. Comments: a lovely marriage and almost a full panorama of Scotland. It does borrow some traits from Johnnie Green in my book.
SGP:554 - 87 points. |
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The Cairn 25 yo ‘CRN57°’ (43%, OB, blended malt, LMDW, 2024)
This blended malt is offered by G&M to tide us over until the first whiskies from their new distillery, Cairn, inaugurated in 2022, are available in 2030. As they say, ‘taste tomorrow today’, which I find rather amusing. We might imagine there’s some Benromach in the mix, but that’s purely speculation. Angus absolutely loved the 30-year-old (WF 91). Colour: gold. Nose: beautiful, very Highlands, with notes of gorse, heather, roasted chestnuts, nougat, toasted almonds, and a hint of garam masala and dried figs. There’s also a breath of the forest—moss, ferns, old stumps... Ma-gni-fi-cent. Mouth: they’ve really gone all out to offer a pre-Cairn of top quality. Wonderful old Cointreau, salty touches, thyme honey, amaretti, and walnuts… It almost feels like a blend of just two highly complementary single malts, and you’d swear there’s some Benromach in there. But that’s just my guess… Finish: a gorgeous, honeyed yet firm finish. Nuts, tobacco, chestnuts, and honey. Comments: what’s even more striking is that these 43% ABV seem to be the perfect strength here. I’m not convinced 46 or 50 would have been better.
SGP:552 - 90 points. |
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Enigma 27 yo 1997/2024 (51.8%, Cadenhead, blended malt, bourbon hogsheads, 1,140 bottles)
This series offers a bit of everything—blends, blended malts like this one, and even single malts. Colour: white wine. Nose: starts off lively, lemony, fresh, then softens a bit with macarons and a lovely cassata, alongside pipe tobacco, pinecones, and a few drops of miso. Another very charming nose. With water: the barley and malt return, along with a hint of plasticine and putty. Church candles. Mouth (neat): oh, this is very good! Pink grapefruit, tobacco, soy sauce, horseradish, salty touches… It has a curious Japanese side to it, truly. With water: oh yes! Salt, lemon, polish, grapefruit, slightly green gooseberries, wormwood… Just perfect. Finish: the same, and it lasts for a good while, then appear ripe but not too ripe quinces and mirabelles. Comments: incredibly coherent, you’d think it was a single malt, and not one of the lesser ones at that.
SGP:551 - 89 points. |
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Big Peat’s Finest 8 yo 2016/2024 (46%, Douglas Laing, Provenance, LMDW Foundations, Jamaican Rum Finish)
All right, oops, this is a Big Peat that’s actually an Islay single malt, not a blended malt, finished for two years in Jamaican rum casks. Who hasn't dreamt of pairing Islay with Jamaica like this? And there’s no Captain Haddock on the label either. Colour: very pale white wine. Nose: of course it works. It smells a little like an East Coast malt, but with the Jamaican rum influence, it feels more like something from the South Coast. You know what I mean? Tarmac, olives, oysters, ashes, beach bonfire, lemon, Tiger Balm, and so on. Mouth: simply excellent. Lemon, metal, seawater, olives, oysters, seaweed, grey pepper, saltiness... Finish: long, very fresh, invigorating, heavily peaty, lemony, and with those olives lingering in the aftertaste. Comments: in short, the Jamaican touch seems to have added olives to the Ileach. How amusing, and excellent, but now we’re waiting for a proper trans-blend, like Islay + Jamaica + Mezcal. They could call it ‘Big Heat’.
SGP:567 - 87 points. |
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Red Snake ‘Redneck 127’ (59.6%, Blackadder Raw Cask, bourbon, 261 bottles, 2022)
Oops, this one’s a single malt as well, peated to 20ppm. Everything about it seems improbable, but that’s exactly why we love it. Back to the roots... Oh, and 20ppm—that’s Talisker territory, isn’t it? Colour: white wine. Nose: apples, pears, violets, seaweed, and peat—plus quite a bit of ethanol. So… With water: engine oil, seawater, old boat ropes, brine, crabs, and polish… Mouth (neat): pink grapefruit, grenadine, pears, Szechuan pepper, peat, and indeed, a fair bit of ethanol. With water: strawberries and pepper? Where did that come from? And flambéed bananas… Finish: long, shifting towards citrus but with a medicinal edge as well. Bell pepper and pepper in the aftertaste. Comments: the cask seems to have been very active. What a beast this snake is.
SGP:566 - 86 points. |
One last one for the road. Let's make sure it's a blended malt... |
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Peated Blended Malt 6 yo 2017/2023 (59.7%, Fadandel, 2nd fill oloroso sherry octave finish, cask #200000061, 69 bottles)
You’ve seen the cask number, haven’t you? Now that’s what I’d call ambition, wouldn’t you? Colour: pale gold. Nose: missed the mark again, I’m afraid. If this is a blended malt, I’m a prima ballerina at the Opera de Paris. This is pure peat, diesel fumes, tarry ropes, green apples and lemons, with a touch of ancient granite (think the nearby Kildalton Cross), fireplace ashes, and a splash of Mercurochrome. Perhaps a hint of chocolate, likely from the octave. With water: green apples, varnish, iodine tincture, and a whiff of hairspray. Mouth (neat): here comes that smoked pear and apple combo, with a bit of fir wood, followed by lemon and more iodine tincture. Grey pepper and the feeling of biting into graphite, with a sharp, pleasing bitterness. With water: this is where it shines. Old, very salty fino sherry, lemons, green walnuts, seawater, and sea urchins – the saltiest and most concentrated of all seafood. Finish: very long, very salty. Comments: top stuff, more mature than its age suggests. I’m not usually a fan of octaves, but in a 2nd fill, it can work wonders. Case in point...
SGP:567 - 88 points. |
Well, since we’re delving into the depths of young malts... |
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Seventeen Smoky Stills 6 yo 2017/2024 (50%, Claxton’s Exploration Series, blended malt, oloroso hogshead)
The label offers up some coordinates, let’s have a peek on Google Maps… Ah, but no, those cheeky devils at Claxton’s have put their own HQ there instead! Clever lot. Well, I shan’t bother trying to work out which distilleries have cobbled together 17 stills—let’s move on, shall we? Colour: gold. Nose: cedarwood, ashes, seawater, pickle brine, tar, and brand-new tyres… With water: much the same, though the tyres really take over. Feels like you’ve wandered into a car showroom. Mouth (neat): lovely smoky lemons and brine. Nicely sharp, though quite aperitif-like—it’s one of those that stir up your appetite! With water: excellent, with a fresh burst of citrus, more ash, liquorice, tar, and a touch of seawater. Finish: very long, with a little more pepper. Those new tyres and ashy notes linger right on the finish. Comments: simply very, very good and packed with peat.
SGP:568 – 86 points. |
Alright, that's enough. This whole ‘real-fake blended malts’ business is creating a right mess. Hasta luego. |
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October 8, 2024 |
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A wee selection of Jura whiskies of the highest quality |
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Remember Isle of Jura is #1 in the UK. |
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Jura 16 yo ‘Perspective No.01’ (46.5%, OB, bourbon + oloroso, 2024)
A rather conceptual new release, with ‘labels that are never exactly the same’. Well, at least that’s what I believe I’ve understood. The finishing in oloroso casks lasted four years, so it’s more of a secondary maturation, really. Colour: light gold. Nose: very fruity, easy-going, and rather seductive, with a light muscat-like note, acacia honey, mirabelles, and apricots, followed by a touch of camphor, chlorophyll, and cane sugar. You won’t find any of that slightly ‘dirty’ Jura DNA here, but that’s not a complaint. Mouth: really very good, soft but lively, still easy-going, malty, honeyed, and full of very ripe yellow fruits, then comes the expected walnut, as you’d imagine after four years in an oloroso cask. Finish: medium length, sweet, jammy (plums), with a touch of walnut cake in the aftertaste, and a faint mustardy and smoky edge. That would be the distillate reminding us of where it comes from. Comments: a richer, sweeter Jura than many others. No denying it’s very, very well made.
SGP:641 - 86 points. |
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Jura 1989/2023 (47%, S Spirits Shop Selection, hogshead, cask #1113, 259 bottles)
With a stunning dragon-turtle gracing the label, one wonders if it’s as representative of the liquid inside, which has had nearly 35 years to develop? Worth noting, Jura also made peated whisky in 1989… In fact, the official ‘Rare Vintage’ 1989/2019 was absolutely outstanding (WF 91). Colour: white wine. Nose: classic Jura. Flint, mustard, white flowers, leather, bark, green walnuts, crushed slate, a hint of rubber, fresh vinyl records, bitter oranges… Magnificent! Mouth: oh yes, quintessential Jura. Much drier compared to the new 16-year-old. Devil’s sauce, salt, tobacco, mustard and walnuts, soot, paraffin, wrinkled old apples, bitter oranges, even a slightly fatty oyster... Finish: medium length, with notes of tobacco, leather, walnuts, orange zest, and bitter chocolate. One can only bow in respect. Comments: a magnificent Jura. Wait, 1989 was really thirty-five years ago?
SGP:462 - 90 points. |
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Isle of Jura 30 yo 1994/2024 (46%, Whisky Sponge, Decadent Drinks, refill hogshead, 203 bottles)
The Sponge already had a superb 1991+1994 back in 2021 (WF 91), so expectations are rather high for this one. Colour: white wine. Nose: a greasier take, more in line with a fine white wine, with notes of rhubarb, white flowers, metal polish, basalt, paraffin, and grapefruit. In short, it’s an awesomely classic Jura nose, leaning slightly towards the old-school style. Mouth: peppery, earthy, with coal dust, paraffin, that childhood memory of eating modelling clay, a touch of plaster, honeycomb, grapefruit, and a hint of banana. Everything’s just spot on. Finish: very long, with a fantastic bitterness, orange peel, green pepper, tobacco, and aged mead… Comments: I feel like these incredible old Juras fly a bit under the radar, yet they’re absolutely magnificent, offering a deep and complex aromatic experience. I see from some old notes that I’ve compared them to St. Magdalene before. Yes, that’s exactly it (self-congratulation, there’s nothing worse, S.)
SGP:462 - 91 points. |
Alright, let's finish with some younger ones… |
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Jura 16 yo 2006/2023 (54.2%, Whisky Age, cask #8001643, barrel, 214 bottles)
This one should be rather good too. Colour: white wine. Nose: it’s a bit like the Sponge, but younger and a tad less complex, yet with these lovely notes of aubergine and artichoke, banana skin, porridge, soot, a touch of mustard again, grapefruit, and a few drops of bière de garde. Absolutely nothing to do with the new official 16-year-old, opposite style. With water: a lovely abundance of wet chalk and porridge, with a bit of eucalyptus thrown in. It almost feels like a Trappist whisky – if such a thing were to exist. Mouth (neat): oily, with wax, green pepper, zesty notes, rubber, citrus, soot, and that slightly ‘dirty’ side of a ‘real’ Jura. With water: excellent, with some menthol emerging. Touches of old walnuts that have been left down in the cellar, right between the coal pile and the oil tank. Finish: long, on green apple, paraffin, green pepper, and fruit peelings. A hint of heather honey and a grain of salt in the aftertaste. Comments: a marvellous Jura, very ‘Jura’ indeed (no kidding, S.?).
SGP:562 - 89 points. |
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Isle of Jura 10 yo 2014/2024 (55.6%, Maltbarn, bourbon cask, 263 bottles)
From Maltbarn's latest series, with their always delightful contemporary neo-retro-futurist labels (what?). Colour: straw. Nose: the distillate shines through, with its fermentary character, alongside chalk, mustard, green apple, soot, paraffin, and leather… nothing to complain about! With water: similar, but now with more basalt and a distinct limestone quality, like wet limestone after a rain shower. Mouth (neat): very lively, bursting with lemon, almost like concentrated lemon juice mixed with a splash of seawater and clay. With water: pretty much the same, excellent, with that marvellous saline quality that once again reminds us of a cracking manzanilla. All we need now is a mountain of langostinos con ajo. Finish: long and seriously salty, with just a hint of garlic in the aftertaste. Comments: how lovely is this at only ten years!
SGP:462 - 88 points. |
Like its cousin Fettercairn, Jura is consistently gaining points on WF at the moment… This also demonstrates, in both cases and once more, how independent bottlers can contribute to strengthening the image of a distillery, provided they are allowed to attribute their whiskies to said distillery. |
 Check the index of all Jura we've tasted so far
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October 7, 2024 |
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A small trio of Glenmorangie
Today, we have two relatively new releases from the giraffe park in Tain, Ross-shire, and a small independent bottling that isn't all that secret. A quick question, by the way: if the giraffe is the emblem of Glenmorangie, thanks to its famous long-necked stills, what would be the mascot of Ardbeg? The hippopotamus?
(Glenmorangie) |
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Glenmorangie ‘A Tale of Ice Cream’ (46%, OB, 2024)
I rather enjoyed the ‘Tale of Cake’ (WF 85) and found the ‘Tale of Tokyo’ (WF 88) even more to my taste, but this one comes with the note that it was ‘aged in high vanillin and bourbon casks.’ High-vanillin casks, you say? Well, more seriously, it seems that it’s a specific toasting method that enhances the vanillin content produced by American oak. So, after chocolate malt, here’s vanilla casks. Colour: gold. Nose: I’m mainly getting green tea and coconut, layered over hazelnut cake and some Streusel. You could argue that Streusel could also come filled with vanilla cream. There’s a youthful edge, but the oak knows its place. Mouth: it’s got a bit more bite to it, with a slightly green tannic quality that brings the green tea to the forefront again, followed by spices—cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg—and a touch of slightly rough peach skin. Finally, some freshly pressed oranges with a hint of saffron. Finish: medium length, with a bit of green oak. Bitter oranges linger on the aftertaste. Comments: I think I might have missed that famous high-vanillin, and the ice cream even more so. Still, I find it quite enjoyable, though I believe I preferred the earlier ‘Tale’ releases.
SGP:551 - 82 points. |
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Glenmorangie 16 yo ‘The Nectar’ (46%, OB, bourbon and sweet white wine casks, +/-2024)
We’ve had the pleasure of trying the ‘Nectar d’Or’ in both its NAS and 12-year-old versions, both of which were finished in Sauternes casks. This new 16-year-old has been finished for two years in a medley of sweet wines, including Sauternes, Monbazillac, Moscatel, and Tokaji. It’s interesting to note the recent trend of age statements being pushed upwards, as we’ve seen with the 10-year-old becoming a 12. Colour: light gold. Nose: I find it quite similar to ‘A Tale of the Forest’, just a tad rounder, with more focus on apricots and maple syrup. You’ll notice this difference only grows as the seconds and minutes tick by. Mouth: really sweet, but with some green spices in the background. Up front, we’ve got candied citron, bergamot, and a rather sugary apple juice. So, we’re not straying too deeply into the winey side of things. Finish: medium in length, leaning towards spiced honey with cloves, star anise, ginger, and turmeric. The muscat-like notes amusingly make a late appearance, mingling with a bit of fudge. Comments: this is genuinely lovely. I forgot to mention the rose jelly and soft liquorice in the finish.
SGP: 651 - 85 points. |
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Westport 26 yo 1997/2023 (47.1%, Oxhead Whisky Company for Shelter, hogshead, cask #3301, 183 bottles)
We remember that Westport is the trade name for Glenmorangie that's been ‘teaspooned’, supposedly with a drop of Glen Moray, though Glen Moray was sold to La Martiniquaise back in 2008. One could wonder if they might teaspoon with Ardbeg instead, but surely we’d notice that, wouldn’t we? Colour: straw. Nose: a stunning nose, reminiscent of some official single cask ‘private’ bottlings, with top-notch citrus at the forefront—think pink grapefruit and even blood oranges. There are also hints of blond tobacco, some sweet Loire wine, Chenin Blanc, linden honey, freshly baked blueberry muffins, and artisanal crème de cassis. Absolutely splendid—fresh, lively, and almost refreshing. Mouth: remarkable tension for its age, with fresh mint, green wood, lemon, grapefruit, and once again a touch of cassis. You might even detect a subtle saline note. Finish: medium in length, evoking iced peach tea and still loaded with citrus. The aftertaste turns more herbal, like well-brewed green tea. Comments: the nose is magnificent, though the palate is slightly more restrained, but isn’t that often the way?
SGP: 561 - 87 points. |
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October 6, 2024 |
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Here are a few more random rums
You never get tired of them—they're so varied, these rums (and those spirits that are presented as rum but aren't quite the same, though no one really cares because they're highly profitable for everyone, including gastroenterologists).
A Bellini, champagne with peach purée (Destination Cocktails)
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Naga 'Full Proof' 10 yo 2011 (62.3%, OB, Royaume de Siam, charred American oak, 2,752 bottles, 2022) 
The reference to ‘Royaume de Siam’ on the label lends a slightly colonial air, as Siam became Thailand in 1939, so we’re a bit behind the times here. That said, we did try the Naga at 40%, and it wasn’t half bad (WF 76). Since this 2011 Full Proof, they’ve also released a 2012, so it must be working! It’s also good to see that Thailand now seems to allow higher strengths, which wasn’t the case in the past. Colour: amber. Nose: a lot of bicycle repair glue and fresh varnish at first, then orange liqueur, coconut, and banana, likely from the American oak. Those oranges are rather nice. With water: softer, more on toast, pancakes, corn syrup, and vanilla cake… basically a breakfast rum, ha. Mouth (neat): powerful and very syrupy, all about things made with oranges and mandarins, plus a good bit of cedarwood. With water: more cane, some fir wood, and even exotic wood like amburana. But the citrus still takes the lead. The texture is light behind the alcohol. Finish: not very long, still on orange liqueur and a touch of cane. A faint Cuban note here and there. Comments: we’re far from the top-tier Thai rums like Issan or Chalong Bay, but this is pretty drinkable, preferably over ice.
SGP:630 - 77 points. |
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Distillerie du Galion 3 yo 'Easy Peasy' (56.3%, Swell de Spirit, Martinique, agricole, bourbon barrel, 600 bottles, 2024)
A young rhum vieux that’s ‘Grand Arôme’, meaning it's high in esters. Le Galion also produce rhum traditionnel (column still, molasses-based), but this seems to be pure cane juice. (Update, it is molasses - I doubt you can do Grand Arôme with cane juice). Colour: gold. Nose: as if someone accidentally spilled a canister of pineapple juice mixed with wood varnish in a slightly run-down petrol station. You get the picture. With water: motor oil, mashed bananas, and linoleum. Mouth (neat): a faithful continuation of the nose, so petrol and pineapple, with a hefty dose of salty liquorice. With water: add some seawater and those famous olives we love. Finish: long, with tar showing up and a briny tension that’s always most welcome. Comments: of course age matters, but perhaps less in rum than in whisky. A brilliant young bottle.
SGP:563 - 87 points. |
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Rhum Brun Vieilli 2023 (56.4%, Distillerie de Lyon, Cuvée Collaborative, molasses, +/-2024)
A collaborative cuvée, produced in mainland France by an assembly including Distillerie de Lyon (who also, believe it or not, make cucumber liqueur), along with Caves Gilles Granger and BIM. Rest assured, I doubt it smells of cucumber... Colour: gold. Nose: this reminds me of some artisanal American malts we’ve sampled recently. Pine bud liqueur, sandalwood, wild peppermint, a family-sized pack of salty Scandinavian liquorice, and above all, heaps of camphor. I’ve got a bit of a sore shoulder – I’m sure this incomparable potion (on the nose at least) will sort that out. With water: a rather lovely varnish – let’s say picture varnish and rubber tree sap. Mouth (neat): slightly bonkers, in the vein of an old herbal liqueur made long before the war in some forgotten Central European country. You know the type (maybe). Still packed with resin, camphor, clove, and cumin, but also bitter orange and, oh yes, cane sugar! With water: continues along the same lines, with a touch of violet liquorice as well. Finish: long, staying the course. Comments: it feels like being on an island, but to be fair, Lyon has a sort of peninsula at its heart, between the Saône and Rhône rivers. Though I’m not sure that’s where the distillery is located. In any case, this improbable rum is supremely excellent. Really!
SGP:472 – 87 points. |
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Single Estate French West Indies Rhum 2017/2023 (58.3%, L’Esprit, cask #BB7, 240 bottles)
We’re hoping this might resemble a Saint James from Martinique. Colour: golden amber. Nose: very floral and rather soft, leaving little doubt. Rose petals, jasmine, and lily of the valley, alongside cane honey and acacia honey. In the old days, one might have said it was delightfully feminine. With water: hints of shoe polish emerge, and even a bit of new Tupperware. Poor Tupperware! Mouth (neat): magnificent blood oranges with Timut pepper and an amusing little hoppy side. The rose is back, and so are Turkish delights and lychees. A faint woody/earthy note too. With water: this is its best phase. Cedarwood, incense, citrus zests, and again some rose, along with slightly overripe apple… Finish: not immensely long, rather soft, still very fragrant and floral. A delicately earthy aftertaste. Comments: a little beauty, so far yet so close ‘in spirit’ to the ester bombs that are all the rage these days.
SGP:551 – 88 points. |
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Fiji 22 yo 2001/2022 (59%, Rock & Rhum, 244 bottles)
Vive les Fiji! It's worth noting that this dram has been brought down to 59% with water. One can only wonder what it must have been like before, after 22 years, for the esteemed bottlers to make such a decision. Colour: gold. Nose: straightforward, direct, and honest. Petrol, olives, charcoal, tobacco, and liquorice wood. With water: pickled gherkins and sweet liquorice. Mouth (neat): we love these Fiji rums, and this one even more so, as it's ventured into slightly fruitier territory than usual, with guavas, mangoes, and the ever-present bananas. The rest is dominated by olives and tar. With water: hints of tomatoes, rooibos, lightly smoked tea, and marjoram… Finish: long, similar, less fruity, saline, more matte, almost acrid. Not a trace of sweetness in the aftertaste. Comments: there's a faint ecclesiastical touch towards the end. Amen.
SGP:463 - 90 points. |
Well then, the next one we'll taste out of Christian charity… Help, more PX again! |
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Hampden 2023/2024 ‘Pedro Ximenez’ (62.9%, The Colours of Rum, Jamaica, cask #28, 329 bottles)
This might well be something illegal—1500 to 1600 gr ester/HLPA, they say. Ah, that would be DOK. ‘Aged in Europe’, they add, but I doubt that makes the slightest difference after just one year. Right then, let’s hold tight and dive in quickly… Colour: amber. Nose: if all ex-PX casks were like this… Crayola crayons, tar, incense, cedarwood, black olives, and brake pads. That said, it’s possible the PX has slightly tamed this little monster, but we’ll need water to really judge. With water: hmm, not sure it’s helped much—still those classic Hampden markers of tar, tarmac, carbon, green olives, smoked fish, and sauna oils. Mouth (neat): carbon, tar, pepper, and rubber dissolved in turpentine. You get the picture. With water: ah, there it is, a tiny bit of sweetness creeping in… But no, we’re joking, it’s still wonderfully brutal. Perhaps that hint of dried apricot and the two little raisins duelling in the background do come from the PX. Who knows. Finish: very long, yet somehow not that long (?). Lovely smoky brine. Comments: between us, if there’s one distillery that’s magnificent both in its youth and in its aged versions, it’s this blessed Hampden, which we still can’t seem to fault.
SGP:563 - 89 points. |
We'll finish off with some older Jamaican music then... |
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Clarendon 24 yo 1997/2022 (49.2%, The Colours of Rhum, #13, cask #28, 192 bottles)
This is an MMW (Monymusk Wedderburn), so we're looking at around 300 gr ester/hlpa. Colour: white wine. Nose: completely different from what you might expect, almost light, with early morning rosebuds and an abundance of vineyard peaches, followed by more and more mango. It feels like there's a transmutation of the esters, akin to how peat can evolve in old Laphroaigs. Absolutely delightful, with a tremendous delicacy. But let's not call it 'feminine'—no need for that! Mouth: magnificent. Once again, those vineyard peaches shine through, alongside Sauternes, pinot gris, white raspberries, all laid on a bed of quince, sesame oil and a hint of smoked fish. The mango lurks in the background, ever present. Finish: not immensely long but perfectly balanced with its fruity tones. There's a hint of Bellini, so champagne and puréed peach. Comments: every now and then, a little bottle like this slips by almost unnoticed, only to whisper magnificent stories in your ear.
SGP:652 - 91 points. |
Since we were at Clarendon... |
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Clarendon 40 yo 1984/2024 (64.2%, The Nectar of the Daily Drams, Famille Ricci, Jamaica, 90 bottles)
Clarendon 40 years old, can you believe it! The other 1984s we've had the pleasure of tasting were from the ‘MMW’ marque, so this one might be similar (200-300 grams ester per HLPA). Colour: dark amber. Nose: well, here we are—heaps of varnish and wood glue, petrol too, then we move into black olives and dark tobacco, walnut stain, plenty of charred things (bread, wood, cake), and finally, fermenting fruits like prunes and other near-rotten fruits (those wonderfully overripe bananas we love so much on the nose). With water: lashings of fuel oil, more than enough to heat you through the winter, and brine (olives and anchovies). Mouth (neat): sublime bitterness, it’s as though you’re tasting a mix of walnut stain indeed, with pine resin, pipe tobacco, and some very extreme salmiak. As they say in the Scottish isles, this one blows your hat off. With water: we’re nearing more civilised territory, but it’s still very acetic, salty, tarry, with oysters and even stewed Belgian mussels. Finish: very long, with notes of black garlic and fresh varnish. Still that extreme salmiak at the very end, along with fermented dark tobacco (Italian Toscano cigar). Artichoke, and very, very dark tea. Comments: it seems that even 40 years isn't quite the age of reason for some rums, and all the better for it, if you ask me.
SGP:383 - 91 points.
PS: there is a touch of oak, mind you. |
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Hampden 41 yo 1983/2024 (53.5%, The Nectar of the Daily Drams, Famille Ricci, Jamaica, 90 bottles)
A very high-ester ‘HGML’ marque, standing for ‘Hampden George MacFarquhar Lawson’ (1000-1100 grams ester per HLPA). I'm quite certain this is the oldest Hampden I've knowingly tried. Colour: pure gold. Nose: these rums seem eternal. While the sublime Clarendon was shaped by the wood, this Hampden feels as fresh as a daisy, adorned with all its natural traits—plasticine, new tyres, seaweed, diesel fuel, grapefruit, bitter almonds, carbon dust, and seawater, with just a hint of roasted pineapple and vinaigrette. With water: a touch of chlorine, municipal swimming pool, and a brand-new wetsuit while we’re at it. Ha! Mouth (neat): the most sublime salty liquorice, with a bit of tobacco, olives, natural rubber, and yuzu. That’s it for now, and it’s already plenty. With water: grandiose, much punchier now, with a manzanilla-mezcal hybrid feel, as if aged in a burnt rubber barrel. You know what I mean. The varnish and acetone become more prominent, along with seawater. A bit of pepper and ashes start to prickle, but even that, we adore. Finish: long, on fuel oil, carbon, lemon, seawater, green pepper, black pepper, and salty liquorice. Comments: not so easy, in the end. But the only real flaw with this drop is that you can’t down a pint of it just like that—it demands your full attention. Then again, perhaps that’s for the best. All in all, a bit of a troublemaker.
SGP:464 - 93 points. |
Check the index of all rum we've tasted so far |
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October 5, 2024 |
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Angus's Corner
From our correspondent and skilled taster Angus MacRaild in Scotland |
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Revisiting Glen Mhor
Glen Mhor is not a whisky I’ve tasted for quite a long time. Partly that is because bottlings of it have all but dried up, but also because it’s a name - or arguably the name - that conjures ideas of toughness, austerity and challenge to the taster in whisky. It was always a notoriously robust, hard and often ‘gritty’ make that could be entertaining but also pretty exhausting to taste. At least, that’s my memory of it. I’m delighted to be able to have a line-up of any closed distillery, but especially of Glen Mhor, so I can check and see if this impression still holds after quite a number of years. |
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Glen Mhor 1979/2004 (43%, Gordon & MacPhail) 
Colour: gold. Nose: hohoho, porridge with a midgie’s teaspoon of honey run through it. Also sheep wool, fresh laundry, putty, wood glue, plasticine and some funny mix of old camphor and stale tea. Highly unlikely but not necessarily ‘bad’. Mouth: ok, here I struggle. Very flat, lots of clay, some skimmed milk, stale beer, old bread. Being honest, it’s not so good now. Finish: short, teaish, some cardboard and fleeting impressions of rice wine. Comments: the only way is up! But seriously, a good benchmark for how funny and unlikely these 70s and 80s Glen Mhor could be.
SGP: 441 - 77 points. |
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Glen Mhor 21 yo 1976/1997 (43%, Hart Bros)
Colour: pale gold. Nose: very similar in some respects with these funny low-lying mineral qualities, clay, putty, slightly cardboardy and porridge vibes, but here there’s also some nice green apple notes, flower nectars and vase water. Overall, a little more ‘classical’, as far as Scotch whisky goes. Mouth: ok, textbook grit, gravel, chalk, aspirin, concrete. Like drinking a tower block. Also rather a strong plasticine and even vinyl side. Flirts with soap at times too. Finish: medium, sappy, sharp, slightly acidic and tangy. Gets almost aggressively peppery after a while. Very funny! Comments: absolutely a bottling that demonstrates what made Glen Mhor such a brutalistic and challenging whisky. A whisky almost tailor made for whisky geeks to pour blind for their fellow enthusiasts at the outset of a dramming session. One more point for the apples!
SGP: 251 - 78 points. |
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Glen Mhor 8 yo (57%, Gordon & MacPhail ‘Distillery labels’, 1980s) 
More power, fewer years… Colour: gold. Nose: this is still very brutalistic and rather austere, but it comes with a cereal backbone and sense of dusty waxiness that I find quite appealing. The porridge is also back, this time with a sprinkle of salt. Then it really begins to develop with lamp oil, animal fats, rye bread, stout, chicken broth, lanolin and coal scuttle. Also more of these funny ‘Mhor-esque’ mineral touches that make you think of gravel and plasticine, but here they are more controlled and subtle. With water: ever so slightly tamer, with some subtle honey, wood spices, lightly smoked teas, newspaper ink and mashed potato. Mouth: this is pretty good, there’s clearly some sherry at play, but it seems to only contribute to and magnify this brutality and austerity. It’s very lean, mineral and sharp in profile. Medicines, vapour rubs, tar, ham, pasta water, salt baked vegetables and bouillon powder. With water: at its best I would say, lean, bone dry, full of brittle waxes, peppery warmth, dusty old dried herbs, camphor and a rising tang of farmyard. Finish: really pretty long, still rather superbly peppery, full of camphor, dry waxes, lamp oil again, toolbox cloths and things like white mushroom, petrichor impressions and wet, mossy bark. Comments: hip flask whisky for dour teuchter farmers that own more than five tractors (only two working). Seriously, I would say this is the good side of Glen Mhor, but it’s still a total beast of a dram. Nothing exists today with this kind of profile in my experience.
SGP: 372 - 86 points. |
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Glen Mhor 30 yo 1982/2012 (54.1%, Cadenhead ‘Closed Distilleries’, bourbon, 198 bottles) 
Colour: gold. Nose: I enjoy this a lot more. Thick, syrupy waxes, cooking oils, bone marrow on brown bread, cut grass and crushed flower stems that make me think of chlorophyll. Also, vase water, tiger balm and soot. A glimmer of mead in the background too. With water: vase water, oat milk, plain crackers and… a kiss of silage! Mouth: aaaaand, we’re back! Plasticine, camphor, slightly stale but salty butter, more bone marrow, suet, bouillon, crushed parsley, mashed parsnip and yeasty sourdough. Citric acidity, low lying waxes, more cooking oils and some paraffin. With water: sharp green apple, more fruit acids, gets tighter, sharper and generally more nervous. Old olive oil, lemon balm, chalk and aspirin. Can Glen Mhor cure its own headaches? Comments: I believe Glen Mhor may possess the power to kindle masochism, because I rather enjoy this one. Now, technically speaking, it’s still all over the place, but the fun factor is very high.
SGP: 362 - 81 points. |
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Glen Mhor 30 yo 1975/2005 (51.2%, Glenkeir Treasures, 270 bottles)
This bottling series really takes me back to being at Uni in Glasgow from 2003-2007 (Film & TV studies, in case you were asking). Colour: bright straw. Nose: farmyard cider, wee inflections of silage, smoked teas and smoked beers, coal scuttle and a slowly emerging waxy side. Also more of these crushed flower stem and vase water vibes. With water: banana bread, olive oil, slightly ‘off’ waxes, wild garlic and further grassy and beery ‘stuff’. Mouth: very dry, sappy, peppery and with a sharp medicinal streak that makes me wonder if this wasn’t from an ex-peater cask? Very tough and back on austerity up to 11. Loads of limestone, concrete, graphite with funky notes of pickled tarragon and mashed turnip! With water: disjointed and rather all over the place, some low lying feelings of peat, some medicine, some sour herbal notes, yoghurt, aniseed, beer once again and stale malt. Finish: medium, arid, gritty, austere and with some mashed veg and cereals. Comments: a tricky one in that there are elements I really quite enjoy, but the whole is really quite all over the place and discombobulating. Like five whiskies stitched together by a one-armed lunatic. SGP: 263 - 77 points.
This bottling series really takes me back to being at Uni in Glasgow from 2003-2007 (Film & TV studies, in case you were asking). Colour: bright straw. Nose: farmyard cider, wee inflections of silage, smoked teas and smoked beers, coal scuttle and a slowly emerging waxy side. Also more of these crushed flower stem and vase water vibes. With water: banana bread, olive oil, slightly ‘off’ waxes, wild garlic and further grassy and beery ‘stuff’. Mouth: very dry, sappy, peppery and with a sharp medicinal streak that makes me wonder if this wasn’t from an ex-peater cask? Very tough and back on austerity up to 11. Loads of limestone, concrete, graphite with funky notes of pickled tarragon and mashed turnip! With water: disjointed and rather all over the place, some low lying feelings of peat, some medicine, some sour herbal notes, yoghurt, aniseed, beer once again and stale malt. Finish: medium, arid, gritty, austere and with some mashed veg and cereals. Comments: a tricky one in that there are elements I really quite enjoy, but the whole is really quite all over the place and discombobulating. Like five whiskies stitched together by a one-armed lunatic.
SGP: 263 - 77 points. |
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Let’s try to show a different side of Glen Mhor with this last one… |
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Glen Mhor 30 yo 1967/1997 (60.1%, Gordon & MacPhail for 30th Anniversary of Barmetro, sherry, 199 bottles)
A famous bottling! Colour: mahogany. Nose: another universe! An unctuous and powerful sherry, very leathery, mineral and slightly animalistic with furs, old pinot noir and the most beautiful cured meats. There are also wonderful fruity details such as spiced marmalades, some very old Cointreau, figs in syrup and marzipan. Pretty stunning! With water: it’s funny, you even get a sense of that Glen Mhor concrete and austerity beneath all these wonderful wood saps, fir resins, ointments and precious hardwoods. Huge whisky! Mouth: dominating and extremely powerful but still controlled and with hugely impressive gamey and umami notes. Drenched in Maggi, pepper sauce, Serrano ham, anchovy paste and forest mushrooms. Also gathers more sticky dark fruit characteristics, as it did on the nose, the more it develops. With water: goes really towards camphor, shoe polish, booze-filled dark chocolates, bitter marmalade with coriander seeds and winter mulling spices. The power never wanes. Finish: very long! Bitterly herbal, with hints of salted liquorice, tar extracts, wintergreen, sultanas and clove. Comments: the unstoppable force of an amazing old school sherry cask meets the immovable object that was Glen Mhor distillate. The result is a brilliant but extremely powerful and monolithic whisky. You could eat sixteen bowls of porridge, arm yourself with twelve magnums of Highland Spring, wear a bandolier of pipettes and this wee beastie would still defeat you in tasting battle at the end of the day!
SGP: 562 - 93 points. |
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It’s certainly true that there are older Glen Mhors, from the 1960s and earlier production eras, that can be really spellbinding. They tend to sit much more within that typical, old style, ‘Highland’ profile of immensely fat, charismatic, distillate driven whiskies. I’m really thinking about these old, young official bottlings under the Charles MacKinlay labels (WF94 for one such example). Quite what happened from around the late 1960s onwards at Glen Mhor, I just couldn’t tell you, but it seems the 1970s and 1980s really specialised in this hyper-austere and pretty ‘whacky’ profile of distillate. It’s a great example of how not all old-style whiskies were necessarily better, or more technically impressive, than modern examples. It’s true that almost all whiskies made in Scotland today are technically better and easier to drink than the Glen Mhors we tasted today, but I would say that not so many are as ‘off the wall’ and entertaining. Whiskies like Glen Mhor contributed to a much more diverse, varied and less homogenised whisky landscape in their day. It may not look like it from the scores, but I really enjoyed today’s wee session. |
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Heartfelt thanks to Enrico, Phil T and Jason! |
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October 4, 2024 |
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A little biofuel.
I mean, grain whiskies
We used to call them maltless blends, but nowadays there's a certain snobbery in favouring grain whiskies, a bit like our ancestors who would slum it in the shady parts of big cities. Admittedly, there are some good and even awesome grains, but only if they’ve spent at least 30 years in top-quality casks, ideally the very best sherry casks. But of course, I'm open to changing my mind. |
North of Scotland, 1958-1980.
(clackmannanshire.scot) |
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North of Scotland 1964/1981 (100° proof UK, George Strachan, cask #37526, 5cl) 
Aka Alloa, also home of Strathmore Malt until 1959. Closed in 1980. We tasted this some fifteen years ago, but A. it wasn’t great, B. it was from a full bottle, and C. this one’s a miniature that’s just surfaced from the cellar. And D. North of Scotland has become exceedingly rare. Colour: gold. Nose: well, it’s still not great. Supermarket coconut liqueur, wood glue, vanillin, and that’s about the extent of it. Now, when tasting from a miniature, it’s important to ensure the fill level is good, the liquid remains clear, and there’s no sign of that dreadful lacquer collectors often use to 'seal' these mini-bottles. Anyway, not great. With water: vanilla syrup, cane sugar syrup, and honestly, cheap rum. Mouth (neat): it’s alright, with vanilla and coconut, though there’s a soapy rose note lurking about. Meh. With water: more of the same. Finish: medium length, with neutral and sugary flavours. Comments: I’m not sure if North of Scotland used high multi-column stills like Dumbarton, but it likely produced something rather neutral. I reckon my 78 points in 2009 were the result of an overly generous mood.
SGP:520 - 59 points. |
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North British 34 yo 1989/2024 (43.7%, Liquid Treasures, bourbon barrel, 15th anniversary)
Now, let’s be clear: North British and North of Scotland are not the same thing (see, Whiskyfun does come in handy). Colour: straw. Nose: much better. Yellow flowers, gorse, dandelion, acacia honey, acacia blossoms, and freshly squeezed orange juice, followed by some very young first-flush tea, silver needles, and even a touch of fried rice. Mouth: there’s still that slightly ‘empty’ quality you get with grain whisky, but here the floral side and notes of small apples, jujubes, sorb berries, and medlars add a bit of complexity we won’t deny. There’s also a bit of tangerine in the mix. Finish: not long, but pleasantly sweet. Reminds me of Havana Club from the 1960s. Comments: what can I say, it’s no Port Ellen, but for grain whisky, it’s certainly at the top of the ladder. Or let’s say, the second rung.
SGP:630 - 82 points. |
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Invergordon 27 yo 1997/2024 (52.2%, Dràm Mor, refill bourbon barrel, cask #300709, 218 bottles)
I’ve always found Invergordon to have a bit more texture, perhaps even some extra richness compared to other Scottish grains, though I’ve never really dug into why. Next time I see Sweet Richard P., I’ll have to ask. Colour: white wine. Nose: indeed, sunflower oil, peanut oil, toasted bread, plantain bananas, a bit of engine grease, and even a hint of artichoke… All aromas you wouldn’t typically expect in a grain whisky. With water: a bit of barbecue bacon—am I dreaming? Mouth (neat): it’s as light as a grain should be, but there’s a touch of the liveliness you’d associate with a malt. Apples, lemons. The structure is still a bit fragile, though. With water: barley and agave syrups, vanilla, and apple juice. The texture remains light, with faint touches of pineapple. Finish: rather short, sweet, and liqueur-like. Coconut. Comments: it’s a good grain, no doubt about that, but this isn’t Port Ellen either.
SGP:630 - 80 points. |
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Port Dundas 23 yo 2000/2024 (62.2%, Frank McHardy, Signature Reserve, 270 bottles)
I find it rather amusing that the legendary Frank McHardy, who helped transform a small, forgotten distillery in Campbeltown into perhaps the only 1er Grand Cru of Scotch, would choose to bottle grain whiskies under his name—grains being, in essence, the complete opposite of what Springbank stands for. Colour: straw. Nose: varnish and tinned peaches. It’s very soft and quite muted, despite the hefty 62.2%. With water: lemonade, 7up, and a faint chalky note. Mouth (neat): ah, here it opens up a bit more. Lemon juice, sauvignon blanc, apricot, white peach juice, sugar syrup… With water: no real change, but it’s rather nice. Apricot and peach syrup. Finish: predictably short, but sweet, cheerful, and pleasant, despite a late arrival of coconut milk. Comments: Frank McHardy is Jimmy Page for whisky lovers like me. To be honest, these grains would score around 75 points in their basic versions—that is, not carefully selected by an undisputed legend like him. But still, it’s grain whisky.
SGP:630 - 82 points. |
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